Yes, sorry for not confirming that before. Plenty of space.GABrewboy said:So a 30qt pot then should be big enough?
You'd get some, just like we do anyways. Tannin extraction becomes problematic when temperature is >170-175F and pH is greater than 6 which results in the tannins becoming more soluble. The pH of the water, by itself, is not the issue pre-mash. It depends as well on the buffering capacity of the water. If you have water of pH 7 in your HLT with a low buffering capacity it will be brought into an acceptable pH range in the mash under normal circumstances. I would say for most mashes that the temperature of the sparge is of greater concern than the pH as the pH will generally be fine for the normal amount of runoff collected if it was fine in the mash in the first place.sebbeerbiker said:I bet you if I ran cold water through a spent and cold mash, had runoff with pH above 6, you'll get the tannins out! Why would it be different for homebrewer than probrewers? We're just mimicking what they do but on a small scale. We just don't get the same efficiency for sure.
Sounds like you have it all under control! Good luck then with the first mash.GABrewboy said:Okay, my setup!! I have 2 glass carboys, 1 plastic primary bottling bucket.....one homemade filter: I took a strainer, got some small screen from Lowe's and cut to fit the stainless strainer......put some larger handles so it will sit on top of my bottling bucket, then pour straight from the kettle to the bucket.....this helps me to both filter the gunk and to aerate the wort a little......seems to have done a pretty good job so far on the 2 batches I have used it with. I have been using hop pellets and just been tossing them straight to the kettle with no hop bag.
Most modern malts are supposed to be well modified. GABrewboy is using american 2 row and belgian pale. These will be 100% fine in a single temp infusion mash. Sure, some people (George Fix for instance) have stated better yield (extraction) using a step mash. I've done it, didn't see a benefit, and the extra work made my brew day longer.ajf said:Just a couple of points, one of which I find useful.
As I recall, you are not using British malt which is highly modified. As I understand things, if you are using an under modified malt, you need to step mash in order to develop the enzymes for the starch conversion. In that case, heating the water to 160+ degrees would seem to be too high. Admittedly, I only use British malt, so I am guessing here. I'm sure somebody else could give you better advice.
The second thing is that I heat the mash water and the sparge water at the same time, all in one batch. That way, I only have one lot of water treatment to add. I grind the malt while the water is heating - plenty of time. If the mash turns out too cool, I borrow some water from the sparge water. If too hot, I add cold water. I then have plenty of spare time while mashing (which gives me an opportunity to sample a previous brew), and the sparge water only requires a minor temperature adjustment.
This really works well for me (but I don't step mash).
Good luck
-a.
sebbeerbiker said:Most modern malts are supposed to be well modified. GABrewboy is using american 2 row and belgian pale. These will be 100% fine in a single temp infusion mash. Sure, some people (George Fix for instance) have stated better yield (extraction) using a step mash. I've done it, didn't see a benefit, and the extra work made my brew day longer.
Seb
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