American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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redm18 said:
Did this today as my first all grain and third batch ever. Got about 3 gallons on my stovetop with a brew in a bag. Got about 72% efficiency with a final gravity about 1.046. I had to use a bit more 2 row since I didn't have quite enough Vienna. I wonder if I ground my grain too fine as the finished wort was quite cloudy. I hope it settles out.
Tasted the wort was bitter and sweet should be good.
Click to expand...

No worries. It will, just let it sit for a month.
 
As a follow up I made post #1712 about 10 days ago, my first Bee Cave brew. It fermented with gusto, and seemed to finish right at 7 days. It is already probably the most clear and brilliant all grain beer I have made.

The Ferm was done Fri or Sat as far as I could tell. I moved it to the garage today to cold crash during the arctic front coming through MO the next day or so. Out of habit I tossed in some gelatin finings, absolutely unnecessary as it is already crystal clear. I think I this beer may suck in all all known light in the universe, and create a Black Ale-Hole. If that happens, I am to blame. Actually blame EdWort because I will be at the epicenter of the inverse-light destruction phenomena and perhaps he will survive.

Man this brew is looking and smelling really fantastic, hope I live long enough to drink it.

Oh, almost forget to ask... Should I be worried ? Is this The Infection or a just simple light-wave apocalypse? My beer should not beer this clear. I fear my yeast cells have been transported to another dimension.
 
Should post my tasting notes I guess.

Drinking after 3 weeks in the bottle, and it's quite tasty. I wanted a sessionable beer, and I followed the recipe verbatim. It's a great beer, but I'm a hophead, so I think next time I would dry-hop with some Cascade or Centennial. My non hophead friends think it's great.

Thanks Ed.
 
Kayos said:
@ R8RFAN: You have a very different way of brewing doing it over 3 days. You also are not getting your grain up to temp when you are sparging. You need to be closer to 170 (168 actually), not just the mash temp. That will definitely affect your efficiency. You are also VERY prone to infection if you let the wort cool and not aerate or add the yeast until another day. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to help.......
Click to expand...

I used 5.2 for the first time this weekend... My efficiency went up from 64% to 73%....

As far as the three day thing goes.. I have never had infection.. You have no idea how anal I am with the sanitizing...

As things get streamlined, I'm sure I can speed things up.. but I do what I can with the energy ad time I have... I'm getting to the age where energy is definitely not what it used to be...

That being said.. I did a brew marathon yesterday... started off, transferring two batches into kegs, then cleaned the fermenters for use, and mashed, and then brewed.. 9 hours in total, and I was sore and tired this morning... I was sick all of last week and not feeling well enough to start the process on friday or saturday, so I did the whole mess on sunday...

I've got the boil thing down pretty god now that I have my PMBS operational... So it's unlikely I'll be waiting till the next day to pitch yeast anymore.. But the mash thing is still clunky for me..

What could possibly happen to the wort over night, that an hour of boiling won't kill?
 
I brewed this for the first time on January 22nd, it finished fermenting in six days!! I transfered to my carboy on Saturday because I needed my fermentor/bottling bucket to bottle a Jubleale that just finished dry hopping, 8.7ABV hydro sample was awesome!! I really need to get another fermenting bucket. While it was sitting in the carboy I could see it clearing but was still a bit hazy so I added some gelatin finings. Today I came home from work and could not believe the clarity and all of the extra stuff sitting on the bottom. Bottling this one up on Friday and then going to brew the Bee Cave Kolsch, these two are going to be my house beers, and I haven't even tried them carbonated and cold!!! Thanks EdWort for the awesome recipies, you are the man!!!
 
r8rphan said:
What could possibly happen to the wort over night, that an hour of boiling won't kill?
Click to expand...

I thought you were boiling one day, then aerating and pitching the yeast the next. I misunderstood that you said you mash one day then boil, cool and pitch the next. If that's the case.....go for it :mug:
 
Yeah, I did that one time when the brew day went bad.. Fought through it and was too tired and pissed to deal with it, especially seeing as I over cooled the wort, and needed to let it sit at room temp over night to warm up enough to pitch the yeast..

But there was a good several inch thick layer of star san foam sitting on top of the wort when I put the sanitized stoppers in the carboys... I'm sure that had to help protect it... I aerated just before I pitched the yeast (about16 hrs later)...

