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One gallon exclusive brewer here, looking to upgrade my system to temperature control with a chest freezer. I'm looking for a machine that can fit at the least one or two gallon carboys or one little big mouth bubbler - is 3.5 cu ft large enough or does the hump get in the way? I'm very constrained for space, so smaller is better, as long as it does the job.
 
I plan on getting some 2g fermenters for my 1g batches.. should I be worried about all the extra space in the fermenter? Should I try and get something with less empty space?

I have used 2G plastic bucket fermenters for 1G batches many times with no problems. I believe the headspace does fill with CO2. I also do not open the lid during fermentation, just let it go 3 weeks usually. The little Big Mouth Bubbler is also nice, its about a 1.75G size and clear so you can see what is happening, which is nice.

Also, a +1 to using Brewers Friend for scaling recipes. Was recommended by a friend of mine and I have found it pretty easy to use.
 
Brewing my first non-kit recipe today, a mild-ish pale ale. Target FG 1.012, Target IBU 37 Target ABV 4.65
It's snowing in Atlanta right now so what better way to spend the afternoon right?
 
Go me! Nailed the OG - target was 1.050, my reading 1.052. Color is a little darker than recipe. Fermenting with Wyeast 1272 (liquid yeast for the first time - yikes).
 
There's no problem with using larger vessels for fermentation within reason. I wouldn't ferment a 2gal batch in a 14gal conical, but I ferment in 5gal corny kegs all the time. It's easy transfer to another keg for serving, no racking cane needed, no O2, and no worries about blow-off.
 
Hey it keeps me brewing. I don't drink as much as when I first got into the hobby and most of my drinking buddies have moved out of town so even a 5 gal batch takes me forever go through. I like the variety too.
 
I don't drink a ton of beer, and I'm just learning. I'd much rather botch a 1-gallon batch than a 5-gallon one. I am already upgrading equipment to brew 2.5 gallon batches, but until I get the recipes right at 1-gallon, it'll continue to be 1-gallon. Plus, I really like brewing!
 
One gallon exclusive brewer here, looking to upgrade my system to temperature control with a chest freezer. I'm looking for a machine that can fit at the least one or two gallon carboys or one little big mouth bubbler - is 3.5 cu ft large enough or does the hump get in the way? I'm very constrained for space, so smaller is better, as long as it does the job.

I have a 3.6cuft igloo chest freezer, it is holding food not being used for beer. The inside dimensions are 15.75in x 16.5in across the top and 17in down to the hump, too much crap to measure the depth to the bottom or size of hump. It looks like you can get four 1gal jugs to fit without touching. I would just do a shelf overhanging hump. Looks like you might not need a collar and still use airlocks.
 
Anybody have a 1 gallon recipe for a NE style IPA? Extract preferred.
I can find lots of recipes out there, but I'm having trouble scaling them down :(
 
I think small batch brewing like that would be pretty neat. That way you change up batches and always have something new to try.

I started out making wine in 1 gallon batches, eventually moved up to 6.5 gallon batches. You can get Mr beer kegs for like 10.00 off of their website. They may not be the best but for that price, hey I can afford a couple of them and stagger beer types.
 
Anybody have a 1 gallon recipe for a NE style IPA? Extract preferred.
I can find lots of recipes out there, but I'm having trouble scaling them down :(


If you have a 5 gallon recipe, divide by 5. If it's easier, convert to grams or ounces for small amounts. Hops are easier as grams in small amounts. Does that help?
 
Hello everyone. I started reading this thread back in November and have made it through the whole thing. Lots of great info in it. Not that I was able to retain much of it...

I'm sure I read about what I'm about to ask but after reading over 600 pages I hope you fellows won't mind. I ordered a few carboys and grains, hops, yeast, etc. from Northern Brewer with a couple recipes in mind.

Both recipes have a 2# grain bill. I am going to mash with 1.5 quarts to a pound, which would be three quarts. Then sparge with enough water to give enough volume for one gallon in fermenter plus my boil off (haven't calculated this yet). Does this seem right?

