Any experience with this high-amp controller?

[jeeppilot]

I am putting together a 110V dual heater setup with (1) 1500 watt element on maybe a Brew Commander and using a 2250 watt element to help with the big temp moves. Ideally, I am looking for an inexpensive, single-stage controller for the 2250 watt element to switch it on then off once it is a few degrees short of strike temp, then heavy lift again up to boil after the mash.

So while looking around I found this controller that looks suspiciously similar to an ITC-1000 but with 30 amp output capacity and triple the price. Has anyone used ThermoMart before, or any unit similar to this one?

 

[augiedoggy]

I am putting together a 110V dual heater setup with (1) 1500 watt element on maybe a Brew Commander and using a 2250 watt element to help with the big temp moves. Ideally, I am looking for an inexpensive, single-stage controller for the 2250 watt element to switch it on then off once it is a few degrees short of strike temp, then heavy lift again up to boil after the mash.

So while looking around I found this controller that looks suspiciously similar to an ITC-1000 but with 30 amp output capacity and triple the price. Has anyone used ThermoMart before, or any unit similar to this one?

I hope you dont intend to use that to control temps on a heating element? It wont work for very long because it uses a mechanical relay which is designed to only turn on and off once every few minutes or longer. You would want a controller that uses a SSR (solid state relay) designed for the much faster on /off switching required to maintain temps. the controller you linked is most likely for controlling a large refrigeration compressor. or instances where temp control does not require frequent switching. the mechanical relay contacts would heat up and burn usually sticking in the closed position or no longer working.

if it had the correct solid state realay it would have a large heat sink attached to the relay and would not fit in the generic STC1000 case. I have over a dozen of these same controllers I use for things like chiller and fridge temps where theres a long delay in switching the relay.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yup, looks like an STC-1000, both cooling and heating functions.

The OEM version has 2 10A miniature relays, known for being subject to fusing. Not sure how their 30A relay is wired in.

For heating and boiling wort ULWD elements (e.g, folded ripple elements) are advised to reduce potential scorching. 240V 5500W ULWD are being pretty much the norm.

Why would you need a controller for the 2250W element, just use an on/off switch?

 

[augiedoggy]

your really better off with something like a mypin ta4 with ssr and temp probe which you can still get for around $50 but have to do some assembly and wiring.. or even the assembled inkbird pid controller.. its only technically rated at 16amps though.

 

[jeeppilot]

Yeah, I pretty quickly felt myself shying away from that unit. So I came up with this idea. A single Auber 2362 that says it can control up to 4 SSR in parallel. So with two SSRs, and two separate power-in circuits, I think I can do this? I realize in this instance, both elements would always fire together as one. But for simplicity, this seems better. Both power-in lines would be from GFCI protected outlets. In switch/outlet combo, the switch would power/depower the outlet and run my pump. Besides a couple indicator lights to show power to the element, is there anything I'm missing in this?

 

[augiedoggy]

nope.. keep in mind any pid can do this (fire multiple ssrs) If it were me Id probably got with an ezboil unit or a mypin pid but id stay away from the knock off fotek ssrs they are a real crapshoot with high failure rates... go with one of the MGR rebranded variants like the bermie branded ones.. you can get them for around $5 each shipped.

 

[jeeppilot]

nope.. keep in mind any pid can do this (fire multiple ssrs) If it were me Id probably got with an ezboil unit or a mypin pid but id stay away from the knock off fotek ssrs they are a real crapshoot with high failure rates... go with one of the MGR rebranded variants like the bermie branded ones.. you can get them for around $5 each shipped.

Good call on the EZBoil. And thanks for the direction on the SSRs. I hadn't really dived into them yet, just used the image for my drawing. Good to know to stay away from them.