Any reason BIAB would not work with Blichmann false bottom?
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VikeMan
It ain't all burritos and strippers, my friend.
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I don't see any reason why it couldn't work. Also, I think Blichmann makes a basket that can be used with the G2 kettle if you'd prefer BIABasket to BIABag. Disclaimer: I don't own a G2, but I've seen some.
It should work reasonably well. It's not going to flow as well as a wide open wire mesh would, but a gentle recirculation should be fine.
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The potential issue with a false bottom is if you were to apply some heat to bump mash temp the wort below the false bottom becomes several degrees warmer than inside the bag. Depends a lot on the volume below the false bottom, but there will be some temp differential.
..and whether you're recirculating the heated zone up and over the grainbed and where you're measuring the temps.
I don't necessarily have to use the Blichmann false bottom but it was included with the kettle so figured worth asking.
Haven't measured, but visual estimation is an inch, give or take, of space under the false bottom.
Maybe I'll try a batch or two non-BIAB with two vessels to see how I can get things going before popping for the Wilser bag and more hardware.
Haven't measured, but visual estimation is an inch, give or take, of space under the false bottom.
Maybe I'll try a batch or two non-BIAB with two vessels to see how I can get things going before popping for the Wilser bag and more hardware.
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Which 2 vessels, and how are they going to be used?
I have the 15g Blichmann G2 I just picked up today that has the false bottom, and I have a 10g Megapot 1.2, and a 50qt cooler mash tun I used for a while.
Got the 15 thinking for BIAB as I do occasionally like a big beer. But, since it has the Blichmann false bottom figured I could play for a while with non-BIAB mash in that and boil off in the 10g since I just do 5g (net) batches.
I have pump and RIMS Rocket with electric controller for recirc mash, also Blichmann gas Tower of Power that I could use for temp controlled heating of strike water or sparge water or whatever.
Have collected a lot of stuff for short $ on Craigslist and Markeplace. That's why the scattered postings you may have noticed. Could go a few directions with the "collection".
That should work fine.
And with much better temp control than directly heating the wort underneath the false bottom for recirculating the mash, which can easily overheat, denaturing enzymes quickly.
I don't believe this to be true at all, all other things being equal. Rather the opposite actually. In a RIMS "tube" the controller's probe is on the exit. Depending on the flow rate and the element's wattage, it's possible to drastically overheat the mash liquor over the element and the controller only knows it happens after the fact. Overheating is more likely due to the very small volume of liquid in the tube.
Contrast that with a BIAB where the heater is in a 2-3 gallon plug of mash liquor and the heat is more spread out. The odds of overheating even a little is drastically reduced by directing some of the pump output to the whirlpool to be sure the probe is always reading the average temperature of the heated zone.
If you're comparing a RIMS tube to a heated eBIAB that leaves the lower wort static, then it's an apples to oranges comparison. If both scenarios involve keeping the liquor moving over the element, eBIAB wins in ramp speed (faster), temp stability, and less chance of scorching.
Bear in mind the Blichmann 15 gal G2 with Blichmann false bottom has (rough estimate) 0.6 gal under the false bottom.
In current form, or gear availability more like, my options are
a) direct propane fire of the kettle with RIMS temp control by Blichmann controller lighting the burner when it calls for heat.
b) with the RIMS temp control using RIMS Rocket for heat and Auber EZboil 320A for control
Frankly, I'll probably use a combination of both. The propane/gas heat control to do the initial heating (maybe even boost with the Rocket) then the RIMS Rocket to zero in and maintain (and maybe step mash if I get real froggy).
In current form, or gear availability more like, my options are
a) direct propane fire of the kettle with RIMS temp control by Blichmann controller lighting the burner when it calls for heat.
b) with the RIMS temp control using RIMS Rocket for heat and Auber EZboil 320A for control
Frankly, I'll probably use a combination of both. The propane/gas heat control to do the initial heating (maybe even boost with the Rocket) then the RIMS Rocket to zero in and maintain (and maybe step mash if I get real froggy).
It's possible to raise the false bottom up high enough to install an element underneath. There are a few ways to get it done. I just modified a customer's 50G blichmann setup to do the same by welding a bunch of M8 nuts to the underside to use bolts to lift it upwards. I understand not really wanting to permanently modify a false bottom if you're not fully sure that eBIAB would be the best way forward. I do spend a lot of time and energy trying to convince everyone that a 240v powered eBIAB kettle is the best way I've found to brew after a dozen equipment iterations, but everyone has their own path in this hobby. One thing I know for sure, I will never brew with an open flame ever again.
