2 Weeks Later and FG is WACK!

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tom_m

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Hi,

So I had a strong fermentation after the first day...There was activity.
This is a hefe weizen. It's original gravity was 1.038

Took a reading 2 weeks later and the gravity is 1.1 !!
Doesn't taste so good either.
Smells sweet, banana ish almost, kinda like beer.

Anything immediately apparent that I did wrong?

Thanks.
 
Your gravity reading is wrong. A beer can't go from 1.038 to 1.1 without adding something.
 
also weighed water it was 1.0 ... a little under 1.0 actually. i guestimated temperature, going to assume that's where it was off...but i'm assuming the hydrometer is accurate
 
is it possible the yeast died and all the wort and materials in suspension sank and settled? and i'm weighing almost complete water?
 
We wouldn't kid you, you made beer. Unless it's broken, you are reading your hydrometer wrong. Your yeast has done it's job and now you have green, uncarbonated beer. Green, uncarbonated beer doesn't taste that good but it will after a few weeks in the bottle.
 
it wasn't pitch black during fermentation but was in a closet. cool. the temperature here doesn't jump that much, it gets cool over night, but in the closet without the direct light it's going to stay the same. not too hot not too cold...
 
so... i have to continue to take readings now before bottling? it's been 2 weeks.
and my kit didn't really come with instructions, guess i have to read some books about this bottling process, i have to add sugar? (sugar would seem to improve the taste)
 
Looks fine. RDWHAHB! So you've taken two readings that were both at 1.01? How far apart were the readings? If you took them a day or more apart I'd say you're fermentation is done. You could bottle now, but another week on the yeast couldn't hurt as the yeast continue to do things that help clean up the beer.

When you go to bottle you have to add sugar, either to the bottling bucket or a small amount to each bottle, which is a PITA! The sugar is there for the yeast to form CO2, which will carbonate your beer in the bottles. Leave it in the bottles for at least three weeks, at 70 degrees, before even thinking about sampling. How big is your batch? You need to add the right amount of sugar. Not enough and you get little to no carbonation. Too much and you get exploding bottles.

EDIT: I see that you're brewing a hefeweizen. If fermentation is done you could probably go ahead and bottle now. I believe wheat bears are best consumed young. However, I've only brewed one so far and am not an expert on the style.
 
I'm at less than 5 gallons now because I took some out during fermentation when it overflowed (it was the middle of the night and I had no setup for a blow off). So about 4 and a half gallons.

This was my first reading today. Wish I took one the other night. Would have loved to bottle over the weekend...Maybe I still can tomorrow if it's the same? ...and really another two weeks in the bottle? I thought I read 3-5 days... I get such conflicting information everywhere I turn. If I let sit in a bottle from tomorrow until next weekend, will it taste like crap? Or just get better after more time kinda thing like wine?
 
I'm at less than 5 gallons now because I took some out during fermentation when it overflowed (it was the middle of the night and I had no setup for a blow off). So about 4 and a half gallons.

This was my first reading today. Wish I took one the other night. Would have loved to bottle over the weekend...Maybe I still can tomorrow if it's the same? ...and really another two weeks in the bottle? I thought I read 3-5 days... I get such conflicting information everywhere I turn. If I let sit in a bottle from tomorrow until next weekend, will it taste like crap? Or just get better after more time kinda thing like wine?

Take another one tomorrow, if it hasn't changed I'd probably bottle. Some people take up to three readings before bottling. I have always taken one reading and then a second one two days later. If they're both the same, and where I would expect them to be for a final gravity reading, I go ahead and bottle.

Do you have a bottling bucket? If so, you need to dissolve a little corn sugar in some boiling water and while transferring your beer into the bottling bucket pour the sugar water mixture in. The swirling motion of the transfer is usually enough to mix everything. You could also stir gently with a sanitized spoon to be sure.

Carbonation can be done to style, but a lot of people tend to just use 4 to 5 ounces of corn sugar per five gallons. For your beer 4 ounces of corn sugar would probably be fine. If you're using table sugar the amount is slightly different, I don't have the calculation right on top of my head. Is this a kit? If so, did it come with a little bag labelled priming sugar? If so, it is usually a 4 ounce bag of corn sugar. In that case, you're golden. If not, you will need to either get some corn sugar or regular cane sugar, remember the amount of cane/table sugar will be different. If you're priming the bottles individually, you'll need to pour a small amount of sugar in each bottle based on your bottle size. If that's your plan, what size are your bottles?

As far as time, they will need at least three weeks at 70 degrees to carbonate. They MAY be carbed in two weeks, but I always wait the full three weeks. At three weeks I think a hefe should be pretty drinkable. Some of my other beers don't really start to taste good until about four weeks in the bottle.
 
Hi,

This is a hefe weizen...Doesn't taste so good either.
Smells sweet, banana ish almost, kinda like beer.

Anything immediately apparent that I did wrong?

Thanks.