Anyways, I enjoyed the two kegs of IPA and noticed no problems with taste or whatever..

Once I get the mash thing streamlined, I'm sure it will become a 4-5 hour process that is stress free and straight forward enough to do in my sleep...
 
I plan on brewing a 10G batch of this for my son's first birthday party (he likes to drink, what can i say?), and I need some advice on hops. I have about 5 - 5.5 oz of Fuggles in the freezer for about a year that I would like to use up. I plugged numbers into Beersmith and it said that now my 4.6%AA Fuggles are now more like 3.8%. So, I could do 3oz for the first addition and then follow along (1oz, .5oz, .5oz) but then I'm looking at around 27IBU. Should I get an oz or so of higher AA hop to use in the beginning and use some extra Fuggle at the end for aroma, or should I use more Fuggle in the beginning and then get a newer aroma hop for the end? Or just leave things the way they are and leave it with the low IBU?
 
Drank a few glasses of this last nite... Pretty dang pleased..

Like I said earlier when I tasted the hydro sample.. It reminds me of fosters bitter.. Been a few years since I drank any, but it's similar to what I remember...

I fermented around 62-63 degrees, so that probably added to the lager like characteristic of this beer.. even has that initial slight metallic tone in the aftertaste like fosters..

When I first started home brewing and dreamt of the possibilities, I had been buying commercial kegs of fosters, heinekin, and stone... I hoped to someday have three taps with home made clones of each...

Well, I think I just found an ale version of the fosters (close enough)... Gonna be trying out the stone clone recipe that EdWort used in a week or two.. Now, if I can just find an ale that mimics the light euro/german lagers of the heinekin/grolsh/becks style, I may not have ever even mess with lagers...

Not to mention the fact that I've already made several beers that are not like any of those targeted, that I love also..

Ordered three perlicks and shanks from AHS tuesday.. so I'm well on my way!

Thanks Ed for the great recipe! I'll be making more of this one!
:mug:
 
Hi!
I brewed this today! Or, kinda. I wanted to make it as close to the original as possible, to have a base recipe for developing my own house pale ale, but ended up deviating a bit from the original. Since I didn't do a full boil (boiled 4 gals), I used 1 oz Centennial for bittering, and then Cascade all the way through, but I upped the amounts slightly. BeerSmith calculated the IBU to be 38-39, so I hope it'll match. And my LHBS here in Norway is ****ty, and I haven't gotten into partial mashing yet (this was my 6th batch), so I substituted the Vienna for 1 lb of medium DME. I know it's not the same, but I hope it'll turn out a good beer anyway! :mug: For crystal malt I used my homemade crystal, which I don't really know the Lovibond of... - the various "make your own crystal" instructions I found were confusing - but I think it's approx 10-40 L... I don't really know what 10 or 40 L crystal is supposed to look/taste/smell like, since I'm so new to this hobby. But we'll see! :D

But the brewing went oh so smoooth!! No ****-ups! Finally!
Now let's just hope the Nottingham yeasties are happy with their new home!

OG ended up a bit high at 1.056, which I think will be great.

I named this brew (and effectively my house ale) "Helter Skelter" since I had this song on my mind today for some strange reason, and it seemed to fit this beer quite well. And it's lyrics fit nicely for a homebrewer in many ways I think!
"I'm coming down fast, but I'm miles above you!" :rockin: :rockin:
(i'm thinking this beer will go down fast, and was fast to make, while being miles above macrobrewery crap!)

Thanks & good night to Ed & everyone! :drunk:
 
this is up next to brew this weekend. down to 1, 5 gallon corny left in the cooler.

question for Ed Wort, if you read this. had you thought of increasing the amount of vienna to say 50/50 vienna/2-row ??
 
Kegged this last night after the Super Bowl had finished. The hydro sample tasted lovely. I fermented this around the 62-64 degree mark. I am really looking forward to getting this carbed up and tapped!
 
