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Hey, I've got something like that. It's 3 gallons though. I find that the spigot is really to high for direct bottling, for my stuff anyway. I really have to tilt it a lot to get a good yield on the smaller batches. So, I usually use it for rice wine instead.

01 RYR-repitch batch harvest-raw.jpg
 
Thanks I ended up buying one of these a while back and forgot about it. I got it at an off price store for $10 - the spigot sux but I got a new one off ebay - a Tomlinson valve, anyone ever use those for bottling?

http://img2.targetimg2.com/wcsstore/TargetSAS//img/p/12/93/12939080.jpg

Should work for small batch it's 2.3 gallons and I'm hoping I can go straight to bottle.

I keep an eye open for such things at good prices, no luck yet. Be careful to keep it in the dark, because it is clear. When I look at clear potential fermenters, I think of putting it in a paper bag or something.
I did have my first foam over from a 12qt pot fermenter last night.
 
Got a question for you 1 gallon vets here and, sad to say, I really don't want to browse through 300+ pages of this thread to find the answer (which I'm sure has been addressed at least a couple times).

Anyway, I've been brewing 5 and 10 gallon batches for some time now, but just picked up some equipment to start doing a couple 1 gallon pilot batches - this has even gotten SWMBO interested in the process for the first time, which is pretty cool. So, I've got my first recipe pretty well lined up - not much of an experiment to be honest, but more of something to get her involved - a Hefe with Orange. And I've run into my first real question: how do you go about getting the proper amount of yeast for a 1 gallon ferment? I've played with YeastCalc a bit, and it looks like I'll need 37 billion cells or so - do I just go and try to find the oldest available vial of the appropriate yeast, and then use roughly the right proportion of that vial? Or do I not worry about overpitching?
 
Got a question for you 1 gallon vets here and, sad to say, I really don't want to browse through 300+ pages of this thread to find the answer (which I'm sure has been addressed at least a couple times).

Anyway, I've been brewing 5 and 10 gallon batches for some time now, but just picked up some equipment to start doing a couple 1 gallon pilot batches - this has even gotten SWMBO interested in the process for the first time, which is pretty cool. So, I've got my first recipe pretty well lined up - not much of an experiment to be honest, but more of something to get her involved - a Hefe with Orange. And I've run into my first real question: how do you go about getting the proper amount of yeast for a 1 gallon ferment? I've played with YeastCalc a bit, and it looks like I'll need 37 billion cells or so - do I just go and try to find the oldest available vial of the appropriate yeast, and then use roughly the right proportion of that vial? Or do I not worry about overpitching?
Honestly, I think over pitching is less of a problem then most people think. I use mrmalty to do my calculations, then do a reasonable estimate with the volume of the yeast I'm pitching. Even when I've been way off, I still haven't noticed anything bad happening to my brew.
 
All the big boys over pitch. I am interested in running several batches so I just take a vial or smack pack and make a big starter. I either run back to back on a brew day or just fridge the left overs for the next few brews. The way I see it is a vial is good for 5 gallons of low to moderate og beer. We still do a starter so in theory, a 2L starter should be more than good enough for 5 different 1 gallon batches. If you don't care to save or stretch your yeast then just get the vial into suspension and poor off half or 1/3 for each gallon. If you are filthy rich then dump the whole vial and watch the fireworks. I accidentally pitched a whole packet of Lav1118 into a 1 gallon sweet mead years ago when I was just starting out and wasn't thinking about how much yeast I was really adding and I needed a blow off tube for quite a while. Mead tasted great and aside from a mess no harm no foul. That was essential 5-6 times the amount I should have pitched so that should give you an idea of how hard it is to over pitch. Under pitching on the other end can very easily cause problems or desired effects due to yeast stress or delayed start up. If you want that hefe to have some higher ester then under pitch. Hope that helps and have fun.
 
Got a question for you 1 gallon vets here and, sad to say, I really don't want to browse through 300+ pages of this thread to find the answer (which I'm sure has been addressed at least a couple times).

Anyway, I've been brewing 5 and 10 gallon batches for some time now, but just picked up some equipment to start doing a couple 1 gallon pilot batches - this has even gotten SWMBO interested in the process for the first time, which is pretty cool. So, I've got my first recipe pretty well lined up - not much of an experiment to be honest, but more of something to get her involved - a Hefe with Orange. And I've run into my first real question: how do you go about getting the proper amount of yeast for a 1 gallon ferment? I've played with YeastCalc a bit, and it looks like I'll need 37 billion cells or so - do I just go and try to find the oldest available vial of the appropriate yeast, and then use roughly the right proportion of that vial? Or do I not worry about overpitching?