BJCP 2008 Style Guidelines - Category 15

15A. Weizen/Weissbier
Aroma: Moderate to strong phenols (usually clove) and fruity esters (usually banana). The balance and intensity of the phenol and ester components can vary but the best examples are reasonably balanced and fairly prominent. Noble hop character ranges from low to none. A light to moderate wheat aroma (which might be perceived as bready or grainy) may be present but other malt characteristics should not. No diacetyl or DMS. Optional, but acceptable, aromatics can include a light, citrusy tartness, a light to moderate vanilla character, and/or a low bubblegum aroma. None of these optional characteristics should be high or dominant, but often can add to the complexity and balance.

Appearance: Pale straw to very dark gold in color. A very thick, moussy, long-lasting white head is characteristic. The high protein content of wheat impairs clarity in an unfiltered beer, although the level of haze is somewhat variable. A beer “mit hefe” is also cloudy from suspended yeast sediment (which should be roused before drinking). The filtered Krystal version has no yeast and is brilliantly clear.

Flavor: Low to moderately strong banana and clove flavor. The balance and intensity of the phenol and ester components can vary but the best examples are reasonably balanced and fairly prominent. Optionally, a very light to moderate vanilla character and/or low bubblegum notes can accentuate the banana flavor, sweetness and roundness; neither should be dominant if present. The soft, somewhat bready or grainy flavor of wheat is complementary, as is a slightly sweet Pils malt character. Hop flavor is very low to none, and hop bitterness is very low to moderately low. A tart, citrusy character from yeast and high carbonation is often present. Well rounded, flavorful palate with a relatively dry finish. No diacetyl or DMS.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body; never heavy. Suspended yeast may increase the perception of body. The texture of wheat imparts the sensation of a fluffy, creamy fullness that may progress to a light, spritzy finish aided by high carbonation. Always effervescent.

Overall Impression: A pale, spicy, fruity, refreshing wheat-based ale.

Comments: These are refreshing, fast-maturing beers that are lightly hopped and show a unique banana-and-clove yeast character. These beers often don’t age well and are best enjoyed while young and fresh. The version “mit hefe” is served with yeast sediment stirred in; the krystal version is filtered for excellent clarity. Bottles with yeast are traditionally swirled or gently rolled prior to serving. The character of a krystal weizen is generally fruitier and less phenolic than that of the hefe-weizen.

History: A traditional wheat-based ale originating in Southern Germany that is a specialty for summer consumption, but generally produced year-round.

Ingredients: By German law, at least 50% of the grist must be malted wheat, although some versions use up to 70%; the remainder is Pilsner malt. A traditional decoction mash gives the appropriate body without cloying sweetness. Weizen ale yeasts produce the typical spicy and fruity character, although extreme fermentation temperatures can affect the balance and produce off-flavors. A small amount of noble hops are used only for bitterness.

Vital Statistics: OG: 1.044 – 1.052
IBUs: 8 – 15 FG: 1.010 – 1.014
SRM: 2 – 8 ABV: 4.3 – 5.6%

Commercial Examples: Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier, Schneider Weisse Weizenhell, Paulaner Hefe-Weizen, Hacker-Pschorr Weisse, Plank Bavarian Hefeweizen, Ayinger Bräu Weisse, Ettaler Weissbier Hell, Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse, Andechser Weissbier Hefetrüb, Kapuziner Weissbier, Erdinger Weissbier, Penn Weizen, Barrelhouse Hocking Hills HefeWeizen, Eisenbahn Weizenbier

I linked this information for the OP because I wasn't sure if he has ever tried a hefeweizen before.

tom_m I think you will also find this link handy.

How to Brew - By John Palmer - Contents
 
tom_m I think you will also find this link handy.

How to Brew - By John Palmer - Contents

Good link JalaPeno and good information on the style. A banana flavor is definitely common in this type of beer.

tom_m, take a look at the link provided. There's a lot of good information there. It's also available in an updated and more comprehensive book form. For a good basic brewing manual I also recommend checking out Homebrewing for Dummies. Don't let the "Dummies" label throw you off. I've found many books in the series to be very well written and I think this is one of the better ones.
 
VERY useful information! Thanks!
From the sounds of it, I didn't brew poison. =)
I do have to get some corn sugar (it didn't come with the kit) and sadly have to wait a while it seems...But that's ok, I'm just happy if it turns out good.

Thanks guys.
 
VERY useful information! Thanks!
From the sounds of it, I didn't brew poison. =)
I do have to get some corn sugar (it didn't come with the kit) and sadly have to wait a while it seems...But that's ok, I'm just happy if it turns out good.

Thanks guys.

In a pinch you can use cane/table sugar. I still use it on my Mr. Beer batches and prime each bottle by hand, but that's only eight one liter bottles. Bottle priming isn't really the way to go with a big batch. A bottling bucket is a must, and corn sugar is preferred by most.

I bottle my Mr. Beer batches at two weeks, but my bigger batches always go a minimum of three weeks before I bottle and sometimes up to four. The good news is, you really can't hurt your beer too much by waiting. Wheat beers are good when drunk young, but another week isn't going to be a problem. Get some corn sugar and give it three weeks in those bottles. You didn't make poison. You made beer. Drinkable beer? Most likely. Very good beer? Possibly. Excellent beer? Only time will tell.

WOOHOO 200 Posts!!!
 
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