Batch sparge clogged? Long drain time

[karljs]

I did my first proper batch sparge recently, and had a problem getting the second runnings to drain properly. I did the following: add water at strike temperature, stir vigorously, wait an hour, vorlauf, drain into kettle. Up to this point, everything worked great. Then, to batch sparge, I added water at about 190F, stirred vigorously, and started draining again.

The second runnings more or less clogged my mash tun though, and it took me almost an hour to get the expected amount of liquid out with the valve wide open. Is this normal, or did I do something wrong? After adding the sparge water should I have waited for the grain bed to settle?

Thanks.

 

[JoeSpartaNJ]

A lot of variables. How fast did you try to vorlauf? Did you try to clear your runnings or did you just let it rip full throttle?

I find that my sparge does take longer as I do not stir my initial runnings from mash. Since I grind finer, it takes longer for me to clear.

Also, what is you set up? Do you have false bottom, or stainless braid? I use a bazooka tube. I found the braid is an easy mark for stuck sparge.


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[karljs]

A lot of variables. How fast did you try to vorlauf? Did you try to clear your runnings or did you just let it rip full throttle?

I did a fairly quick vorlauf of about 4 quarts each on both the first and second runnings, although the grain bed wasn't settled for the second runnings so I'm not sure how much it really helped. After the vorlauf I just let it rip. Would slowing all of this down be something to try?

I was thinking it made sense to get the initial runnings out quickly so that my sparge water would allow for a pseudo mash-out. Does that make sense?

I find that my sparge does take longer as I do not stir my initial runnings from mash. Since I grind finer, it takes longer for me to clear.

Also, what is you set up? Do you have false bottom, or stainless braid? I use a bazooka tube. I found the braid is an easy mark for stuck sparge.

I didn't stir my initial runnings either, but they still drained pretty quickly. Also, I use a false bottom which was not visibly clogged once I cleaned it up.

 

[LLBrewer]

Add a grain bag to your mash setup https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/using-bag-grain-mash-tun-480569/

 

[ASantiago]

Could it be the inside diameter of the way from the false bottom to the valve?

I used to use one of those orange 10 gallon Igloo coolers with a valve and false bottom. I would often get stuck sparges, even with simple recipes that didn't include anything gummy like wheat. And that was using at least 8 oz of rice hulls in each batch.

Recently, I started to suspect the size of the overall pipe from the false bottom to the valve. By "pipe" I mean all the fittings, tubing, etc. I believe 3/8 in, which is what's there, is too small and prone to clogging. I had to use a coat hanger *a lot* to get flow going.

I switched MLTs before I could test my theory, but it may be something you may want to check out. My new one has 1/2 in all the way. It's hard to imagine 1/8 making that much of a difference, but I think it does.

 

[hophop]

I just blow back through the hose, into the Nash tun. It frees up the clog. You have to vorlauf again, but it unclogs it.


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[karljs]

Thanks for the advice. I'm not actually convinced that I really clogged the tubing/valve connecting to the false bottom, but that's certainly one possible explanation. I was thinking that I clogged the false bottom itself. Next time I'll try blowing/using a coat hanger and seeing if that helps.

Using a bag in the mash tun also seems like a good idea. I'll read through that thread when I have a bit more time.

 

[ASantiago]

I know you are considering other options and that's cool. But I'm working through a different, but related, problem right now and I'm starting to suspect mash thickness. For single infusion in a cooler, I've been using 1.25 quarts/gallon and that may be too thick for good flow with certain recipes.

Just thought I'd throw this out there...

 

[masonsjax]

Stuck sparge is usually either too fine of a crush, or a high percentage of wheat/rye in the grist. If it's the latter, use some rice hulls, if not, try a coarser crush.

You don't need to throttle your vorlauf or runnings, it should happen as quick as possible. A mashout isn't needed with a batch sparge but again, the sparge should be complete in minutes.

 

[karljs]

I know you are considering other options and that's cool. But I'm working through a different, but related, problem right now and I'm starting to suspect mash thickness. For single infusion in a cooler, I've been using 1.25 quarts/gallon and that may be too thick for good flow with certain recipes.

Just thought I'd throw this out there...

I used this calculator to determine how much water to use for the mash and sparge. Next time I may try going closer to 50/50 and seeing how that works.

Also, regarding crush, I am pretty much limited to the mill at my LHBS but next time I go in I'll ask them about that.

 

[ASantiago]

Not sure what you mean by 50/50, but I see an editable field on that calculator for "Mash Thickness". This is what I'm talking about. In my case, I've been using 1.25; probably should be using 1.50 or higher for a thinner mash that runs easier.