Also, I have not been able to grasp how to figure efficiency. So right now I'm just going to get to brewing. But when I do figure it out I want to have the information needed, even with these first sessions. The way I understand it is I need to take three gravity readings. Pre sparge, pre boil, and post boil. Is this correct?

Thanks to everyone for the wealth of information here.
 
I was going to mash in a kettle then put in oven to keep warm. Then I was going to place a strainer lined with cheese cloth over my brew kettle, pour through that and sprinkle sparge over that.
 
That will work, but I'd suggest using a little more grain and skipping the sparge. A little bit more grain will save you a mess and some effort.

Look into a bag, wisler for instance. Will make separating grain and wort a lot easier.
 
I brew 2.5 gallon batches and it's perfect for me! I get (19) nineteen 16oz bottles from this, which is just enough for the time spent. I like trying new things, plus if your batch turned out bad, you're not stuck with 5 gallons of beer to drink or give away. Also, a small apartment is a huge factor. Not everyone has the space for bigger/more equipment.
 
Planning on taking my first shot at BIAB over the weekend. I am looking to do a 2 gallon batch of a NEIPA. A couple questions:

1. How much beer should I expect to lose to trub/hop sediment? How big of a batch should I shoot for if I want to end up with 2g of drinkable beer?

2. I assume most people use BrewSmith? Anything special I need to adjust in my settings for BIAB? Any pointers?

Thanks!
 
I'm jumping in to 1 gallon brewing for my Year of Beer Experiments. Got a few 5L Fido jars on the way from Amazon for fermenting. Got a voile grain bag and a 5-gallon cooler for mashing. Got a 3-gallon stock pot for boiling. Got a ton of single-hop recipes lined up for testing. Got a list of things to test over the coming months. I'm really excited to be brewing every weekend!

If you've got a question about any aspect of brewing, PM me and I might just try to test it. :)
 
Planning on taking my first shot at BIAB over the weekend. I am looking to do a 2 gallon batch of a NEIPA. A couple questions:

1. How much beer should I expect to lose to trub/hop sediment? How big of a batch should I shoot for if I want to end up with 2g of drinkable beer?

2. I assume most people use BrewSmith? Anything special I need to adjust in my settings for BIAB? Any pointers?

Thanks!

I brew 2 gallon batches and ferment in 2 separate one gallon carboys. I start my boil with 2.75 gallons and end up with 2.25 after the boil. I leave about half a quart of cold break and hop material in the kettle and fill my carboys a little over the one gallon mark. I get about 20 and a half beers due to trub loss in the fermentors. I use the half beer for a final FG with my hydrometer and to taste the green beer.

I use the free online calculators at brewersfriend, so I don't have any brewing software.
 
Cracked open a bottle of Zombie Dirt (NB) at day 12 and it is amazing. I'm going to wait a few more days on the rest of them to see if it clears up a bit and maybe gets a little more balanced. So much grapefruit (citrus - citra hops used). I used Domino "dots" as priming sugar and it is carbonated just right.
 
That is a slick set up. Mind walking me through how it functions? Are you doing BIAB? Also what induction unit are you using? Looking to move to induction at 1.25 gallon as well. Would like to be able to use the same induction unit for up to a 3 gallon batch as well.


I have a bag but it's just used as a filter. It's a recirculation mash setup. I have a small solar pump and sight glass assembly and a false bottom. It's a regular hot plate burner, a Waring Pro SB30 controlled with an Auber EZ-Boil.

BK has the IC installed semi-permanently, i.e. Not hard pipes but fittings are piped around it.

Basic low oxygen process. Recirculate the mash the whole time. Hockhurz mashing.
 
I brew 2 gallon batches and ferment in 2 separate one gallon carboys. I start my boil with 2.75 gallons and end up with 2.25 after the boil. I leave about half a quart of cold break and hop material in the kettle and fill my carboys a little over the one gallon mark. I get about 20 and a half beers due to trub loss in the fermentors. I use the half beer for a final FG with my hydrometer and to taste the green beer.