Made my own partial mash version of this on January 18th and brought a 5 gallon keg over to a Super Bowl party, the thing disappeared by the beginning of halftime! Had to do some quick calculations at the store so this is what I can remember

3.3 LME Muntons Light
3.6 lbs 2-row
2 lbs Vienna
0.5 lb Crystal Malt

Hops were exactly the same. And used WLP001

Ran a batch sparge and I guess our efficiency was unusually high, we had to add water to increase our total up to 5 gallons after we had measured the gravity. So estimated 1.066 fermented out to 1.011. Came out absolutely delicious, cheers!
 
man... this is one seriously tasty pale ale. I made mine with my first-year homegrown cascades and nuggets. deeeeelicious. goes down so smoothly, has some almost lager-like qualities to it. That Vienna malt character comes through so nicely. Great clarity and color, too. I will definitely be making another batch in time for the heat of summer.


:mug:
 
platypotamus said:
man... this is one seriously tasty pale ale. I made mine with my first-year homegrown cascades and nuggets. deeeeelicious. goes down so smoothly, has some almost lager-like qualities to it. That Vienna malt character comes through so nicely. Great clarity and color, too. I will definitely be making another batch in time for the heat of summer.


:mug:
Click to expand...

I also got serious lager qualities out of mine. So next I will be making this again but with noble hops, heavy on the spalt and mittelfrueh.
 
018.jpg


Here is mine. Wife had a glass tonight and gave it glowing reviews. Excellent brew!
 
Looks delicious! My take, extract version, done pretty much by the book, except not using Vienna, and using Centennial for bittering, is now 13 days in the primary. Took a hydrometer test yesterday, it was at 1.014 and tasted great (albeit green)! Wonderful hop aroma!

Question: I'm a newbie. How much more hop aroma will dryhopping with, say, 1/2 oz of cascade, give? If that's possible to describe? Will my BMC drinking friends still like it? I myself love a well-hopped beer, but I also want to serve this to my friends and not scare them away with too much hops. (On the other hand, I served them a great microbrew IPA once which they dug very much, so maybe I should stop worrying and hope they'll learn to love the hop bomb?) (Not that this will be a hop bomb, I just couldn't help the Dr. Strangelove reference ;) )
 
I, like many here, will be making this as my first all grain batch and I'm brewing this weekend.

I picked up the ingredients today, and the Cascade hops at AHS have a lower alpha acid rating than the ones in the recipe. Instead of the 6.6% Ed Wort used, these are 5%.

I found a thread about how to adjust the amount of hops needed based on different per cent alphas, and I just want run my numbers by everyone here.

If I'm correct, I need to increase the the hops at the start of the boil from 1 oz to 1.32 oz (6.6/5=1.32). Does this sound right?

I understand how this applies to the bittering hops, but I'm less clear about applying the same correction to all the other hops. Do I need to increase the amount of hops for each addition?

I suspect that I could just use software to get to the correct answer and while I have downloaded Beersmith, I'm still trying to figure it out.

Other than adjusting the amount of hops, I'm doing this recipe as first published.

-peabody304
 
In Beersmith (assuming you have entered your recipe), you can literally just double-click on your hops additions and then change the timing on them. this will automatically calculate the alpha% changes for your batch.

one thing you could try also is to go with a 90 minute boil and move your bittering addition to 90min.
 
My version of this which is almost the same but lower OG so lower ABV (3.1%). It's a tester for a batch for my brother-in-law's wedding who prefers the "light" stuff.

doormat.jpg
 
Looks pretty yummy, a Quaffer Pale ale. I like it! Did you adjust your hops for the lower OG?
 
EricT said:
Looks pretty yummy, a Quaffer Pale ale. I like it! Did you adjust your hops for the lower OG?
Click to expand...

Yes. I have it at about 35 IBUs. I have to say that it has serious lager characteristics which is why I am trying another tester with noble hops to see how that goes.
 
So I just drew my last glass of this from the keg.. fortunately, I had a second keg of it ready to go... So I just put it in Ms Keggy and under pressure..

I'm loving this whole pipeline concept.. and the new perlick equipped 3 faucet box is icing on the cake! Big thick sweet ole icing...

:mug:
 
I'm brewing this recipe tomorrow and I've already encountered a little dilemma...
I ordered 2 ounces of cascades but they are only 5.00%AA. When entered into Beer Smith, my IBU's only meet 26. I have an ounce of centennial and I was thinking I could add an ounce at 60 minutes to get me around 40? Good idea?
 
