Bazooka T and I.C. Conflict in Keggle

[RedVR6]

Hi Guys,

I did not want to hijack chavez's pickup tube thread...

Since I plan on starting out with 5 gallon batches to get my feet wet again...I just finished a dry run on my burner and keggle today (finally!!) to check for leaks and measure my boil off rate. At the end of the test boil I discovered something a little annoying with my Bazooka T and my B3 5/10 Immersion Chiller that I overlooked. I am finding the sanke adapter for the Bazooka-T is getting in the way of the IC when I place the chiller in the keggle...so it is not fully immersed (only the bottom 2 coils are) and then it tilts over to the side and rests against the side of the keggle. Not effective or efficient IMO.

I am curious as to what solutions people have come up with this issue when boiling a 5 gallon batch. The only thing I can think of is to put the IC into the pot prior to filling it and threading the sanke adapter thru the coils so that it stands straight and is fully immersed. I hate to bend the IC though...but if that is what I need to do..so be it.

Any suggestings are appreciated.

 

[Chris_Dog]

Another thing to consider is that over time the IC will bend up the bazooka pretty bad. (At least mine did)

 

[RedVR6]

That is another oversight I had too.

Now I am wondering if I should just look into a CFC.

 

[Chris_Dog]

I went the other way with a false bottom. I didn't want the additional clean up of an CFC.

 

[RedVR6]

Hmm. Now I am rethinking my whole setup in the keg. I just drained it and did not like how much water was leftover once the air hit the plumbing of the bazooka (I have seen Bobby_M mention this in other threads and now I see what he was talking about). Gah!!

Perhaps a false bottom would be the way to go so I don't need to ditch my IC. What false bottom do you have Chris?

I suppose I could fabricate a pickup tube of sorts too.

I am glad I am discovering all this on a test run.

 

[Chris_Dog]

My false bottom came with a pick up tube... give me a min. and I will find the link.

 

[Chris_Dog]

I don't remember the exact suppler that I got mine from but here is a link.
http://northernbrewer.com/allgrain.html

I had to bend the p/u tube quite a bit (and cut it) so it fit .
I think it was here but they are out of stock...
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/ProdByID.aspx?ProdID=4468

 

[Chris_Dog]

I used a tube cutter similar to this... probably not recommended for stainless but it worked.

actually mine is much smaller

 

[RedVR6]

Chris,

Thanks. How's the pick up with the tube? Does it sit lower than the Bazooka-T?

Also, how do you have it connected to (I assume) your ball valve? Here's the inside of my keg with a 1/2" coupling welded in the side.

I am guessing I would need an adapter like this.

Thanks for the help...still researching here and open to other options anyone may have.

 

[Chris_Dog]

That adapter is exactly what I used. I bent the tube so the pickup is less the 1/8" from the bottom.

 

[RedVR6]

Cool. Now my next question on a FB setup...would this tube be in the way of my IC like the sanke adapter tubing is? Which is really what the problem is here.

 

[Chris_Dog]

The short answer is yes. It will not be any different from the obstruction from your bazooka , but much less fragile and wasteful. I do 10g batches so all of the cooling coils are submerged.

 

[RedVR6]

Heh. I was just going to edit that post and say nevermind...I'm a little slow today. I am glad I posted before trashing the Bazooka, etc. Will put it up for sale.

What I think I will do is to put the chiller in the keg and thread the tube between the coils before I brew. I can not imagine that causing any issues with the brew or damage to the IC.

Side note....During and after my test boil yesterday I was really pleased how easy it was to do this outside in a large kettle not worrying about boilovers, etc...10g batches can't be any harder. Just need to fix a few kinks with the equipment and I will be back in 'bidness'.

 

[Chris_Dog]

That was precisely why I moved to 10g batches, not much more work for twice the beer!


I will say the SS tube was very hard and a ***** to bend. (maybe someone can give us pointers on that)

 

[RedVR6]

I was just thinking that too while flipping thru my catalogs here. Hmm.

 

[cudaman]

I made three short legs for my IC to clear my bazooka screen. In doing this I was able to position the chiller in the center of the keg for better cooling. I made the legs by modifying 3 copper tee's with my trusty dremel tool, a few hose clamps. It works great. Hope this helps.

