Astringency or Something Else?

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Is it Astrigency or Something Else?

  • Likely astringency due to improper mash Ph

  • Likely something else

  • Likely you're an idiot


Results are only viewable after voting.

bsent

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Since switching to all grain about 5 months ago, I've brewed 5 batches (2 of the same recipe all from BCS) and all of them consistently exhibit a "harshness" that I haven't been able to diagnose. I wasn't having this issue prior to going all grain. The big process change I introduced at that point was switching from using distilled water (with the extract) to brewing with City of Austin water which is Ph 9.6 (water report linked - my tap water is the column labeled UWTP - Tap):

http://www.austintexas.gov/sites/default/files/files/Water/WaterQualityReports2015/WQS_1q2015.pdf

The beer isn't terrible, it's just off in a way that's too consistent to be a coincidence and I want it to be better. I have kept a couple of these beers in the keg for several months (sometimes in the 60's due to sharing space in my fermentation chamber) and the off flavor has remained consistent. For that reason, I'm pretty sure it's not a contamination issue (otherwise I would expect the off flavor to change in character or intensity).

I know a high mash Ph can cause problems with astringency, but I'm having trouble identifying whether what I'm tasting is actually astringency. Would a high mash Ph yield beer described as "harsh" or "thick"? I'm just having trouble identifying this with the "sucking on a teabag" description that's in all the literature (insert your teabag joke here) and so I'm not sure if I've found the culprit or if I should investigate other potential issues.

I know this stuff is really difficult to describe verbally, so I'll throw out several descriptors that either came from me or LHBS staff, my wife, and co-workers who I've had taste the beers:

- Harsh
- Thick; lingers on your tongue
- Intense flavor

My efficiency has always run a little high (high 70s or low 80s) and as my volume measurements became more repeatable and precise, this particular flavor has only seemed worse (e.g. averaging closer to the low 80s than high 70s). The one exception was the Traditional Bock recipe from BCS. That beer seemed to turn out pretty well, and the only real difference I could see was that the grain bill has more dark malts than the other recipes I've been brewing lately (American Amber and Martzen). That really started making me question Ph in the mash.

Process
My basic process is mashing at ~1.5qt/lb. I've done both batch and fly sparging, but use a 10G Igloo cooler so I typically do a single infusion for about an hour in the 149-154 range (depending on the recipe). I've been acidifying my sparge water with ~1.75ml of 88% lactic. I use Brewer's Friend to help with all the acid/salt calculations. I typically prefer the maltier styles, so I'll often put 1-3 grams of calcium chloride in as well to round out the flavor and give me a little calcium boost since our water is pretty low on calcium. In the grand scheme of things, that doesn't seem like much.

After ensuring volumes and checking pre-boil gravity, I boil for 90 minutes, whirl floc and whirlpool chill with my immersion chiller. Then I check post-boil gravity and transfer to the fermentor for aeration and pitching. I pitch the calculated amount of liquid yeast from my starter, oxygenate with pure O2 through a 1/2 micron stone for 2 mins at 1/2lpm and typically see good activity within the first 12 hours. I temperature control the fermentation to completion and typically get somewhere in the middle of the listed range of attenuation for the variety of liquid yeast I'm using.

Other Things I've Tried
Last week I bought a better Milwaukee Ph meter from MoreBeer, as the erratic readings I've seen from my $30 cheapo meter don't give me a lot of confidence (even after calibrating it with solution).

I also brewed my last batch (BCS Angel Wings Maibock) by building the water from distilled instead of using the Austin water. It's still in the fermentor, so I don't yet know if that will make a big difference.

I haven't had a chance to use the new meter or carb and taste the new batch yet, but hopefully those things will tell me something. In the meantime, I also wanted to run this by you guys in case my results aren't totally conclusive. Overall I'm just hoping for some confirmation that I'm on the right track or some ideas about other factors to consider.

Thanks!
 
I'm not all that familiar with Austin water, but it does sounds like there is some alkalinity in the water. That doesn't necessarily translate to 'tannins', although it can, but it can be a strong harshness if the mash pH is too high or of there is a lot of sulfate in the water.

