0min Hop addition with a plate chiller

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ewpert

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Is there any downside to using a plate chiller when doing a 0min hop addition? Does the beer benefit from using a [slower] immersion chiller when I've done a 0min hop addition (basically since it takes longer to cool down, does that extra time in the wort allow the hops to add more of their oils/aroma)?
 
Is there any downside to using a plate chiller when doing a 0min hop addition? Does the beer benefit from using a [slower] immersion chiller when I've done a 0min hop addition (basically since it takes longer to cool down, does that extra time in the wort allow the hops to add more of their oils/aroma)?

Yes & no.

"If" the majority of the wort in the kettle stays in excess of 180 degrees, the hops will continue to isomerize & contribute bitterness to remaining wort in the kettle.

If that is the goal, then no problem.

BUT, if you are trying to impart mostly flavor & aroma instead of bitterness, you would be better off to let the kettle cool to less than 180 degrees prior to adding the 0 minute additions.

You could start draining the wort through your plate chiller once you had achieved whatever hopstand duration you were shooting for.

I am seriously considering buying a plate chiller but am hesitant due to this very reason.

Pros/Cons with everything. Obviously.
 
I just received the parts yesterday to add a re-circulation port on my BK, so I can do a proper whirlpool as well as have more control of my wort temperature after flame out. I use a plate chiller and plan to run the whirlpool through it to get the temp quickly to 180F (then shut the water off to the chiller), late addition hops for TBD time and then to fermentor. I also have a hop rocket between the BK and plate chiller that I use rice hulls to prefilter before the plate chiller (works really well). Of course I recirculate the really hot wort first to sanitize it all before going to the fermentor.

I started using the prefilter because a plate chiller is a PITA to clean if trub or hops get in it. And I use a plate chiller because it uses the least amount of water to chill. I have well water that is 62F year round (deep well) so it only takes me 5 min to go from BK to fermentor. The plate chiller is only 20 plates, but it is 18 inches long, which is the biggest contributor to the 5 min chill time. (It's the length that mainly controls chill eff. and the number of plates mainly control the pressure drop between the input and output of the chiller. The number of plates does add a little to eff., but not like length. If you are using a pump, then for a homebrewer pressure drop is not an issue. If you use gravity, then more plates will move more wort. Always a trade off somewhere. :) )

If being green is not quite so important then the counter flow chiller is probably the next best thing, and better than an undersized plate chiller. The least expensive, and probably the easiest to maintain and in my opinion uses a lot of water is the immersion chiller, and works best if you have some way to whirlpool at the same time.

All that said:
1. the plate chiller gives me more control of temp and time after flame out for hop additions and I can keep the lid on the BK to minimize hop aroma loss. I plan to experiment with different post boil temps with hops, so I need the better control temp so the brew day does not get too long.
2. the immersion chiller of the dunk variety will require the lid to be off more than on probably (i've not used one so someone who has should jump in), and getting to 180F or below will take longer, but still as effective for post boil hopping.
3. It's back to what you feel comfortable with and what you prefer as a brewing process as well as time vs expense.

:mug:
 
I just received the parts yesterday to add a re-circulation port on my BK, so I can do a proper whirlpool as well as have more control of my wort temperature after flameout. I use a plate chiller and plan to run the whirlpool through it to get the temp quickly to 180F (then shut the water off to the chiller), late addition hops for TBD time and then to fermentor. I also have a hop rocket between the BK and plate chiller that I use rice hulls to prefilter before the plate chiller (works really well). Of course I recirculate the really hot wort first to sanitize it all before going to the fermentor.

This was my plan also. I was considering an extra whirlpool return on my kettle for that very reason.

Which plate chiller are you thinking of? I can't decide. 10 gallon batches.
 
I use a plate chiller and have a poor-man's whirlpool recirculation setup that I use in the last minutes of the boil to sanitize and then recirculate with the pump fully open. Works great and would be ideally suited to a flame out hop addition or a hop stand etc.

You could cool the wort to the desired ~180F fast (1 minute or so) and have no problems with unintended IBU's being imparted by a prolonged exposure to near boiling wort. Or continue to cool for a flame out addition without a stand at ~180F

My setup
Pump and chiller 2.jpg

Recirc Setup.jpg
 
This was my plan also. I was considering an extra whirlpool return on my kettle for that very reason.

Which plate chiller are you thinking of? I can't decide. 10 gallon batches.

I have the duda diesel B3-36A 18" 20 Plate unit, but the 20 plate 12 inch will do if cost is a major concern. the 12" 30 plate is only several bucks lower than the 20 plate 18" unit so it was a no brainer to get the 18" 20 plate. If I was doing gravity, then I would consider the 12" 30 plate over the 18" 20 plate.

I consider the typical 7.5" (any plate count) to be a waste of money at any price (even if free)!

So prices over a year ago were:
B3-36A 18" 20 Plate $150
B3-23A 12" 30 Plate $140
B3-23A 12" 20 Plate $105


EDIT: There are some other threads that get into the pros and cons of each of the chiller types if you have not made up your mind yet as to which type you may prefer. But here the OP specifically mentioned the plate chiller with regards to post boil hoping.
 
I have the duda diesel B3-36A 18" 20 Plate unit, but the 20 plate 12 inch will do if cost is a major concern. the 12" 30 plate is only several bucks lower than the 20 plate 18" unit so it was a no brainer to get the 18" 20 plate. If I was doing gravity, then I would consider the 12" 30 plate over the 18" 20 plate.

I consider the typical 7.5" (any plate count) to be a waste of money at any price (even if free)!

So prices over a year ago were:
B3-36A 18" 20 Plate $150
B3-23A 12" 30 Plate $140
B3-23A 12" 20 Plate $105

Very helpful. Thanks..
 
I use a plate chiller. I will run the pump to begin the whirlpool without running chill water at the end of the boil. After this I turn on chill water and quickly drop the temp to above 170F indicated in the kettle (not the output of the plate chiller) and begin the whirlpool hops then kill the chill water. When this is done I turn the water back on to finish chilling and transfer to the fermenter.

Because of this you can do a whirlpool/hop-stand for as long as you like before completely chilling the wort.
 
I use a plate chiller and have a poor-man's whirlpool recirculation setup that I use in the last minutes of the boil to sanitize and then recirculate with the pump fully open. Works great and would be ideally suited to a flame out hop addition or a hop stand etc.

You could cool the wort to the desired ~180F fast (1 minute or so) and have no problems with unintended IBU's being imparted by a prolonged exposure to near boiling wort. Or continue to cool for a flame out addition without a stand at ~180F

...Pics removed...

Yep, the return hose held on by a couple of clamps is what I have been doing. I almost lost control of a hose once, so that pushed me to adding a port. :)

In fact that looks just like my BK. megapot1.2?
 
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