Adding A Fan to Keggerator

[CivEngPE]

I am having an issue with my keggerator.

The keggerator is cooled by a chiller plate in the back of the box. This presents a problem as there is no air movement in there. So, what happens is the back of the box gets really cold before the front does. I am having problems with my kegs freezing even though my temp is set to 38-42.

I believe the solution is to install a small fan to assist in having a more uniform temperature. My question is, how to do this?

I want a relatively small AC fan. I was hoping to be able to wire the ban directly into the fridge so, when the external thermostat comes on, so does the fan. I really don't want to go with the converter solution. I believe AC would be much cleaner.

ANy Ideas?

 

[clayof2day]

You could probably wire up a computer fan a project box. I think it would push enough air to get things moving.

 

[david_42]

Does your kegger have an internal light? If so, wire a small 120 volt A/C fan (check a computer parts place, but make certain it is 120 A/C.) across the switch. Close the door, switch opens, fan comes on. Open door, switch closes, fan goes off, light comes on. At least when the external controller is on.

If you don't have a light, same fan, but connect it across the compressor's power source.

 

[kornkob]

Ultimately though I don't know how much a fan will help, really. If your kegerator stays closed most of the time there shouldn't be much of a temp differential between the front and back of the cabinet, unless there's a significant difference in the insulation between the front and the back (which shouldn't be the case).

 

[CivEngPE]

:WARNING BS ALERT:

I really think the issue lies in the fact that metal (the keg) has a higher coefficient of thermal conductivity than Air does. The plate in the back has only two settings on and off. when "on" it drops to say 0 deg F. If the air takes say 10 minutes to drop to the set point (4 deg) the keg will actually drop 8 degrees.

I have covered the kegs with old t-shirts in an attempt to buffer this effect and it has helped. I just think moving the air a bit will help stabilize the system better.


I was hoping to find a small computer case sized fan that runs on AC. That way, I could wire it directly to the compressor lugs. Anyone know of such?

 

[sirsloop]

Don't get your beer so cold Its got more flavor when 45-50° anyways

 

[CivEngPE]

Sirsloop,
I agree on the temperature setting for certain styles. The differential between my temperature setting and actual beer temp will still be a problem.

 

[HenryHill]

Where is 'delete post'?

 

[HenryHill]

Seems like a temp problem that is airflow related. I checked into pc fans when what I saw online from radio shack was minimal. I am waiting to see how big of a problem temp control is in my two keg fridges, but I looked into what is out there. Google pc fans, and you'll be surprised at how many types, sizes, bearing types, and quiet levels there are. Amazing variety. Some are voltage limited to run quieter; study up on the ways and versions that they offer before you plunge.

 

[John Beere]

While I don't have a fan in mine, you can look here to see how I installed a Ranco in my kegerator as well as how I handled the temperature probe.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=19596

If I set it at 33 degrees, it pretty much nails it at 33...

 

[CivEngPE]

Well,
I found an AC powered, PC sized fan for around $10!

If anyone else is interested here is the link.

http://www.buyextras.com/suac1180fanw.html

 

[Buford]

I did the same thing John Beere did with the temperature controller in my kegerator (stole his idea ). It works well.

I also have a blower in my kegerator to keep the tower cold, and it keeps air moving in the fridge. It's a 12v fan with a wall adapter hooked to it. The cord is run out the drain hole in the back.

 

[John Beere]

Glad it worked out for you. Good idea with the blower... I might consider doing something like that to better cool the tower.

 

[Bernie Brewer]

Does your kegger have an internal light? If so, wire a small 120 volt A/C fan (check a computer parts place, but make certain it is 120 A/C.) across the switch. Close the door, switch opens, fan comes on. Open door, switch closes, fan goes off, light comes on. At least when the external controller is on.

If you don't have a light, same fan, but connect it across the compressor's power source.

That will only work if the switch has Normally Open (NO) and Normally Closed (NC) contacts. You would wire the light to the NO contacts and the fan to the NC contacts. Nice idea, though. Otherwise just say the hell with the light, take the switch out, and put the fan on the light circuit so it stays on all the time.

 

[Yuri_Rage]

I like the blower, too - I need to make one of those!

For anyone else looking for a relatively inexpensive solution, Radio Shack stocks a 120VAC CPU-type fan for about $20. DigiKey has one for $14. www.jameco.com can probably beat both prices, but their site is down for maintenance right now. This pic is from the DigiKey site.

 

[HenryHill]

I had been considering this one. Waiting to see how warm tower actually IS. Really, if you keep the pint glass in the Sanyo door shelf, how much problem IS that first beer for being low temp? Anybody got a firsthand; I'm still waiting on Corny's...


http://www.buyextras.com/suac1180fanw.html

 

[LouT]

My first 1/4 of my first pour is usually a bit foamy, but I have never checked its temp. I usually chuck it out and start fresh, just because the thought of warm beer that might have some yuckies in it is a turnoff to me - probably just paranoia, though. I only do this for the first beer of the day/night.