Anyone using the mm2?
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Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I have the MM2-2.0 with base, hopper and hopper extension (plus hardened steel rollers) and LOVE IT!! I had a BC (Barley Crusher) before and it was ok, but the Monster Mill kicks it's ass all over the playground. Even the standard model has larger diameter, and longer, rollers.
I power mine with an 18v DeWalt cordless hammerdrill. Works great. My only regret is getting the BC before it. If I hadn't, I would have ended up spending less money overall.
I power mine with an 18v DeWalt cordless hammerdrill. Works great. My only regret is getting the BC before it. If I hadn't, I would have ended up spending less money overall.
lpdjshaw
Well-Known Member
I've had the MM2 SS for a couple years and love it.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I seriously doubt you can go wrong with any of the Monster Mills... I opted for the hardened, 2" diameter, rollers so that I wouldn't be looking to get another mill later, as I increase batch sizes. I'm already planning on increasing to 10 gallon batches this year, and probably beyond that within another year, or two (tops)... With the version I have, it won't have any issue crushing the grain for each batch. It will also easily handle 10 gallon, and probably 15-20 gallon batch grain bills. With a 39# capacity hopper, I only have to fill it once. Even with a coming BIG brew (16-20%+ ABV) I won't need to add more grain to the hopper.
LLBeanJ
Well-Known Member
I have the standard model. It's a beast. Couldn't be happier.
I have the MM2 as well, it's awesome!
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
Mine should be here today! I'm a BIAB guy so I'm looking to get double crush results with only a single pass. Any recommendations on the setting I should use?
logdrum
Well-Known Member
Don't know about BIAB, but for a cooler MLT w/ braid .030 is my sweet spot. Love my Monster (2.0)!
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
logdrum said:
What kind of efficiency does that get you?
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I'm crushing to .038 with my MM2-2.0 and getting 78% on a regular basis. I'm using a keg mash tun with a NorCal/Jaybird false bottom.
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
Got mine from Farmhouse. He double milled some grains for me and I got 85%, assuming they use a MM since they sell em.
stratslinger
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking about a mill now, and the MM2 or MM2 2.0 are looking nice, just hesitant to drop that kind of scratch... How much of a benefit do you really get from going with the 2.0 over the base MM2? And, at a homebrew level, are hte hardened rollers really necessary? I'm thinking the stainless would be a decent idea, considering the benefits I've read about (and seen, with friends) from milling conditioned grain, and because I'd be storing it in my slightly damp basement...
logdrum
Well-Known Member
FWIW mine is actually just the MM2, not 2.0 I get 80% w/ double batch sparge, but I've changed a thing or two so I'm calculating 75% till I'm fully dialed in. Making mostly 5 gal. batches, but will blaze through any grain bill.
I get 80% w/ double batch sparge, but I've changed a thing or two so I'm calculating 75% till I'm fully dialed in. Making mostly 5 gal. batches, but will blaze through any grain bill.
logdrum
Well-Known Member
Esmitee
Well-Known Member
I have the Base MM2 . It is a hunk "O" Steel. I think it will last beyond ME!. Any one with the MM2 or other monster Mills have a problem with keeping the setting TIGHT, with the thumb screws?
It seems to me, at least with my MM2, if I tighten the thumb screws real tight {by hand} the passive roller seems to have drag on it and will not free spin like the drive roller. Last batch, after I adjusted the gap, and gently tightened the thumb screws, I think it moved and widened the gap as I crushed the grain.
It seems to me, at least with my MM2, if I tighten the thumb screws real tight {by hand} the passive roller seems to have drag on it and will not free spin like the drive roller. Last batch, after I adjusted the gap, and gently tightened the thumb screws, I think it moved and widened the gap as I crushed the grain.
I've had one for about a year now, and like everyone else, I love it.
logdrum
Well-Known Member
I have the Base MM2 . It is a hunk "O" Steel. I think it will last beyond ME!. Any one with the MM2 or other monster Mills have a problem with keeping the setting TIGHT, with the thumb screws?
It seems to me, at least with my MM2, if I tighten the thumb screws real tight {by hand} the passive roller seems to have drag on it and will not free spin like the drive roller. Last batch, after I adjusted the gap, and gently tightened the thumb screws, I think it moved and widened the gap as I crushed the grain.
I replaced those almost immediately (after 1 crush) w/ stainless hex head bolts-the only improvement I think you need make.
wolfman_48442
Well-Known Member
I have my MM gapped at .040 and I get 85% every time.
I fly sparge btw (probably not as slow as I should either)
I fly sparge btw (probably not as slow as I should either)
Esmitee
Well-Known Member
I can get the thumb screws very tight by hand or with pliers. Do you notice any drag on the passive roller if you tighten them up a lot? It should spin as freely as the drive roller.. maybe I should contact monster mills about this problem I have.
logdrum
Well-Known Member
Not that I've noticed, but I haven't really been looking. I'd def email Fred if you're concerned.
