2nd All-grain brew: Better, but still some issues

[Rosshedley]

Hi Brewers,

I have just bottled my 2nd All-grain brew. I had some issues with the first, mainly that the alc. vol. ended up as only about 0.7 per cent! (See https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/first-all-grain-brew-observations.657725/#post-8432010)

I made some changes for the 2nd, notably:
-bashed up the pre-crushed grain some extra with a rolling pin
-put pot in oven during mash to maintain temp
-used a refractometer (a joy to use!)

I achieved a higher original SG (success!): Post-boil SG was 1.045 (which oddly went up to 1.047 when cooled to 32 degrees C - I thought refractometer was not supposed to be affected by temperature of liquid.). Post-boil SG was supposed to be 1.050 to leave a 5.2 per cent alc. vol., but I was happier with a lower SG, assuming beer would come out at around 4.5 (https://www.beercraftr.com/1-gallon-session-ipa-recipe/), but my final SG was higher than expected: 1.022 (bottled after 2 weeks 4 days) so beer ended up being only 3 per cent. Much better, but I would have liked closer to 4. What could be going on?

I have put two carbonation drops in each of the 500ml bottles. Does this increase the alc. vol. noticeably, and if so, is there a piece of maths I can use to work out the increase? I did notice with first batch (and second batch appears to be doing same even after only 1 day in bottle) that there was more sediment in the bottom of bottles than when I used extract.

Any pointers hugely appreciated.

Ross

 

[Rosshedley]

To clarify: when I mention extract in the last sentence, I am referring to an extract brew, as opposed to using extract instead of carbonation drops for conditioning.

 

[beer-me-now]

Read both of your threads and these are my thoughts.

You came close to reaching SG of 1.050 so maybe your mashing technique is good enough but try looking up videos on youtube for further tips and tricks to see if your process can be improved.

You mentioned steeping in your first thread so I'm assuming you are brewing in a bag. If you are using a bag are you just filling the bag with grain then dunking it into the water like a big tea bag or do you have your bag stretched over the kettle and slowly stirring in the grains to avoid dough balls?

You mentioned putting pot in the oven to maintain temp, did you put the lid on on the pot, did you take the temperature at any point during the mash, did you take the temperature after the mash/before the boil? Also, have you tested your thermometer at all to make sure it's calibrated?

Your final SG you mentioned (more commonly called FG for final gravity) was way off at 1.022 instead of 1.011 and that should be more of the focus for solving your issue I think.

What yeast did you use, was it stored properly, was it past expiration, how much of the yeast did you use?

What are you using to ferment in (a bucket or a carboy), also where are you keeping it during fermentation and are you using any type of temperature control?

 

[Rosshedley]

Thanks beer-me-now

Just focusing on the primary issue of high FG:

-What yeast did you use, was it stored properly, was it past expiration, how much of the yeast did you use?

Safale US 0.5, stored in cupboard in the protective packet it comes in, did not check date but was recently brought, used the whole sachet.

-What are you using to ferment in (a bucket or a carboy), alsowhere are you keeping it during fermentation and are you using any type of temperature control?

A three gallon bucket with lid and airlock. Airlock never bubbles, but lid swells for first day or two of fermentation. A fair bit of headspace with these 1 gallon recipes I am doing. Keeping in airing cupboard, but no temp control.

Ross

 

[probablynotnick]

A whole sachet in a 1 gallon batch is a BUNCH of yeast for a 1 gallon batch of 1.050 SG beer... I don't think that it would be causing the high FG that you're experiencing though. Does the temperature in your cupboard stay fairly stable around room temperature (17-20 deg C)?
One easy way to start getting better temperature control is to use a plastic insulated cooler, and stand it up on end so that the top opens like a door. Place your bucket inside and the insulation will help keep it warm, or place bags of ice next to the bucket to cool it down.

 

[beer-me-now]

US-05 has a recommended fermentation temperature range of 15 to 24° C. Is it possible your fermentation bucket was stored WAY outside of that temp range in either direction? I'm not familiar with the term you used "airing cupboard" but find out what the usual temperature is in that cupboard.

It is slightly possible that the yeast was WAY past expiration or stored poorly before you even purchased it also - depends on where you purchased it - eBay/Amazon or a reputable home brew supply website or store.

You extracted enough sugar from the grain but the yeast were not happy enough for some reason to eat as much as they should have and therefore you didn't get as much alcohol in your beer as you should have in turn.

Next batch, try a similar recipe again, be sure the yeast you buy is not expired and keep it in the fridge until you use it. After pitching the yeast in your next batch make sure your fermentation bucket is kept in a cool dark place within the recommended temp range. Also look into acquiring a 1 gallon glass or plastic carboy/jug (you can even rig up a 1 gallon plastic water bottle from the grocery store).

 

[seatazzz]

I'll echo on the above, and it sounds like your yeast either stalled out due to temperature fluctuations or were just not fresh enough. How did you pitch? Meaning, did you just dump the yeast in the wort, or did you rehydrate it? There are differing schools of thought on this; many people have great luck with both methods. Depending on where you bought your yeast, you can never be sure that it was stored properly before it came to you. Rehydrating your dry yeast with room temp (not hot, not cold, about 75-80 degrees) water about an hour before you're ready to pitch will give you a good idea of your yeast's viability. An even better method (that I use with great results) is to do a vitality starter; namely, once your wort is on the boil, take some out with a heavy pyrex measuring cup and cool it in your fridge or freezer down to about 75-80 degrees. Pitch your yeast in that as soon as it's cool enough, and either shake it or stir it well with a sanitized spoon. This will give your yeast a good head start.

Another question to ask, and forgive me if you already mentioned it; what temperature was your wort at when you pitched? Too cold, and the yeast will start sluggishly and some will just quit on you. Too hot, and you'll kill a lot of them leaving what's left having to work too hard, which can produce some nasty off-flavors in your finished beer. Yeast can be quite forgiving, but you have to give them a fighting chance at the beginning of fermentation. I know, a lot of factors to consider, but very important.

*edit* 32c = 89.6F which is WAY too high of a temperature to pitch at. Yeast died off and that is probably the reason for the low FG. Aim for pitching temperature of about 65-70 and you should be good.

 

[Beholder]

Bear in mind if you are measuring FG with a refractometer, the alcohol present will push up the index of refraction and lead to a higher measurement.

Brewers Friend has a nice calculator to address this

https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/

You may not be as far off as you think.

 

[ebbelwoi]

Bear in mind if you are measuring FG with a refractometer, the alcohol present will push up the index of refraction and lead to a higher measurement.

Brewers Friend has a nice calculator to address this

https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/

You may not be as far off as you think.

Exactly this! You need to use a calculator like that every time you take a measurment with a refractometer (execpt of course the first time). You have to enter the original brix and then your current readying in the box below it.

If your starting Brix is, say 11.7, that'll get you an SG of about 1.045.
Then a reading near the end of fermentation of 5.7 will get you NOT the 1.022 you're thinking, but rather a correct Brix of 2.13, 1.008 FG and a nice 5.2% ABV.

Do check it out.