Batch versus Fly Sparging

[mgortel]

Doing my first all grain brew next weekend...and am wondering if I should do a batch sparge or fly sparge......when would each one be proper..?? Pro's and cons??

I plan on doing Biernmunchers Centennial Blonde as my first all grain.

Thanks for the input!

 

[RighteousFire]

If you don't have a properly designed lautering manifold and system, or a false bottom, then go with a batch sparge. A double batch sparge would be best.

The thing to remember with fly sparging is it should be slow, and you need to keep an eye on everything the entire time if it is your first time doing it.

 

[El_Exorcisto]

I double or occasionally triple batch sparge and have good results. It's much more forgiving than fly sparging, since you are much more active in the process. It's also faster, and has a much shorter learning curve than fly sparging.

 

[jetmac]

I have never fly sparged, just batch sparged.

Batch sparging seems so much simpler.
I can vorlauf(?) and drain my first runnings into my kettle. Pour my sparge water in, stir, let it sit 5-10 min and vorlauf(?) and drain that and I'm done.
I don't have to use any extra equipment or monitor the sparge or pH.

I think quite a few home brewers fly sparge just to say they do.

Have you considered "NO Sparge"?

 

[El_Exorcisto]

I don't even vorlauf. As long as I use irish moss in the boil I can read the paper through a pint.

 

[AKnewbrews]

My first and only all-grain I did I just did what was comfortable, which was fly sparging. I have no such fly sparging equipment, but I have setup my false bottom to ensure as much water as possible rinses the grain and does not bypass it by channelling. All my water goes though the false bottom as the false bottom is sealed to the side of the MLT. I heated my total sparge water volume and poured it slowly over my large stainless spoon letting it trickle atop the 1-2" water above the grain bed. I got 80% efficiency.

 

[mgortel]

I havn't thought about "No Sparge".....I suppose that would require a large enough mash tun.....but is the efficiency going to be good?

A double Batch Sparge is (2) sparges after I drain the initial wort out of the mash tun?

So for example.....if I pull 2.5 gallons off the initial draining....I would run a 2-gallon sparge.....and then another 2 gallon sparge (assuming I need a 6.5 gallon pre boil volume)???

Thanks!

 

[jetmac]

I havn't thought about "No Sparge".....I suppose that would require a large enough mash tun.....but is the efficiency going to be good?Thanks!

You would have to add about 1/3 more grain. Brewing just 5 gal batches would hardly increase your cost.

From a Promash article: The benefits (while still being debated) include a richer, maltier beer. The reasons for this seem to be the fewer tannins leached from the mash due to the lack of sparging.

No Sparge

BYO article by John Palmer

From Brewboard.com

A: The benefits of no-sparging brewing are:
* Simplicity - add water to Mash Tun, heat, add grain, wait, drain wort to boil pot
* Richer, Maltier Beer - when sparging the pH and buffering capacity of the wort usually changes, which causes more polyphenols, silicates, and tannins to be extracted, which can affect the taste of the finished beer
* pH Consistency - once you set it at the beginning of the mash it stays consistent because you don’t add water
* Specific Gravity Targeting - the SG of the mash will be the SG in the boiling pot (if it’s too low just keep mashing)
* Time - it’s usually faster to do a no-sparge mash than a mash followed by a long sparge (I usually shoot for a 60-90 minute mash, but I did have one mash that took 4.5 hours to convert! crazy.gif )
* Potentially Less Equipment – since the entire mash is performed in one pot you can potentially have one big Mash Tun (pot), drain your mash into a bucket, rinse out your Mash Tun, fill it back up with the wort in your bucket and start the boil.

How did this become the first post??

 

[malkore]

I don't even vorlauf. As long as I use irish moss in the boil I can read the paper through a pint.

except vorlauf is about getting grain particles large enough you can see them OUT of the wort so you don't boil the grain pieces and leech tannins into the wort.

that's what setting the grain bed is supposed to filter.