ErieShores said:
I'm brewing this recipe tomorrow and I've already encountered a little dilemma...
I ordered 2 ounces of cascades but they are only 5.00%AA. When entered into Beer Smith, my IBU's only meet 26. I have an ounce of centennial and I was thinking I could add an ounce at 60 minutes to get me around 40? Good idea?
Click to expand...

That should be fine, Its just for bittering anyway.
 
I'm brewing this tomorrow morning as well and just realized the same thing with the hops being at 5%. Someone mentioned a 90min boil. Would that work without changing the total amount of hops? Can't exactly go pick any more than the 2oz I have on hand now.
 
Brewed it yesterday and ended up getting much better than expected efficiency on my partial mash than expected (testing my new 5gal igloo cooler again).

I did a large Partial Mash with 3.5lbs 2-row, 2.25 lbs Vienna, and .5lbs 10L. After mashing I ended up with about 1.047 pre boil gravity for a 4 gallon boil, so I added 2 lbs of DME and after topping off to 5 gallons after the boil I ended up with 1.050. Close enough for me and it was also the best tasting wort I've had, normally I really don't like the unfermented beer all that much.
 
I brewed this yesterday. I changed it just a bit. I subbed out about 1/4 of the Extra Pale LME and replaced it with Pale Ale Malt, and did all vienna as malt not extract. I also added one extra hop addition.

I used dry yeast, Notty. The thing is fermenting like a beast today. It is very happily bubbling away. I am trying to find a good pale ale for the Lady, and this seemed like a good base to start with. Thanks for posting it.
 
Just dropped 11 gallons of this in the fermentor. Used Centennial for the 60 minute bittering, my current stock of Cascade is low at 5% AA.
 
I just brewed this as my first attempt at All Grain. I pretty much did it as the recipe is written except I am using Safale 04 yeast.

Below is my procedure. I was surprised at my efficiency. FG was 1.060 into the ale pale. I wound up just a little over 80%

I am using a 7.5 gallon turkey fryer. It also came with a seafood strainer basket. I lined my strainer basket with a nylon bag.

I measured 5 gallons of water into the pot and brought it up to around 160.

I then stirred in my grain. The temp dropped to right below 150F. I ran the gas flame on low for about 5 minutes until it hit 152F, then turned it off and covered the pot for an hour. I stirred the grain 3 times and had to run the flame for a couple of minutes about halfway through. It only had a 2-3 degree swing the entire mash period.

I then lifted the strainer basket out and let it drain into the boil kettle. I heated 1.5 gallons of water on my stove to 180F and sat the grain bag in that for 10 minutes while I heated the wort to 170F.

I then poured the smaller kettle into my big one. That gave me about 6.5 gallons for my boil. When the temp of the wort hit 170 I tea bagged the grain it a few times, let it drain and started the boil.

I was surprised my gravity was so high. Next time I will go with a smaller grain bill.

Anyone see any problems with my procedure
 
r8rphan said:
Now, if I can just find an ale that mimics the light euro/german lagers of the heinekin/grolsh/becks style, I may not have ever even mess with lagers...
Click to expand...

Try my Kolsch recipe. Be sure to boil 90 minutes and give it time to ferment 2 week min. It ferments out dry and crisp and the hops give it a Bitburger Pils taste.
 
Don't know if I've ever tried a Kolsch.. What is a popular brand kolsch that I might be able to buy at liquor barn so as to try out a beer representative of the style?...
 
Don't know if I've ever tried a Kolsch

I had never tried a kolsch - I brewed Ed's version - teh family and SWMBO loved it. It'll be brewed again w/in teh next month as teh keg spat at me last night. Likewise the Bee Cave Haus Pale.
 
a_w_taylor said:
Don't know if I've ever tried a Kolsch

I had never tried a kolsch - I brewed Ed's version - teh family and SWMBO loved it. It'll be brewed again w/in teh next month as teh keg spat at me last night. Likewise the Bee Cave Haus Pale.
Click to expand...

If you can find Gaffel, that's my idea of a quintessential kolsch. It's light, has good balance with the tiniest straightforward malt flavor, and I can drink 6 of these with a smile on a summer day.

FYI kolsch is an ale that gets lagered at low temps at the end.
 
Finished brewing this a couple hours ago, and this was my first all grain. It went better than i expected. Nailed my mash temp and only lost 2 degrees over the hour. I calculated a 79% efficiency too. I cant wait to try it!
 

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