The listed 'tap' isn't all that high in alkalinity, but it is very high in the "raw" water. Perhaps it varies at times?
 
I noticed the same thing as @Yooper . Assuming the "Tap" water is what you're actually getting out of the tap, the alkalinity is certainly manageable. Lower than the alkalinity of my tap water, which is lower than many other parts of the country. The raw stuff is very, very thigh though.

However, even at that alkalinity, you'll probably still need acid in the mash unless you're going fairly dark or really upping the calcium.

Here's another question: Are you dealing with the chlorine in the water? It's in there per the report at enough of a level to cause problems, and would be a common thread in the switch from bottled w/ extract to tap w/ all grain.
 
Good point. I do carbon filter through my painfully slow fridge filter but maybe that isn't getting the job done. I do have some Camden tablet so I can try that
 
Austin water is far from the worst tasting tap water I've had, but it has enough of a "taste" that I'd be hesitant to brew with it.

The Hill Country in general has pretty hard water, which is why I brew strictly building up from RO water. I'd be interested to hear if you see a noticeable difference with your latest batch.
 
BTW - I'm one of the votes calling myself an idiot in case anyone is wondering. Not sure who else thinks I'm an idiot but clearly I agree with them.

I'll definitely post an update once I can try the Maibock brewed from water I built up from distilled.

Based on other threads, one of the other things I was considering is fining some of the finished beer with polyclar (since it should help precipitate out tannis/polyphenols). While this may cause other changes in flavor, I'm wondering if you guys think it might at least help confirm that what I'm experiencing is really astringency from tannins.
 
That was me.

The option was there, and I couldn't resist.

Yeah - I knew the post was long so I was hoping that the opportunity to call me an idiot would encourage a few extra people to read the whole thing ;-)
 
I'll definitely post an update once I can try the Maibock brewed from water I built up from distilled.

Based on other threads, one of the other things I was considering is fining some of the finished beer with polyclar (since it should help precipitate out tannis/polyphenols). While this may cause other changes in flavor, I'm wondering if you guys think it might at least help confirm that what I'm experiencing is really astringency from tannins.

Are you using any 5.2 Mash Stabilizer? I have had some weird things happen (no hot break, wierd kursen and an odd flavor that aged out in a stout) using that stuff and after reading about it here decided to stop using it.

The Mailbock will tell you if it is water or something in your brewing process. FWIW I brewed 2-3 all grain beers before learning about water caculators, PH and chemistry. Never had any problems that you described (dumb luck maybe?).

I just did my first batch with RO water built up using a calculator and acid malt. Should be interesting to see if there is a big flavor difference.
 
I see that you are acidifying the sparging water, but you don't mention acidifying the mashing water. What criteria are you using to determine how much acid to add to that sparging water?

The water report does not look that bad excepting for the alkalinity and it is manageable with acidification. I'm wondering if you've been adding enough acid?

The other thing that can create tannin extraction and astringency is over-sparging. The popular advice is to stop runoff at about 1.008, but I've had to revise my approach and I now stop around 1.012 to avoid tannins. Could that be a source for your problems?

As mentioned above, if you aren't removing chlorine or chloramine, that could create flavor problems in the beer too. I'm not sure if your fridge water is fully dechlorinated. You may be better off with the campden tabs for dechlorination.
 
Are you using any 5.2 Mash Stabilizer? I have had some weird things happen (no hot break, wierd kursen and an odd flavor that aged out in a stout) using that stuff and after reading about it here decided to stop using it.

I've never used 5.2. I did some reading and had some of the same concerns, so immediately started trying to figure out my local water when switching to all grain. Also since I never could figure out what was in 5.2 I was concerned that even if I made it work I would never understand why or how to adjust it if something else changed.
 
I see that you are acidifying the sparging water, but you don't mention acidifying the mashing water. What criteria are you using to determine how much acid to add to that sparging water?

The water report does not look that bad excepting for the alkalinity and it is manageable with acidification. I'm wondering if you've been adding enough acid?

You're right - I was acidifying the sparge water based on calcuations from Brewer's Friend. I more recently discovered your spreadsheet so I'm working to compare the two.

