Shank length?

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BybleTyme

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Building a 4 tap out of a nice upright fridge. Spoke with home brew shop and they mentioned to make sure I've got plenty of room to place a nut on the back and the connecting nut from the keg. Is there a rule of thumb on shank length?
 
I stuck with the 4 1/8'' shanks because they were much easier to find.

There are only concerns of length to make sure you can thread the locking nut as well as the nut for the nipple you put on the end.

Often it can be advantageous for temperatures to have a longer shank that can be colder, but longer shanks can get in the way as well.

If you are just going through the door of the fridge, I would just stick with the basic stainless shanks you can find at nearly all online retailers.
 
I recently did a keezer with 4-1/2: shanks going through a 2x6 wood colalr. The shanks intuded too mfar into the keezer, so I padded the faucets out woth a 1/2" trim peice between the faucet bezels and the collar to momic the trimnpeice i will (eventually) install. Worked out pretty well.
 
Hope I'm not resurrecting an old post here, but would you guys say that a 4" shank is long enough for a fridge door? Like William said - assuming it's too long, a piece of 1-4 on the inside or outside could take up some of the length if need be - just wondering really if they're long enough.

Thanks guys!
Tim
 
I recently did a keezer with 4-1/2: shanks going through a 2x6 wood colalr. The shanks intuded too mfar into the keezer, so I padded the faucets out woth a 1/2" trim peice between the faucet bezels and the collar to momic the trimnpeice i will (eventually) install. Worked out pretty well.

Let me try that again will spell check on;

I recently did a keezer with 4-1/2" shanks going through a 2x6 wood collar. The shanks intruded too far into the keezer, so I padded the faucets out with a 1/2" trim peice between the faucet bezels and the collar to mimic the trim piece i will (eventually) install. Worked out pretty well
 
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