Very simple. I usually just tak a dry yeast pack and use half. As always with dry yeast I use a glass of water to get it started. It also comes in handy if you end up making enough to rack into two 1 gallon fermentors you can just split the yeast. Or I will some times just use the other half of the yeast to make a 1 gallon cider or something the same day
 
I generally use half a pack of dry yeast for 2-2.5 gallons. Sometimes I weigh it, or just fold it in half. After pouring out some, I tape the pack closed and refrigerate it.
 
I've been reading about using a half vial of white labs and closing the tube for later use. I like this idea b/c you are looking at 3.75 or so for a small batch and tons of yeast styles to choose from.

On that note who has the best prices on white labs online?
 
Thank you. I have grown to dislike the screw caps

Can you share any details of why you've grown to dislike them? As I said above, I'm only just about to do my first 1 gallon batch, and picked up a couple 1 gallon jugs with screw on caps, and now you've got me wondering if I might've made a mistake...
 
Can you share any details of why you've grown to dislike them? As I said above, I'm only just about to do my first 1 gallon batch, and picked up a couple 1 gallon jugs with screw on caps, and now you've got me wondering if I might've made a mistake...

They arent as reliable to get a good seal out of as stoppers are. I would recommend stoppers. I have used screw caps as well. But if it doesnt seal onto a bottle right then your kind of just out. Thats why I am switching to stoppers.
 
Hey all!
I just started my first beer on Thursday, and already I think I've run into a problem. I'm using the 1 gallon small batch kit from Northern Brewer, and it came with their 1-gallon American Wheat kit. The kit is great, and very easy to use. The problem is that it's been extra hot here this week and what I thought felt like the coolest, darkest part of my apartment, the downstairs bathroom, actually turned out to be quite warm. The brew was boiled and pitched on Thursday night, and by Friday morning I had good bubbles going, and I went and got a "fermometer" from the LHBS just to keep an eye on it. Yikes, the fermentation was off the scale, and after I put an ordinary thermometer in the room to check the ambient temperature it topped out around 80 degrees. I've read enough and helped friends brew enough to know this is not good, and sure enough fermentation *appears* to have mostly stopped as of today.

I was initially going to let this brew sit in primary for two weeks as per John Palmer's advice, and bottle condition for two weeks, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't go ahead and bottle after a week and let it condition for three weeks to mellow out a bit. Would it be better to let it stay in primary in the hopes that whatever yeasties are left will use the extra time to clean up a bit? The temp has gone down now to around 77, and I'll definitely be using the t-shirt wick method for the next batch I brew when the weather is this hot.
 
Hey all!
I just started my first beer on Thursday, and already I think I've run into a problem. I'm using the 1 gallon small batch kit from Northern Brewer, and it came with their 1-gallon American Wheat kit. The kit is great, and very easy to use. The problem is that it's been extra hot here this week and what I thought felt like the coolest, darkest part of my apartment, the downstairs bathroom, actually turned out to be quite warm. The brew was boiled and pitched on Thursday night, and by Friday morning I had good bubbles going, and I went and got a "fermometer" from the LHBS just to keep an eye on it. Yikes, the fermentation was off the scale, and after I put an ordinary thermometer in the room to check the ambient temperature it topped out around 80 degrees. I've read enough and helped friends brew enough to know this is not good, and sure enough fermentation *appears* to have mostly stopped as of today.

I was initially going to let this brew sit in primary for two weeks as per John Palmer's advice, and bottle condition for two weeks, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't go ahead and bottle after a week and let it condition for three weeks to mellow out a bit. Would it be better to let it stay in primary in the hopes that whatever yeasties are left will use the extra time to clean up a bit? The temp has gone down now to around 77, and I'll definitely be using the t-shirt wick method for the next batch I brew when the weather is this hot.
How long has it been in primary at this point? Have you taken gravity readings?

Generally speaking, 3 days is adequate for post fermentation cleanup. Though it's unlikely to hurt anything letting it sit in primary for two weeks. On the rare occasions I've had a yeast cake break down and start producing off flavors, it's usually around week 6 or 7 in primary. On the other hand, there isn't really any reason to let it sit in primary much more then 3 days past hitting your final gravity. You might as well free up the fermentor so you can start another batch if you want to.
 
I'm not sure how much unwanted stuff the yeast will produce at higher temperatures, but whether you bottle early or leave in primary, don't wait for your second bath to start cooling the beer down. The longer it sits at high temps, the more off tasting it will be.
 
Hope I'm not repeating something that's been covered to death, but search didn't show much gallon pickle jars. Last year there was one thread on a pickle jar fermenter:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/diy-fermenter-cheap-347438/

I thought I'd follow up with my own experiences.

Looks like the original poster on that thread was using the same Mt. Olive gallon pickle jars that I've used. My grocery has been having them on sale for something like $3.50 each which is a tremendous bargain.