I use the free online calculators at brewersfriend, so I don't have any brewing software.

don't rush transferring into the fermentor so that as much solids as possible will settle i the kettle. In addition to the grain bag I use hop bags. I let the wort chiller do it's part and minimize movement to keep exposure to air a minimum. I don"t stir and maybe twice or three times I'll move the wort chiller around to help heat transfer. I can still cool under temp mines this way. Once uniformly cooled, I pull the wort chiller and op bags and let the wort continue to rest, covered, for 10 -15 more minutes before transferring to the fermentor.

Also, you can even go up to a quart to leave behind. BeerSmith will adjust your grain bill and water volume. I'd rather throw extra wort down the sink than lose beer to trub taking up space in a small fermentor.
 
Cracked open a bottle of Zombie Dirt (NB) at day 12 and it is amazing. I'm going to wait a few more days on the rest of them to see if it clears up a bit and maybe gets a little more balanced. So much grapefruit (citrus - citra hops used). I used Domino "dots" as priming sugar and it is carbonated just right.

Oh how sweet it is. I drank another today and the heavy grapefruit taste is gone. The aroma is still there though which is awesome. Now the beer tastes just like it should - classic 312 or other Chicago-brewed IPA.

This is my first brew that I've been "wowed" by. Some of my others have been fine, almost good even. This one is really outstanding. I may have to brew a larger batch and just to have some around to drink for a while...
 
Thats great news!

I just put a 1 gallon Batch of Zombie Dirt, White House Honey Ale, and White House Honey Porter (all from NB)

I have heard great things about the Zombie Dirt. I had a 20% Coupon and couldnt resist the white house variety.
 
Thats great news!

I just put a 1 gallon Batch of Zombie Dirt, White House Honey Ale, and White House Honey Porter (all from NB)

I have heard great things about the Zombie Dirt. I had a 20% Coupon and couldnt resist the white house variety.

I usually just brew Caribou Slobber, but just brewed both White House brews from NB. Just tried my first Honey Ale after 3 weeks of bottle conditioning and it turned out great. Have to wait one more week before I try the Honey Porter. Btw, both are extract recipes.
 
Thats great news!

I just put a 1 gallon Batch of Zombie Dirt, White House Honey Ale, and White House Honey Porter (all from NB)

I have heard great things about the Zombie Dirt. I had a 20% Coupon and couldnt resist the white house variety.

Where did you get a 20% off?
 
Having a hard time finding anything solid on water displacement via BIAB. I have a 5 gallon kettle, want to end up with 4 gallons pre-boil. I have about 7.5lbs of grain. Is there some kind of calculator online I can use? Not sure if I can do a full mash, or will need to sparge some water in after the mash.

Thanks!
 
Having a hard time finding anything solid on water displacement via BIAB. I have a 5 gallon kettle, want to end up with 4 gallons pre-boil. I have about 7.5lbs of grain. Is there some kind of calculator online I can use? Not sure if I can do a full mash, or will need to sparge some water in after the mash.

Thanks!


0.32 quarts/lb for displacement

So your MLT Sizing needs to be at least;

Strike Volume (gal) + ((0.32/4) * Grain Weight (lbs))
 
That does not account for grain absorption, which is equal to grain displacement.

Strike volume = Preboil (gal) + 0.08 (gal/lb) * grain bill (lb)

Mash volume = Strike volume + 0.08 (gal/lb) * grain bill (lb)
 
That does not account for grain absorption, which is equal to grain displacement.

Strike volume = Preboil (gal) + 0.08 (gal/lb) * grain bill (lb)

Mash volume = Strike volume + 0.08 (gal/lb) * grain bill (lb)


Your strike volume is calculated with grain weight and WtG ratio. At some point in the beginning of your mash, when grains have yet to absorb water, you will be in a situation where you could potentially exceed the size of your tun.

I'm not sure you can claim equivalence on the grounds you specify. I've never seen strike water calculated using preboil volume as a variable.
 
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