 

[missing link]

The bazooka t will pick up pretty much all of the liquid in your kettle as long as you have a hose on the spigot and a screw clamp on the slotted fitting. Mine leaves behind maybe 1/4" of fluid in the bottom of the kettle and after a boil, that is all trub and hops anyway.

 

[pickles]

+1 missing link you need an outlet tube on your keggle spigot to keep the "siphon" going. Mine only leaves the 1/4" space below my pickup.

 

[RedVR6]

Hmm. I had not factored in trub either here. So, I'd have to shorten the sanke adapter a little anyway to minimize that. Not really a concern just yet, but def. needs to be thought about.

I still think it would be in the way of my IC and as Chris_Dog metioned, the IC is going to eventually trash the Bazooka T unless I put feet on the IC...not a bad idea.

Chris, how is trub pickup with the false bottom?

 

[RedVR6]

Just bringing this back up real quick.

I just got the false bottom and compression fitting from Midwest Supplies that Chris recommended. Can someone (Chris?) explain to me how the compression fitting is supposed to work with the pickup tube? I expected it (the pickup tube) to have a secure and airtight connection into the fitting when it was tightened down...but it easily slides in and out of the one end of the fitting. Is this something to be concerned about or is that how it is supposed to be? (I hope that makes sense).

 

[pickles]

if the ID of the compression fitting is the correct size for the OD of the pickup tube; it should be a slip fit before tightening. As you tighten the nut it "compresses" the inner bushing around the pickup tube. sounds to me like your missing the bushing inside the compression fitting.

 

[RedVR6]

Hmm. Lemme take a picture of it and the hardware inside. I wonder if I have the innards backwards.

[edit] Here's a pic of the connector taken apart and parts in order that they came out (right to left).

 

[Chris_Dog]

Just bringing this back up real quick.

I just got the false bottom and compression fitting from Midwest Supplies that Chris recommended. Can someone (Chris?) explain to me how the compression fitting is supposed to work with the pickup tube? I expected it (the pickup tube) to have a secure and airtight connection into the fitting when it was tightened down...but it easily slides in and out of the one end of the fitting. Is this something to be concerned about or is that how it is supposed to be? (I hope that makes sense).

I'll check when I get home today.

 

[Chris_Dog]

The way I have mine is just how you have them lined up in the picture. If there are 5 pieces form left to right. #2 goes 90° to the right and #3 90° to the left.

 

[RedVR6]

Hmm. I thought I might have had it that way. So all parts should be assembled like this?(sorry, lousy cell phone pic)

If so...how secure of a fitment should I expect when tightened down for the tube? Hand tightening with this set up allows for the p/u tube to slide freely.

 

[Chris_Dog]

I may have told you wrong turn the cone piece around and you got it. I tighten mine snugly with a wrench.

 

[RedVR6]

Heh. I was just googling these fittings and it looks like the cone is definitely backwards. (duh to me). So that makes more sense. Thanks.

I know I keep asking...but should I be concerned with the freely sliding p/u tube? Not that I am worried that it will come out of the adapter...more that there is not a solid airtight seal.

 

[Chris_Dog]

Mine tightens up snugly, I would be concerned too that you would loose the siphon. Make sure the cone is up from the end of the tube a bit. It doesn't hold as well if it is over the end.

 

[RedVR6]

Almost forgot to post...Chris, I was in Orlando all last week at a conference at the Dolphin and Swan. I should have sent you some beer for putting up with my stupidity here.

Anyway, the p/u tube is not a snug fit in the compression fitting as I had expected it to be when tightened down (there is nothing preventing it from backing out of the fitting when assembled). This is not going to work. Argh...I might have to go back to my original plan with this false bottom that a friend recommended. Using two barbs and a length of high temp hosing.

 

[Chris_Dog]

I would of had a beer with you while you were here.

I am no expert or plumber but I think it is the compression that holds it in place. The water for my refrigerator has the same type of fitting and doesn't leak a drop.

Your other plan works fine too... I have the same set up on my MLT.

 

[RedVR6]

Gah. Oh well....I did not put 2+2 together until tonight when I checked this thread. Next time!

Maybe I am misinterpreting this fitting. But I am under the impression the p/u tube, when the nut is tightened down, should be secure and should not slide freely. That is the way I have seen it too on water pipes like that. Maybe I did not crank it down tight enough (as I have only tightened it hand tight)?? So simple, yet so difficult.