Barleywine Hop Schedule

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finsfan

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So I am planning to brew a barleywine in the future, but am at a loss as to what hop schedule I am going to use. I dont really want a full blown American barleywine but am up for suggestions. I dont want to dryhop or use a ton of hops at flameout, but again, im new to brewing this style and may need to do those steps. The grist is below. Any help with the hop schedule would be great. I do have extra simcoe in the freeze but figured I could only use those to bitter. Thanks!

18 lb - American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb - German - Munich Light
1 lb - American - Victory
0.25 lb - German - Carafa III
 
Ok, first, I think you are right to consider not using any flavor or aroma hops because they are likely to disappear pretty quickly. But, I only offer that advice if you plan on cellaring the barleywine for a few years. I've had some pretty tasty barleywines that were only a few months old that had great hop presence. They were still slightly hot, but it went well with the rest of the beer.

I think it's all about what you expect from the beer. I had a Belgian Golden Strong Ale that I messed up the hops and added twice the bittering hops. At bottling it was very bitter, but after a few years it got carbed up and the bitterness dropped out and I think it was really pretty good (But more like a Belgian barleywine than a BGSA. I hope this latest batch is drier...) Your recipe is on the high end for a barleywine in gravity, and if you want to make an English barleywine, then you need to hop it accordingly, by which I mean enough to support the malt for at least a while, but I think you really want to avoid using late hops or making the beer all about the hops.

If you wanted to make this an American Barleywine, then more late hops and even more bittering hops would be fine. I'm not sure how late hop compounds react in beer over time. If this is going to be kept for a few years, those hop compounds might degrade into something less than enjoyable. Or it will be fine, I don't know. Simcoe would be fine for either an English bittering only, or an American for late hopping.

Really you could use any hop variety, but a high alpha hop would be better for bittering as you would use less and have less chance of vegetable flavors in the beer. Plus they are less expensive and there won't be as much in the kettle to deal with (if that's a problem for you.)

I would say maybe 2 ounces Simcoe for bittering an English Barleywine, and 3 ounces for an American. Or maybe go 2 ounces Simcoe for bittering, and 2 ounces Centennial at 20 minutes.

Again, I think it depends on what you want to do, make a sweeter, thick and rich English barleywine with raisin, toffee, etc., or go American, with more hope presence with less of the sweet fruit and caramel flavors.

This is a good topic and I think you'll get a variety of responses.
 
Wow, thank you so such a detailed response! This is something that I plan to keep for years to see how it changes. I like the idea of adding 2 oz at 60 and 2 at 20. Also, I forgot to mention that this recipe for for 6 gallons. That doesnt make much difference, but it still keeps it above 10% :D
 
I based my suggestions on a 5 gallon batch using Beersmith. You might want to do some recipe searches online and compare how other people hop their barleywines for comparison.

You know I think I still have a couple of bottles of my first barleywine, my last extract batch, from back in like 2005. I will have to climb into the closet and seek it out. MIght be good to chill a couple.
 
I hope I will be able to hang onto some that long! I will do some more research today and try to find an english BW close to my recipe for the hop schedule.
 
After a little reading, I decided to go with the following. I dont plan to drink many soon, so the IBU's are about at the top of the range for an English BW.

2oz simcoe at 60
1oz fuggles at 15
1oz fuggles at 0

IBU: 68.96
 
I've brewed this several times before, Old Stoner by Denny:

INGREDIENTS
20.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row)
4.50 lbs. Munich Malt(2-row)
1.75 lbs. CaraMunich 80
0.75 lbs. Crystal 60L
2.00 oz. Columbus Whole 18.30%AA First Wort Hopping
3.00 oz. Chinook Whole 14.50%AA 60 min.
1.00 oz. Centennial Whole 7.80%AA 2 min.
1.00 Tsp Irish Moss Fining 15 Min.(boil)
WYeast 1056 Amercan Ale/Chico


A lot more hops than you have going on. Only 68 IBUs is like a traditional IPA, and with that much malt going on its going to get lost. Unless you are shooting for a more English Style. But for a bold west coast american barleywine, I'd take a look at upping those a bit
 
Here is the last recipe I used:

12 lbs 9.6oz Pale Malt
3 lbs 10.9 oz Biscuit Malt
3 lbs light DME
1 lb 13.5 oz Crystal 50/60
1 oz Chinook 60 min (next time I'll use 2 oz)
1 oz Centennial 30 mins
1/2 oz Fuggles 15 min
1/2 oz Fuggles 0 min

Wyeast - London Ale

It was the best between 11 months til gone.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
thanks for the replies! Looks like fuggles at the end is what im going to stick with. I may end up changing the simcoe to something more fitting though. I am going for an English BW and planning to use 1098. 1098 should work in my in case as the website says it can go up to 10% and my software claims this recipe to be around 9.8%. Kind of pushing the yeasts limits, but I dont really want to buy another strain if I dont have to.
 