Budzu
Well-Known Member
I've been using the 3 roller version with the 2" rollers. I use a 1/3hp lafert motor geared down to about 225 rpm, cannot be started with grain in the hopper, and 25% of the time the grain feeds through the 3rd roller the wrong way (which crushes much much coarser). To correct this I have to stop the motor, and prime the bottom roller by hand in the correct direction. It is very frustrating and I've tried adjusting lots of things to correct it with no avail.
Anyone else with the 3 roller version?
Anyone else with the 3 roller version?
ne0t0ky0
Well-Known Member
Esmitee said:I have the Base MM2 . It is a hunk "O" Steel. I think it will last beyond ME!. Any one with the MM2 or other monster Mills have a problem with keeping the setting TIGHT, with the thumb screws?
It seems to me, at least with my MM2, if I tighten the thumb screws real tight {by hand} the passive roller seems to have drag on it and will not free spin like the drive roller. Last batch, after I adjusted the gap, and gently tightened the thumb screws, I think it moved and widened the gap as I crushed the grain.
I had this problem with my mm2.0. I adjusted to 0.039 and had to run the grain twice as the gap moved. Solved this by using pliers on the "thumb" screws. Next brew was locked down tight with no movement.
I have the Base MM2 . It is a hunk "O" Steel. I think it will last beyond ME!. Any one with the MM2 or other monster Mills have a problem with keeping the setting TIGHT, with the thumb screws?
i added hand wheels on mine, works much better.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I got replacement screws that are hex head for mine (from Fred/Monster)... I simply used a ratchet to tighten them enough so that they don't move. At some point I'll probably apply some thread locker to them, but there's no rush just yet.
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
How do the rollers move if you guys are cranking down on the screws? I haven't used mine yet but bought this instead of the BC because I heard the MM was better, not sounding like it so far in this thread.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I couldn't get them tight enough to hold. I think that they have since changed the set screws to make it easier for people. That was my ONLY issue with the mill. Even that was easily rectified.
LLBeanJ
Well-Known Member
I haven't had any issues with the gap setting moving after hand-tightening the thumbscrews on my MM2 and certainly no issues with the passive roller binding up.
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
Guess I'll start with thread tape or blue loctite. My maiden voyage will be at .037, I BIAB so I may double mill it.
mariojr
Well-Known Member
I have the 2.0 model and I love it!
LLBeanJ
Well-Known Member
I also do BIAB. I started at .035 and that worked fine, but have since lowered it to .030 (just to see what it would do) and that also works fine. I'm not sure if I've seen much difference between the two. At either setting efficiency has routinely been in the low 80s for most of my grain bills.
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
LLBeanJ said:
Nice, like to avoid the double mill. I'll have to get some feeler gauges I guess, retainer ring from a keg is .037, that's what I used!
ne0t0ky0
Well-Known Member
sivdrinks said:
Both rollers run freely no matter how tight or loose the gap screws are. Maybe there is something else wrong? I saw in another thread that the initial mounting needs to ensure the block is on square.
I have some drag on my passive wheel. Also, I have quite a bit of dust in my knurls which is likely contributing to some issues I've had with my MM2 (1.0?) setup.
What gap setting and efficiency are people using with their standard MM2s when batch sparging?
Thanks!
What gap setting and efficiency are people using with their standard MM2s when batch sparging?
Thanks!
Esmitee
Well-Known Member
I just went down to. 032 yesterday. No batch sparge ing problems.
So this past week I disassembled my mill housing, brushed it all off with a clean brush, reset the gap to 0.032", made sure the passive wheel spun just as easily as the drive wheel, and milled 12.5# of pilsner malt. No issues whatsoever. Got 80% efficiency. I'll be using this gap setting for the next several batches assuming I don't get any feeding issues, and hopefully will be able to get a repeatable brewhouse mash efficiency.
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
Still no feeler gauge. Gap is at .037, double milled 17lb of grain for the Breakfast Stout clone on here and still only got 68% efficiency. Any ideas what I'm missing? Will I automatically lose points on a big grain bill? BIAB guy, full volume mash, no sparge. Have gotten 80% before with grain from Farmhouse Brewing, he double mills with the MM3.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
With no feeler gauge how do you know what the gap is set to? Also, check to make sure both ends of the mill rollers are set to the same gap. With the original set screws (thumb-screws) I couldn't get the far side tight enough to stop if from moving. I got replacement hex head screws from Fred and those have worked great ever since (they don't move). Some thread locker, a day or three before hand, could also do the same thing.
What size is your mash tun/pot/kettle?
sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
Golddiggie said:
The retainer ring that I removed from my keg measures .037 with a micrometer, I just kinda slide it in and out and side to side. I think my thumb screws are OK but I'll replace them anyway. Still don't understand how you can crank the screws down without freezing up the passive roller. I'm using a 15.5 gallon keggle, BIAB.
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