Air Leak LOCK to Seal a Keezer Lid (Help)

[1BigBear]

New Large 14 cu. ft Keezer sitting at 38F. Showing signs of lots of water pooling off walls and onto floor→ even with a bucket of silicone (moisture stop stuff) - In a pitch black dark room I can see my light (positioned in the freezer) escaping though thin gaps in the front & sides. My wood (extending out from the keezer lid) forming that lip is only about an 1.5in wide - so not much room.
I'm looking for ideas on some type of L lock / bracket lock-down\ clamp (idk ) idea--- like an L hasp or angled hasp to fit near the front part of the lid near the -Red arrows.

IF the hasp pictured below, was angled 90 degrees that w/could work...but I can't find it anywhere on the InterWeb .

(yeah that lip... is kinda killing me now)

Any ideas?(help)

 

[winovino]

maybe a noob response, but do you have any insulation on the inside? a small 3/4" piece of insulation foam around the perimeter of the inside would probable stop any air/cool leak.
also i noticed when i built my keezer that the hinges in the back needed finagled in order to make a good seal. could be as simple as playing with moving the hinges about a bit.

 

[1BigBear]

maybe a noob response, but do you have any insulation on the inside? a small 3/4" piece of insulation foam around the perimeter of the inside would probable stop any air/cool leak.
also i noticed when i built my keezer that the hinges in the back needed finagled in order to make a good seal. could be as simple as playing with moving the hinges about a bit.

No insulation seal. Lid on wood. It does look like the rear lip is snug down↓ forcing the front lip to prop up↑ slightly. Agreed the rear hinges needed finagling and were adjusted, but obviously not enough.
► I'm really looking for a way to lock the lid ALSO, to stop unwarranted use of taps while dads out of town. -- → (but good idea)-

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Set some weight on the front edge of the lid, ( 2-3 bricks), after loosening the hinge mount points, and see if that lets it settle more "squarely", then snug your hinges back up, and do the light test again.

Can't help you on the unauthorized use of the taps........All 3 of my Boys are OUT of the house!

 

[Redmanll34]

I used 3 magnets that came off old speakers. and placed them in both front corners and the middle, to add weight to the front. They were heavy enough to hold the front down and make a nice seal.

 

[1BigBear]

I used 3 magnets that came off old speakers. and placed them in both front corners and the middle, to add weight to the front. They were heavy enough to hold the front down and make a nice seal.

So you added them to the inside And attached them to the lid? Interesting idea.
Must look like a boom box! Crank it up!! :rockin:

May make the lid heavy no? And it does not interfere with taps or anything?

 

[flars]

No insulation seal. Lid on wood. It does look like the rear lip is snug down↓ forcing the front lip to prop up↑ slightly. Agreed the rear hinges needed finagling and were adjusted, but obviously not enough.
► I'm really looking for a way to lock the lid ALSO, to stop unwarranted use of taps while dads out of town. -- → (but good idea)-

Use window and door seal under your lid. The type that is twin pieces of hollow soft rubber. Loosen the hinges, lay the seal down with paper still covering the adhesive. Check how much the hinges need to be adjusted.

Seal can form closed corners by trimming one-half of one piece short and one-half the mating piece long.

Use a simple butt hinge for the locking mechanism. One leaf fasten to the lid. The other drilled out to accept a vertical pin, from the wood surround, with a hole to accept a small padlock. Use anti tamper screws for the leaf attached to the lid or strip the screw heads so they can't be removed while you are gone.

The vertical pin could be the twist lock of the hasp you pictured.

 

[Redmanll34]

So you added them to the inside And attached them to the lid? Interesting idea.
Must look like a boom box! Crank it up!! :rockin:

May make the lid heavy no? And it does not interfere with taps or anything?

Hahaha just the magnet part of the speaker so no boom boom pow, but yes they are inside under the liner of the lid, really did add weight to the front. No interference with taps as it is all in the inside. If I have time I will take the liner off and take a picture.

 

[rhm_pa]

What about a rubber strap latch? They have them on those Yeti coolers, but they make all different kinds for different applications.