General observations:

The total volume is actually just a shade over 1 gallon, but realistically you want to put in about 3 quarts to 3.25 quarts of wort to leave enough head room for krausen.

I haven't gone the airlock route, just left the lid slightly loose, and that seems sufficient to let CO2 out but keep bugs out. The poster of the earlier thread went with an airlock, but I'm fine without it. After fermentation settles I can just screw the lid on tight if I want to let things go a little longer, for instance for cold crashing.

The earlier poster mentioned sunlight to kill the pickle smell in the lid. I left mine in bright sunlight for a 4-5 days and that's effective, although before that I ran a stainless steel spoon over the inside of the lid which really helped knock the smell down initially (FYI, stainless steel is also good for getting garlic smell off your hands).

I was worried at first that some of the pickling bacteria might stay behind in the lid, but that hasn't seemed to be an issue.

You get about 7-8 12 oz. bottles out of each jar. The max I've done at one time is 4 jars, which translated into 30 bottles. For experimenting or beers that I don't necessarily want a full 5 gallon batch, they're great. For example, I'm not a huge Belgian fan, but I made a 1.5 gallon batch with two jars that was just right. I also tried out several different English yeasts on the same base bitter recipe spread over 3 jars, and it was very easy. I'm thinking of making a small pumpkin spice batch for October, and again, a couple or three of these would be just right.

They're super easy to clean. Unlike a gallon juice bottle, the neck on these things is so wide I'd bet Andre the Giant could have gotten his hand inside. Getting rid of trub and krausen residue is incredibly easy. And you don't have to worry about scratching them.

I don't think the lids are going to last a really long time. I think they're going to rust at some point, and I'll need to figure out an alternative -- maybe sanitized foil, maybe big old rubber stoppers, maybe something cut out of silicone cutting boards, or just a piece of acrylic.

One plus is that I don't have a fermentation cooler, but it's very easy to stick up to 4 of these in a cooler with some ice packs to maintain low 60s during the summer. And when I cold crash, it's easy to stick a couple at a time in the fridge to drop the temperature into the 30s.

Also, top cropping yeast is extremely easy since the jar mouth is so wide. Lots of room for a sanitized spoon.

I can see how the lid issues may steer some people away from these, but I think for a lot of people, they're a great way to go, especially at such a low price.
 
Good information. I didn't realize you could get the smell out of the lids.

I haven't gone the airlock route, just left the lid slightly loose, and that seems sufficient to let CO2 out but keep bugs out. The poster of the earlier thread went with an airlock, but I'm fine without it. After fermentation settles I can just screw the lid on tight if I want to let things go a little longer, for instance for cold crashing.
When you make rice wine, you usually just stick a tea towel or another cloth between the lid and the jar. That lets the co2 out, but makes it harder for bugs to get in. If everything was clean in the first place anyway.
I was worried at first that some of the pickling bacteria might stay behind in the lid, but that hasn't seemed to be an issue.
It isn't universally true, but most pickles are made from vinegar after it's been fully processed. So there aren't any live bacteria in the process.

I don't think the lids are going to last a really long time. I think they're going to rust at some point, and I'll need to figure out an alternative -- maybe sanitized foil, maybe big old rubber stoppers, maybe something cut out of silicone cutting boards, or just a piece of acrylic.
You could cut a balloon in half, then stretch it over the mouth of the jar and secure it with a rubber band. Then just poke a few holes with a pin to let the co2 out.

Or, you could just stick a piece of cloth over the jar and sit a plate on top of it.
 
Well it only took me a week or so to read through this entire thread. Just brewed my first batch of beer ever, an IPA from BBS. My wife and I are already planning to do an AG blue moon clone soon in addition to a few others. Tons of fun!
 
Well it only took me a week or so to read through this entire thread. Just brewed my first batch of beer ever, an IPA from BBS. My wife and I are already planning to do an AG blue moon clone soon in addition to a few others. Tons of fun!
Welcome to your new addiction. :)
 
How long has it been in primary at this point? Have you taken gravity readings?

Generally speaking, 3 days is adequate for post fermentation cleanup. Though it's unlikely to hurt anything letting it sit in primary for two weeks. On the rare occasions I've had a yeast cake break down and start producing off flavors, it's usually around week 6 or 7 in primary. On the other hand, there isn't really any reason to let it sit in primary much more then 3 days past hitting your final gravity. You might as well free up the fermentor so you can start another batch if you want to.

I did not take any gravity readings (no hydrometer yet), but after a week of primary I bottled it today. There was a very small bit left in the fermenter after I got 8 bottles filled, and it tasted and smelled just fine. I think it'll be okay. I'm washing the yeast now because if they can handle the conditions here they're worth saving!

