120v Dimmer switch...

[SmokeyMcBong]

Hi all

I see that a lot of people are using one of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/370986823398?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&afsrc=1) to control power to their water heater elements. I've recently built an electric kettle but with two 120v elements (I run them on different circuits), and was wondering if I could use the same dimmer switch? The problem is that I can only find them in 220v, none in 120v it appears. Can 220v switches be operated on 120v?

Or maybe I can just get away with some other sort of dimmer, its only 1500w at 120v for each circuit.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[drewmedic23]

Just from reading the description, you should have no problem running 120v through it. You would have to get two, given the two different circuits but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work

 

[augiedoggy]

just keep in mind most of the dimmer switches at the hardware store to not have very high amperage capability I used to do maintenance for a large restaurant and we would burn out the dimmers all the time just because there were so many lights in each switch we ended up buying higher wattage dimmers from Grainger

 

[z-bob]

I haven't seen one with that high a wattage rating before. I've been looking at 3800W dimmers like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-0-220V-3...988?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item485c08ade4 to use with a 2500W 240V element.

There shouldn't be any problem operating any of them at 110V. What size element are you using? The limiting factor is probably the current rather than wattage (I also doubt those terminals can really handle 45 amps) So that 9500W dimmer will only handle about 4500W at 110V.

Do you really need dimmers on both elements, or just a dimmer on one and a switch on the other? Think about it; that would still give you infinite control from 0 to 100%.

 

[SmokeyMcBong]

The elements are only 1500watts at 120volt...


I thinking I would only need to have one of the elements on a dimmer at all, and an on/off switch for the other.

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[wilserbrewer]

The elements are only 1500watts at 120volt...


I thinking I would only need to have one of the elements on a dimmer at all, and an on/off switch for the other.

Thanks for the replies guys.

With a kettle large enough, you may not need any dimmer or control. With only 3000w for a five gallon batch you may end up running 100% with no need to reduce power...just a thought.
IME 3000w will work pretty well for 5 gallon batches.
A larger 10-12 gallon kettle would be ideal..if your trying to squeak by with a 7-8 gallon kettle, you may need to turn it down.

Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[SmokeyMcBong]

Yeah, that's the problem. Its just a 30quart pot, although it holds closer to 34quarts full to the brim. It boiled my 5 gallon batch of cream ale no prob with both on but I feel I could have turned it down some and had less boil-off.

 

[Brumateur]

SmokeyMcBong - That regulator will definitely work on 120V. The only downside - you will have output only on a second half turn of the knob. The first half turn give you no power.

 

[augiedoggy]

silly me, I missed the link when reading this from my phone and I thought you were talking about a regular 120v wall dimmer like they sell at home depot:smack:

 

[z-bob]

I just discovered these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MPK9JM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I thought all solid state relays required a control circuit, but this seems to have it built-in.

 

[mxstar21]

I just discovered these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MPK9JM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I thought all solid state relays required a control circuit, but this seems to have it built-in.

I am going to be using one of those in mine with a potentiometer. Mine has a coil rating of 5 vdc to 32 vdc I think if I remember correctly. The load is rated up to 380 vdc. Mine is Fotek, the one in the link doesn't list much for specifications, but I am pretty sure it would need a lower voltage for the coil.

 

[augiedoggy]

I am going to be using one of those in mine with a potentiometer. Mine has a coil rating of 5 vdc to 32 vdc I think if I remember correctly. The load is rated up to 380 vdc. Mine is Fotek, the one in the link doesn't list much for specifications, but I am pretty sure it would need a lower voltage for the coil.

Kind of confused by this? ssrs don't have "coils" they have a trigger voltage... the fotek you mention sounds like the Same $5 ones I use.... they are different that the amazon linked ones above.

 

[mxstar21]

Kind of confused by this? ssrs don't have "coils" they have a trigger voltage... the fotek you mention sounds like the Same $5 ones I use.... they are different that the amazon linked ones above.

Coil was wrong word choice. I meant trigger voltage. I have regular Fotek for my pumps and HLT burner, and I also have a Fotek that is adjustable just like the one in the link, but Fotek brand. Came with the same type of large heat sink.

I am at work and don't have it in front of me. The adjustable ssr's still need the trigger voltage to my understanding.

 

[mxstar21]

This is similar to the one I bought:



http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00899ALB2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



I am still wiring my panel, but getting close. I do need to check though, I read in another post the other day about a problem with these being counterfeit. I can't remember what to look for, but I will be researching it in the next few days.