I think any high alpha hop would work for bittering, but you might want to save that Simcoe for an American IPA! I think northern brewer or magnum are common bittering hops.
 
Belgian barleywine [/QUOTE said:
I'm brewing a Belgian barleywine in the near future. I'm trying to figure out the hop schedule, aiming for English rather than American style. Given that this is a lot of expense/waiting, would you say that belgian yeast in a barleywine is a reasonable experiment? Or did you find it unpalatable or a waste of resources?

Thanks,
B
 
I'm brewing a Belgian barleywine in the near future. I'm trying to figure out the hop schedule, aiming for English rather than American style. Given that this is a lot of expense/waiting, would you say that belgian yeast in a barleywine is a reasonable experiment? Or did you find it unpalatable or a waste of resources?

Thanks,
B

What are you looking for out of your barleywine? Are you familiar with what belgian yeasts bring to the table? Every belgian yeast will be slightly different. Generally if you want a bit more spicey/peppery go for cooler ferment, if you want a bit more clove/fruit then go for warmer end.

Then keep in mind that some of the belgian yeasts will also give you some fusel alcohol flavors/aromas if too warm a ferment.

What are you looking for out of your malts and hops? If you want a drier beer with some noble hopping then a cooler spicey/pepper could go well with a cleaner barleywine. If you are really upping the fruity/sweet malts and got some high power fruity/spice hops then you might want a warmer ferment.

If you don't want to mess with yeast flavors then just get a high attenuating English or American yeast.

You have to know what you want from your beer to decide on what yeast to go with. Also...I just finished reading the brew like a monk book, so I might feel like I know it all when I really dont at the moment....LOL.
 
I'm brewing my first barleywine in a few days, and thought I'd add to the discussion. I'm planning it to be a hybrid English/American BW:

17.75# Thomas Fawcett Maris Otter
0.75# British medium and extra dark crystal malts, 50/50 mix
DME and cane sugar, if necessary, to reach 1.090

Mash at 154

65 IBU from
1.35 oz Magnum at 60
1 oz Chinook at 10
1 oz WGV at 5
1 oz Cascade at 0
Dry hop with 2 oz WGV in two stages

Ferment at 68 F with big repitch of US-05.

I'm hoping for a moderately big BW, about 9.25%


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
What are you looking for out of your barleywine? Are you familiar with what belgian yeasts bring to the table? Every belgian yeast will be slightly different. Generally if you want a bit more spicey/peppery go for cooler ferment, if you want a bit more clove/fruit then go for warmer end.

Then keep in mind that some of the belgian yeasts will also give you some fusel alcohol flavors/aromas if too warm a ferment.

What are you looking for out of your malts and hops? If you want a drier beer with some noble hopping then a cooler spicey/pepper could go well with a cleaner barleywine. If you are really upping the fruity/sweet malts and got some high power fruity/spice hops then you might want a warmer ferment.

If you don't want to mess with yeast flavors then just get a high attenuating English or American yeast.

You have to know what you want from your beer to decide on what yeast to go with. Also...I just finished reading the brew like a monk book, so I might feel like I know it all when I really dont at the moment....LOL.


Thanks for the input! Feel free to chime in, you know more than I do at this point.

If you follow the link (which I may have to update) I'm using 18lbs Maris Otter, about 3oz of CTZ (17%AA) and some resurrected Maudite yeast (Canadian-Belgian). I also want to boil down some of the first runnings a-la wee-heavy to boost melanoidins.

My goal is to highlight both the grain and the plum/cinnamon yeast into an approachable but full-bodied brew that leans more towards barleywine than a quad (after some deliberation, I ruled out dark candi sugar and special B). Cellar temps are just under 60*F so I'm not too worried about fusels, although I do want to bring out the yeast flavors.

I wanted to shoot for a 5-gallon batch, but my primary doesn't have a lot of headspace and I don't wanna lose any magic to the blow-off tube or rely on malt extracts, so I guess it'll be more like 3.5 gal.

Please comment, as I don't wanna make stupid mistakes on such an undertaking.

Thanks!
 
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