Oddly enough, I was going to start a saison this week, and the kit says the warmer the fermentation the better. Wouldn't you know it's been in the high 60s here all week? :cross:
 
I know I just spent a week or so reading through this whole thread, but I can't remember seeing a Cream Ale recipe. My wife is from Wisconsin and loves New Glarus's Spotted Cow (I'm a fan too) and I'd love to make her a beer similar to that. Anyone have a favorite Cream Ale recipe?
 
I know I just spent a week or so reading through this whole thread, but I can't remember seeing a Cream Ale recipe. My wife is from Wisconsin and loves New Glarus's Spotted Cow (I'm a fan too) and I'd love to make her a beer similar to that. Anyone have a favorite Cream Ale recipe?

Cream of three crops is a very Popular one on this site and with my friends
 
Another vote for cream of three crops - I haven't scaled it down yet though. I'm maybe halfway through keg #2 this summer. One thing to be careful of on that recipe, I've found, is that I get way higher than normal efficiency. I think it's from the flaked corn.
 
Made my first small batch this week and I gotta say I'm pretty hooked.

How about those that have wort chillers? Any way to use them to chill?
 
Just into the mash of my first 1 gallon brew in a year and I am stoked.
1kg pilsner malt
85gr flaked tritticale
15gr flaked oats
5gr Glacier@60
10gr@20
15gr@5
Saison Dupont yeast
 
Jsslack said:
It helps tremendously if you stir both the wert and the ice water.

That will help your cooling but you are stirring up the cold break (the material that makes your beer hazy & not clear in the bottle) - that's fine it's just you get a really nice cold break with an immersion chiller - I highly recommend them, I got mine for $30 or so bucks and its made for 3 gallon batches.
 
It does take a while to chill. I use plenty of ice, 16lbs for a 2.5g batch. Part of the reason I do small batches is to limit equipment. Also, my summer tapwater temps are in the seventies, so I need ice anyway.
 
For 1 gallon batches ,I just freeze up 2 of the 1 gallon ziplock bags full of water the day before. That's plenty of ice to cool the wort in the sink. For bigger batches I would use an immersion chiller.
 
Sorry if this has been asked before, but I haven't had time to read ALL the posts on here yet...

What do you guys use to make up for the headspace that results after racking off the trub in one gallon jugs? I have a Brown Sugar Bohemian Pilsener that I just racked to lager, and it definitely has more head space than I'd like (see pics - that's it after racking, by itself; and before racking, with my JAOM next to it). It's an original recipe that I came up with (too dark for style, I know), and it tastes great so I don't want to lose it to oxidation too soon! It's currently in my ferm chamber at 1* C (33.8* F) to lager... Will the cold temps help reduce the O2 reaction? I've heard of people using sanitized marbles to fill space, would that be my best bet (or something similar; seems like that would be a ton of marbles!)?

Thanks for any help...

image-4109430332.jpg


image-1135900177.jpg
 
I've just brewed my second batch of beer .. the first batch was 1 gallon of an Amber Ale and was yummy. Yesterday I did a 2 gal batch of a tweaked recipe. So far I've been doing extract brewing, but I find the extract messy to work with. I've got enough extract for one more batch and I'm debating if my next batch will be all-grain and just use the extract for starters or not.

I used a 5 gallon food grade bucked for the 2 gallon batch and had a glass carboy for the one gallon batch. What do folks think about using water bottles for the 1 gallon batches?
 
it's very easy to stick up to 4 of these in a cooler with some ice packs to maintain low 60s during the summer.

How often do you swap out the ice packs? This sounds like a potential way for me to keep temps down a bit lower than I have been (currently around 76, but I'm brewing ales so it's working okay)

~ v
 
I've just brewed my second batch of beer .. the first batch was 1 gallon of an Amber Ale and was yummy. Yesterday I did a 2 gal batch of a tweaked recipe. So far I've been doing extract brewing, but I find the extract messy to work with. I've got enough extract for one more batch and I'm debating if my next batch will be all-grain and just use the extract for starters or not.

I used a 5 gallon food grade bucked for the 2 gallon batch and had a glass carboy for the one gallon batch. What do folks think about using water bottles for the 1 gallon batches?
I don't see a real problem with that. I do small batches in reused juice bottles all the time. Just keep in mind the plastic is going to hold onto some flavors and aroma. So, you might want several.
 
That will help your cooling but you are stirring up the cold break (the material that makes your beer hazy & not clear in the bottle) - that's fine it's just you get a really nice cold break with an immersion chiller - I highly recommend them, I got mine for $30 or so bucks and its made for 3 gallon batches.

Correct me if i'm wrong but, i usually dump the wert into a fermentation vessel after i chill it mixing all the cold break into solution, then shake to aerate, further mixing cold break into solution, so the cold break falls out during fermentation not during the cooling process.
 
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