Aerating before completely chilled?

[BrewInHK]

I recently finished a brew session where I used an immersion chiller to get my wort down to 92 F (My tap water is 80 F so difficult to get much lower.

I then racked with a siphon to my fermenter - after which I aerated with an aquarium pump, filter and stone.

At this stage the wort was still around the low 90's.

I then used my cooling system to bring the temp down to 66F and pitched the yeast.

Ideally I would have chilled all the way, aerated and then pitched.

Would my method have any adverse affects?

Thanks!

 

[C-Rider]

Should be fine.

 

[brewcat]

Possibly hot side aeration. Aerating at anything above 80 could introduce HSA.

http://brulosophy.com/2014/11/18/is-hot-side-aeration-fact-or-fiction-exbeeriment-results/

I would think the only way you will notice is if the beer ages long term. For some reason it doesn't seem this exbeeriment addresses aging.

 

[jerbrew]

You'll be fine. Just another one of those things passed on about home brewing without evidence. When I see the science I'll believe it otherwise I'll continue with my life unchanged. And when it comes to long term aging who's to say it's HSA that's caused it. To be able to control the variables between two beers strictly enough to eliminate all but HSA as a culprit for staling is not only difficult but probably a waste of time. But hey, this is still brought up and argued about so whatever I say is a drop in the bucket when it comes to this discussion.

 

[CraftyBooze]

Did you buy a fish aerating system from a place like Walmart? Can you post a pic?

 

[BrewInHK]

Thanks for the feedback - was wondering if HSA would be an issue in this case even though I wouldn't consider it to be anyway near "hot". Will keep back 1 or 2 bottles but plan on drinking most of this one whilst it's fresh (it's a Hefeweizen)

@ craftybooze - here's my aeration system - I got it from my local homebrew store.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1471449881.782196.jpg

 

[brewcat]

You'll be fine. Just another one of those things passed on about home brewing without evidence. When I see the science I'll believe it otherwise I'll continue with my life unchanged. And when it comes to long term aging who's to say it's HSA that's caused it. To be able to control the variables between two beers strictly enough to eliminate all but HSA as a culprit for staling is not only difficult but probably a waste of time. But hey, this is still brought up and argued about so whatever I say is a drop in the bucket when it comes to this discussion.

I think it is wise to at least minimize possible introduction. I had a dubbel age poorly when I stirred hard to get down to pitching temp. I bet it was the first time I ever did it like that. At the time I thought I'd oxygenate and cool. I suppose it could have been oxidation from bottling, but I never had that problem before. Anymore I'm careful to limit oxygen during chilling.

 

[jddevinn]

You'll be fine but I wouldn't make it normal procedure.

 

[jerbrew]

I think it is wise to at least minimize possible introduction. I had a dubbel age poorly when I stirred hard to get down to pitching temp. I bet it was the first time I ever did it like that. At the time I thought I'd oxygenate and cool. I suppose it could have been oxidation from bottling, but I never had that problem before. Anymore I'm careful to limit oxygen during chilling.

I agree that it's easy enough to mitigate so we might as well.

 

[HomeDrewBrew]

I had two batches that i was trying to nail down what went wrong and when i looked back it came down to not cooling past 100F and oxidizing when moving from MT to BK then to Fermenter and oxidizing again.
Had a cardboard hot taste to them both.

 

[Qhrumphf]

I wouldn't worry about HSA. If you're getting oxidation, I'd sooner blame it on cold side, especially at the temp you're talking about.

Certainly not the end of the world (far far from it), but I would note that O2 would dissolve less readily into hot wort than cold wort, the same way that CO2 will dissolve less readily. Not sure how significant the difference is, if it's significant at all, but oxygenating hot will be less effective than oxygenating cold in terms of the final dissolved oxygen level in your wort. I'd oxygenate a little longer to compensate.

 

[jddevinn]

I wouldn't worry about HSA. If you're getting oxidation, I'd sooner blame it on cold side, especially at the temp you're talking about.

Certainly not the end of the world (far far from it), but I would note that O2 would dissolve less readily into hot wort than cold wort, the same way that CO2 will dissolve less readily. Not sure how significant the difference is, if it's significant at all, but oxygenating hot will be less effective than oxygenating cold in terms of the final dissolved oxygen level in your wort. I'd oxygenate a little longer to compensate.

One of the main concerns with "hot side aeration" is the oxygen interaction with the organic lipids that are present in the wort until they are removed by the cold break.

The saturation level of O2 in the wort is different at different temperatures and pressures, however the uptake time to reach a point below the limit should be nearly identical (if you don't go all the way to the saturation limit). Depending on how you are oxygenating you may never reach the saturation limit.

Not sure how significant the difference is, if it's significant at all,

see below solubility of oxygen (mg O2/l), at standard pressure. *KRAUSS, G. (1967) Proc.11th Congr. Eur. Brew. Conv., Madrid, p. 35.

 

[KepowOb]

Just a quick note on cooling... If you aren't already, move your chiller around a lot (stir or up and down), it'll speed things up and help you get closer to your tap water temp. I can get it 80 when my tap water is in the 70s.