Fridge course adjustment screw

Hi all- just built a 5 tap kegerator out of a new (to me) 1989 Whirlpool (ET18HK) fridge.

It seems to only get down to 47F at the coldest setting.

I just adjusted what I think is the course adjustment screw... It has a torx head... Turning a few clicks clockwise.

Does that seem correct?

In photo it is between the orange and red wires. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456871821.005465.jpg

The temp has gone from 47F to 54F... Maybe I'll try turning anticlockwise?

You might as well try it and see. Those cold controls generally don't get adjusted like you're trying, since you've already turned it one way it can't hurt anything to turn it the other way.

I'm an appliance tech with 17 years of experience, if the unit won't go below 47° you probably have some other problem. Most likely a sealed system problem, but it could be a failing cold control. If the sealed system is working it shouldn't have a problem getting to 34-36°. If you do get it to cool down by adjusting the control... I recommend replacing it. An STC-1000 makes a great control, much easier to set the exact temp you want.

ButcherBoy said:

An STC-1000 makes a great control, much easier to set the exact temp you want.

Click to expand...

I already own 3 Johnson A419 controllers can that be used?
Would I bypass the internal controls and then externally control the fridge.

If I do that I guess I can't store my hops in the freezer section.

Bummer if the fridge is dieing... just finished installing the 5 tap install!

Always test the fridge BEFORE building!!

I had the same issue when building my first kegerator out of a igloo mini fridge. Found this image in another tread in the forum that helped me figure out how the corse screw adjustment works.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456937303.775723.jpg

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=249612

I think that is the thread that got me started looking for a screw to adjust.

The cup of water in the fridge is still 47.6F. So, the torx screw I turned seems to have no effect.

At least it may have convinced the wife to let me buy a new fridge. I'm only out $25 to dispose of this one. All the hardware can be reused.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456951346.256252.jpg

Maybe a free 27 year old fridge wasn't the best deal.


-Full Confession-
Also, my buddy and I made a mess of moving it. The 4 wheel drive truck was really tall and we tipped the fridge on it's back (where the grid of coils are). Then when we turned it over it was on it's top. (I drove home with it upside down for 10 miles)

So, I did not plug it in until the next day... to give it time for the oil and freon time to drain back down to the compressor.
I'm not a complete idiot.

Maybe I broke it? Well, not sure if it was in full working condition. The owner had it unplugged until just before I got there... maybe it was running warm before he gave it to me. It had junk in it and seemed to have been disused.

The fridge seems to run all the time, it gets cool but not cold enough.
The frost pattern in inconsistent.

Here is something I just read online:

"If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is running constantly you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.

What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out. It's time to call a technician out to your home, if you feel your fridge is worth saving. It may only require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT."

I'll add some photos in the next post.

Photos:
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456964358.509767.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456964374.547502.jpg

Well this explains it! Hope this helps someone else with a warm refrigerator.

http://fixitnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/39305150-Warm-Refrigerator-Troubleshooting-Flowchart.pdf

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456964838.512735.jpg

Laying a refrigerator over is never a good idea, upside down is a real No-No. That frost pattern on the evaporator is a dead giveaway, time for a new fridge.

The reason for the "don't tip it over" thing is totally due to the compressor oil migrating away from the sump.
Leaving the unit properly upright for a day will set that part right, so I doubt that's what the root cause of the problems are.

My bet is the unit was ailing before it was put up for sale...

day_trippr said:

The reason for the "don't tip it over" thing is totally due to the compressor oil migrating away from the sump.

Leaving the unit properly upright for a day will set that part right, so I doubt that's what the root cause of the problems are.



My bet is the unit was ailing before it was put up for sale...

Click to expand...

But if the oil migrates into the dryer and the cap tube, that will take the unit down because it clogs the cap tube and the refrigerant can't get through.

I'm with you betting this unit was near DOA anyway, it was pretty old.

I swapped the kegerator and ferm chambers.... Here are two photo of them in their new configuration.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1457190988.844350.jpg

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1457191004.578186.jpg
Now I am using the good fridge for cold beer and the "warm running" fridge for fermentation temps. I can still do 15 gallon batches so I'm happy for now.