BCS Control panel owners

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poptarts

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Is there anything you wish you added to your panel or anything you never use on it. Im about to build one and am thinking

main power on/off
pumps on/off/auto
valves on/hold/auto
elements auto/off
and buzzer

anything I should add / remove / change? anything you wish you did differently?
 
I've ran my BCS for years without ever having a panel. If I need to prime a pump, I just pause and resume the process (as opposed to having a switch to turn the pump off and back on). I can kill the main power at the wall from the GFCI outlet if needed. I've never needed to manually control the valves other than doing it from the computer interface.

Having said that, I do sometimes think about making a control panel with switches just for the heck of it, but it's not high on my list of priorities. I also just finished making a new control panel for my new (in progress) brew stand. This control panel houses the BCS, relay boards and wire distribution, but it has no switches. It is mounted under my stand. If I do create a manual switch panel for it, I will be doing it in such a way that I can still run the system without it.
 
Awesome that's what I want to hear. My goal is very close to full auto so the more hands off the better. Your system is insane I'm shocked you are changing it.
 
This is my layout, honestly now that I am getting my processes dialed in, I basically only use the input (for the states that I have set as manual interaction) a few times during brew day.
I will be adding automated valves soon, but do not plan to add manual switches at all for those.
 
do you ever do anything but off and auto on your element? Is off for the alarm needed?
 
No, usually my elements are either off or auto. I would say no, it's not needed for the alarm if you set your alarms to be "short" in the BCS, meaning they do not need interaction, they will only alert for a few seconds. I do actually use the alarm in "loop" (meaning it manually needs to be shut off) for hose swaps, etc. These can also be dismissed by the GUI interface so you would not have to have a manual switch for it.
When I brew I have the GUI up on an ipad, but just to monitor temps/processes really and do not interact with the processes much. I did at first but once I got my processes dialed in, I found I didn't need to interact as much.
 
awesome, thanks for the feedback. Im pretty stoked to become a BCS family member. I got switches for my pumps but not super sure they are needed. I was thinking it would be nice to have the ability to manually open to prime a pump or for cleaning and draining and drying but in all reality i will probably have those set as processes on the bcs and wont use them much. My panel is stupid huge though so might as well toss some stuff up on it I guess.
 
Following your build!
I do use my pump switch on occasion for priming, etc. I have a cleaning process setup as well. I love the look of lights/switches and that is mainly the reason I have them! :)
 
I built my system with the "unknown future" in mind. Therefore, I wanted the interface to be as soft as possible, and of course this is where the BCS fits nicely. I committed to using only interface hardware that was absolutely necessary. So mine has a switch for power, an E-stop to cut power to high voltage devices, a main power light, an alarm light/buzzer, and two element lights. That's all.

This greatly simplifies the wiring, reduces hardware, reduces space, and makes it more future proof. For example, I am just adding electric valves - no big deal as I just wore them and enable them in BCS, and they show up in the interface.

-BD
 
Yea I think my panel is going to have like 20 xlr connectors and 8 110 plugs for the same reason.
 
Mine is going to be fired up hopefully on Monday if all goes well, for a test and clean of new equipment. I bought the electric brewing supply 50a w/462. I cannot really answer directly the questions posed about features yet as I haven't used mine. That said, I am looking for an automated HLT fill with float switches and an electromechanical ball valve that opens when voltage is applied, connected to my RO tank, with float switches to signal the BCS when it has filled to turn off the valve. Then I could program to begin heating so it's ready to dough in on brew day mornings. I would then also be interested in how I might prime the pump for recirculation, or else simply eave a probe in the HLT tank rather than the recirculation pathway. Other automations I haven't really thought of yet.
The 462 has more connections so I could expand as I dream about other processes I might like to control, perhaps even unrelated to brewing, such as controlling a dry cure chamber temp.
TD.
 
im going to be controlling my 2 ferm chambers with my panel I know that for sure. As for priming, im going bottom drain keggles so hopefully that just takes care of it all by itself. You can check out my build thread for pics and current status if you care, have a decent amount of float switch action planned as well.
 