I haven't added acid to the mash, but based on some of the feedback it seems it would be warranted some some grainbills. I'll definitely re-run this through the spreadsheet or see if I messed something up in my previous calcs.

The other thing that can create tannin extraction and astringency is over-sparging. The popular advice is to stop runoff at about 1.008, but I've had to revise my approach and I now stop around 1.012 to avoid tannins. Could that be a source for your problems?

I was a lot more aware/concerned about over-sparging, so I'm less concerned that was the issue. I didn't take gravity from the final runnings every time, but I typically overshoot my target OG and the two times I did test final runnings they were in the 1.015 - 1.020 range.

As mentioned above, if you aren't removing chlorine or chloramine, that could create flavor problems in the beer too. I'm not sure if your fridge water is fully dechlorinated. You may be better off with the campden tabs for dechlorination.

This one does have me more concerned. I was probably over-confident in the ability of my fridge water filter to remove all the chloramine. I'll use the campden tabs next time, though I assume there are still other benefits to the carbon filter (e.g. do both rather than just using campden on unfiltered tap water).
 
Yes carbon filtering will get out most of the things that make water taste nasty. Its the chloramines that are hard to get out. Chloramines are used because they react and break down less in the water supply system.
 
After reading for weeks on different possible sources, I've come to the conclusion that describing what you are tasting is difficult and imprecise. So, I'm beginning to wonder if I've correctly even described the symptoms.

Check out this thread where the OP suspected everything from his hoses to his brewing water and even machine oil in his CO2 tank. Then ultimately he concluded that his issue was the chloramines in the tap water he was mixing with his StarSan.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=292340

My symptoms sound similar to his (not detecting the issues when tasting earlier in the process), but I also think this could be unrelated. I find that there are many changes in the flavor profile of the beer through different steps of the process, and that the concentrated flavors in unfermented wort (or even uncarbonated finished beer) tend to mask things that were probably there the whole time.

I'll keep experimenting with this and keep posting, as I'm hopeful that I'll eventually find an answer and that admitting my stupid assumptions and wrong turns along the way may be helpful to someone in the future.
 
On that note, I racked the Maibock to a keg last night. FG came in at 1.012 (right on track) and the beer tastes OK so far. Still not convinced that I'm clear of the problem, but after carbonating for a week I'll give it a taste and see if I can pick up anything.

Along the lines of gathering more quantifiable data, I also used my new Ph meter to measure the finished beer Ph (which came in at 4.51). I have nothing to compare this to at the moment, other than a vague notion that finished beer Ph should be somewhere in the 4-5 range. I'm not even sure if finished beer Ph is relevant with suspected mash Ph problems, or if fermentation would tend to "erase" any evidence of a high mash Ph by the time you're done.
 
I think once you dial in some good brewing practices your problem will go away.

1. dechlorinate with campden tabs
2. acidify mash & sparge water as needed
3. watch over-sparging
 
For the last two batches I've been building up from distilled or RO water and also acidifying the mash and sparge water according to Brewer's Friend and Bru'nWater. I'm not sure which of these did the trick (or if it was a combination), but the consistent off flavor I was experiencing is no longer there.

To try and get a deeper understanding, I would like to take a sample of my fridge water (post carbon filtration) and have it tested for chlorine/chloramine. Does anyone have a recommendation of an appropriate test for just these two items? Sending it to Ward Labs seems unnecessary (and from what I've read may not get me the best results).

Is it possible that an aquarium-related test might be able to get me the answer needed to see how much residual chlorine/chloramine is left after the carbon filter? I assume the amount is less important than detecting presence, since using a little bit too much potassium metabisulfite (e.g. 1/2 of a campden tab when I only really needed 1/4) probably doesn't harm anything. Do those assumptions seem reasonable?
 
FWIW - over 2 years and 30 batches later I think this was the chloramine. Not just in my Mash and sparge water, but in my starters as well.

I’ve gone back to carbon filtering Austin water, but I add a Campden tablet to all my brewing water (or around 1/8th of a tablet for a starter) and this issue has never reappeared.
 
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