30 AMP Auber Panel Help

[Psuscapes]

Hoping someone can help me with a recent issue that has developed with my 30 AMP Auber DIY panel:

https://www.auberins.com/index.phpmain_page=product_info&cPath=64_66&products_id=809

Running a 5500W Denrod 240V triclamp element in a Spike kettle.

I've previously completed 6 or 7 batches the system with no issues. However after the last double batch day, a few weeks ago during the heat wave, I started having issues with the panel "browning out" and resetting itself when I was doing a cleaning recirculation. I attributed this to the extreme load on the power grid and my AC unit hogging the measly 100 amp service. I decided to wait a few weeks to play with the panel again when the temps/electrical demand had dropped.

Fast forward to today, I fired everything up and ran a test mash run for about an hour at 160 degrees with no issues, however when I kicked the PID (DSPR320) over to boil mode the element ran for about 2 minutes and the panel "faded" and reset. I let everything sit for an hour of so and ran into the same issues, even when running just the mash program.

Couple things I have tested/verified already:

Seeing 115V +/- on both legs before and after the contactor relay.

LED light on the SSR comes on when the element is to be firing and goes off when the element stops

Panel does not shut down when I run the program with the element unplugged.

Did a resistance test on the element and i'm seeing 24 OHMS across the leads. This is a brand new element as of 4 brews ago, as I damaged the grounding lug on the first element while washing the kettle in the sink.

I've seen conflicting #'s on what resistance should be showing on these heating elements.

A little insight would be helpful before I start throwing parts at this panel.

Thanks in advance

 

[doug293cz]

The resistance of an element is given by: R = V^2 / P, so for a 5500W element we have: R = 240^2 / 5500 = 10.47 ohms. Since yours is reading more than twice that, it is defective. If we rearrange the previous equation, we find that your element will put out about 240^2 / 24 = 2400 W. Any chance you bought the wrong power element?

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

A bit more information for you to consider.

The light on the SSR only tells you that the SSR is receiving a control signal from the EZBoil. It does not indicate that the TRIAC (the solid state switch inside the SSR) is actually switching. That's why I always include an indicator LED wired in parallel with the element. This extra light tells you what the SSR output is actually doing. (I does have the quirk of lighting at reduced brightness when the SSR is off, if the element is not plugged in.)

Your kit did not include the "Element Firing" indicator LED described above, but one could easily be added.

Brew on

 

[Psuscapes]

The resistance of an element is given by: R = V^2 / P, so for a 5500W element we have: R = 240^2 / 5500 = 10.47 ohms. Since yours is reading more than twice that, it is defective. If we rearrange the previous equation, we find that your element will put out about 240^2 / 24 = 2400 W. Any chance you bought the wrong power element?

Brew on

Thanks Doug, was hoping you would reply!

Element is physically stamped as 5500w as purchased from this link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KCJX8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_fGluDbA47ZK8C

Would it still work periodically if it is defective though? That’s the part that has me confused. I’ll pick up another one and give it a shot.

 

[mongoose33]

Thanks Doug, was hoping you would reply!

Element is physically stamped as 5500w as purchased from this link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KCJX8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_fGluDbA47ZK8C

Would it still work periodically if it is defective though? That’s the part that has me confused. I’ll pick up another one and give it a shot.

If you want to try something different....here's the one I use. I have it in two kettles:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks Doug, was hoping you would reply!

Element is physically stamped as 5500w as purchased from this link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KCJX8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_fGluDbA47ZK8C

Would it still work periodically if it is defective though? That’s the part that has me confused. I’ll pick up another one and give it a shot.

As long as the element is not open or shorted, it should provide some heat. But, at 24 ohms, it will not provide the expected 5500W.

Brew on

 

[augiedoggy]

If you want to try something different....here's the one I use. I have it in two kettles:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm

I dont think They are different honestly. I could be wrong here as it would take an actual side by side comparision but.. Theres only a small handful of chinese suppliers for these and the dernord TC based ones appear to be the same ones brewboss had designed and made in china and brewhardware sells. Either they are from the same manufacturer or Damn good clones here. Even the etched voltage and wattage at the base is the same.. I think we are comparing the same thing from different vendors here.

I use a similar Chinese tc base supplier for both my 1.5" and 2" tc based applications (Yuling) and you can tell by the bends and the appearance in the base that they are different. Ive yet to have failures in any of the 12 elements I have even the ones Ive been using since 2017.

 

[augiedoggy]

I do want to add that you HAVE to test the output voltage from the ssr under load. you will not get reliable readings without the SSR actually having a load placed on it due to voltage leakage from the design of the ssr.

 

[PrrCabin]

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm

This is what I use
Safe
Simple
Perfect

Cabin

 

[augiedoggy]

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm

This is what I use
Safe
Simple
Perfect

Cabin

see above message. OP is using very likely the same element you are.
My gut feeling here based upon the fact that the element sometimes works is the element is not the problem. Most of the reported problems with these types of elements (regardless of vendor source) has been broken weld connections between the plug blades (including ground) and element. Bobby stated they had the design improved on the elements he carries but failures are still possible. Unfortunately since the op bought theirs on amazon if it is damaged, its an unknown if the seller will replace it at this time.

If the element was bad the panel wouldnt had "faded" before resetting especially with a GFCI breaker. It sounds like there is a loose wire or connection somewhere. since theres no load on the element wiring when not connected its still possible the issue just doesnt present itself unless the element is plugged in.

 

[golfindia]

Here's what to look for

 

[augiedoggy]

Thats a good pic of the ground failure but just a reminder that a ground failure like the one above will not stop the element from working. It will make for a dangerous situation.

 

[golfindia]

I did not imply that a broken ground will cause cause failure. I just said it's what to look for..... Obviously any of the three lugs can break. I've never had an Amazon element break. Can't say the same for others. Amazon's return policy is better anyway.

 

[augiedoggy]

I did not imply that a broken ground will cause cause failure. I just said it's what to look for..... Obviously any of the three lugs can break. I've never had an Amazon element break. Can't say the same for others. Amazon's return policy is better anyway.

I wasnt trying to imply that you were implying anything. I just wanted to point out and clarify for him that a broken ground lug wont cause is problem and a broken power lug shouldnt cause his panel display to fade out and pop a breaker either. It might possibly cause the gfci to pop if theres a short to ground but that doesnt explain his display fading away first. however a broken power lug could explain the intermittent element working and not working..