I'll check your setup out, if I haven't before.
I have a separate BCS panel for ferment tanks. Not sure what I'll end up using any of the additional 462 features for if anything, but I figured it wasn't much more money and might as well go with it. Would be nice to get it to brew some coffee, turn on the tv and AC so that was waiting for my arrival on brew day too!
Oh, any TC float switches you've found?
 
Im making my own tc float switches.
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Are those floats going to be pushed into off position by wort flowing when pumps are on? Got a shot of the TC float by itself? Sorry to hijack.
(Oops. Me just realizing that I never measured my sink to see if new kettles will fit or not for cleanup.)
How is work on the ginormous panel coming along?

TD
 
I hope they will not. They have a decent amount of space on either side so I hope the flow is not enough but I have yet to do a test. Back up plan is to get a 2" to 1" tri clamp adapter and some npt caps that should back them up enough so they dont stick out into the tee.
 
Is there anything you wish you added to your panel or anything you never use on it. Im about to build one and am thinking



main power on/off

pumps on/off/auto

valves on/hold/auto

elements auto/off

and buzzer



anything I should add / remove / change? anything you wish you did differently?


I made my panel for use with the BCS. I didn't consider at the time that I would possibly want to use the control panel without the BCS, so it was wired to use the 5V signals from the BCS. Without the BCS connected, I don't have the 5V power to the switches, so I cannot switch the pump, for example. I don't see a need for me to use the panel without the BCS though, so I guess it's ok.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1447783865.362781.jpg

I use an Ethernet connector connected to my outs from the BCS. I use a phone connector for the temp probe inputs. The temp wires connect inside the control panel to the BCS jack.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1447783876.577693.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1447783886.246635.jpg



Edit: it appears the pics came thru after all.
 
Oh, another thing. I apparently didn't use enough JB-Weld to hold the components down inside the panel. After a few years, several heatsinks, SSRs, etc have come loose and I need to redo the JB-Weld.

What is a good adhesive to hold components to the plastic control panel case? JB-Weld? Maybe I just didn't use enough.
 
Oh, another thing. I apparently didn't use enough JB-Weld to hold the components down inside the panel. After a few years, several heatsinks, SSRs, etc have come loose and I need to redo the JB-Weld.

What is a good adhesive to hold components to the plastic control panel case? JB-Weld? Maybe I just didn't use enough.

Use DIN rails. Makes it easy. Mount to the removable inner plate if your enclosure has one.
 
I only have one liquid level sensor as of right now. It's a capacitive Omron sight glass sensor, which mounts on the kettle sight glass. Right now I am using it to measure MLT liquid height for automatic fill and for an electronic auto sparge system. It's not cheap but it's non-contact and requires no cleaning.

I would be curious how the cleaning of mechanical float switches goes. I suppose with bottom drains and CIP they would clean up without issue.

-BD
 
Where did you buy those? What model? these aren't indwelling but mount externally to sightless?
I'm looking for some for auto fill and heat of HLT similar to you. No auto sparge here though. Care to share some photos & additional details of your setup? My mechanical floats were fragged trying to convert to TC fittings. At this point just need some TC or otherwise. For HLT duty, threaded will be fine. (flush $100)
TD
 
I only have one liquid level sensor as of right now. It's a capacitive Omron sight glass sensor, which mounts on the kettle sight glass. Right now I am using it to measure MLT liquid height for automatic fill and for an electronic auto sparge system. It's not cheap but it's non-contact and requires no cleaning.

I would be curious how the cleaning of mechanical float switches goes. I suppose with bottom drains and CIP they would clean up without issue.

-BD

So I got a set of four on ebay for like $19 + $45 S&H. I only have one sight glass, though am considering adding additional via Tee fitting though not sure its going to work as I'd like. Might be easier if not more costly than doing etching.....


But the real question is, how the heck do you wire the sensors? I have the E2K-L sensors. They have three leads. Found a data sheet that gives the wiring info but shows +VDC, 0VDC (ground or -VDC I assume goes here), and then Load between the +VDC and the blue wire I believe. I was thinking that I could wire that to a SSR or relay to trigger closing/switching a circuit.. Got a diagram of how you are using and a photo of the installed sensors?

TD
 
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