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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Using whirlfloc and chilling wort post boil.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:47 PM   #31
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So this raises a question for me.

Is there anything at all as far as ingredients, hop residue, break materials or any boil additions that could cause any negative effects if transferred to primary?


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Old 04-24-2013, 12:33 AM   #32
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So this raises a question for me.

Is there anything at all as far as ingredients, hop residue, break materials or any boil additions that could cause any negative effects if transferred to primary?
I read something a while back, maybe 6 or 7 years ago, authored by Jamil Zainasheff that stated that he felt that hot break could negatively impact the flavor of the beer. But he didn't provide references or studies, so I'm not sure of the "whys" of that, or if he even still stands by that. Otherwise, I've not really seen any data that would suggest that hops residue or cold break impact the flavor either way.

As far as other additions, I could only surmise that things like spices would continue to "steep" in the beer, or maybe something like lemon peel might. But that's a guess on my part, and not at all based on science or experience.


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Old 04-25-2013, 10:24 AM   #33
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So this raises a question for me.

Is there anything at all as far as ingredients, hop residue, break materials or any boil additions that could cause any negative effects if transferred to primary?
Other than the actual hops, not really. In my experience, the more you try to filter or mess around with the wort to get rid of sediment/break material, the more opportunities you create for infection.

Since switching to a plate chiller, my primaries are loaded with break material, but my beers have been clearer and cleaner tasting. I just swirl the hot wort, give the hops 10 minutes to settle, and then send the wort through the chiller right into the primary, unfiltered, leaving nothing but wet hops behind in the kettle.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:04 PM   #34
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I let the brew kettle settle out the last 5 degrees or so of the ice bath. Then pour all through a dual layer fine mesh strainer into primary. After adding the cold top off water,I still wind up with some cold break settling out in primary. So far,I've had no adverse flavors,let alone any that could be directly attributed to cold break,trub,etc.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:03 PM   #35
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I'm bumping this thread with some results. Thanks to Yooper's reference to an older BYO article (it's on pg 3 of this thread), I did a side by side comparison, and the results are amazing. I used irish moss at 10 min remaining, whirlpool with wort chiller, and siphon off to fermenter, in as short an amount of time as possible. But there was a sentence in the article that encouraged me to extend the rest time of the cooled wort in the kettle to 2 hours before racking to the fermenter. I did cover the cooled wort with sanitized foil. I believe this was the difference, as the haze protein/fining matrix had time to settle out. The larger/heavier complexes settle quickly(the big clumps of stuff you see) but try to let gravity do some work on the smaller bits before you rack off to fermentation. You won't regret it. Brilliant clarity, and I have always had trouble with chill haze. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU YOOPER!!!
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:30 PM   #36
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I'm bumping this thread with some results. Thanks to Yooper's reference to an older BYO article (it's on pg 3 of this thread), I did a side by side comparison, and the results are amazing. I used irish moss at 10 min remaining, whirlpool with wort chiller, and siphon off to fermenter, in as short an amount of time as possible. But there was a sentence in the article that encouraged me to extend the rest time of the cooled wort in the kettle to 2 hours before racking to the fermenter. I did cover the cooled wort with sanitized foil. I believe this was the difference, as the haze protein/fining matrix had time to settle out. The larger/heavier complexes settle quickly(the big clumps of stuff you see) but try to let gravity do some work on the smaller bits before you rack off to fermentation. You won't regret it. Brilliant clarity, and I have always had trouble with chill haze. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU YOOPER!!!
How do you whirl pool? Also while letting it rest did you leave the chiller in the kettle? I am brewing tonight so I may give this a try.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:28 PM   #37
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While you're using your wort chiller, just grab it (wear gloves) and swirl the wort with the chiller until it makes a little vortex. It'll also keep your temperatures from stratifying as you chill. Once I had my temp down to where I wanted it, I pulled the chiller and covered the kettle with sanitized foil (I suppose the lid would have worked, too)
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:34 PM   #38
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While you're using your wort chiller, just grab it (wear gloves) and swirl the wort with the chiller until it makes a little vortex. It'll also keep your temperatures from stratifying as you chill. Once I had my temp down to where I wanted it, I pulled the chiller and covered the kettle with sanitized foil (I suppose the lid would have worked, too)
Cool thanks! And you have crystal clear beer with this method?
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:12 PM   #39
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Maybe this happens to me because I dont let the chilled wort settle and I pour everything in the fermenter. I do use a strainer bag which catches all the hops, but what about proteins? These make it through the strainer correct? Maybe I should let the kettle settle for 10 min after being chilled and then pour slowly through the strainer into the fermenter.
From what I'm reading, it sounds like you are pulling some yeast through your keg. Unless you let your beer hang out in the fermenter for 4 weeks, you're going to leave a lot of yeast in suspension. those yeast drop to the bottom of the keg as it chills and is the first thing to be pulled up as you pour. I get a bit of yeast for the first gallon if I choose not to let the yeast settle in the fermenter, sometimes in scary looking chunks. It's harmless, but can give you some stomach issues if you're sensitive. Chill haze should be knocked out by the whirlflock tabs and settle in the fermenter. If you read what Jamil says, and I agree from personal experience, you don't need to secondary your beer. With the small batches home brewers make, there is no need for it. Autolysis only happens in huge tanks with a ton of pressure(beer) on top of the yeast and added heat from the yeast eating sugars. Just try not to disturb the yeast when moving your beer so you can siphon it into your keg.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:00 PM   #40
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My beer is always clear until I chill it and the haze starts to appear.
That's why they call it "chill haze". The proteins that haze up the beer are soluble at room temperature, but start to precipitate out when the beer is cold. Given time, the proteins will settle out and you should have some really clear beer, given you're using whirlfloc. Some commercial breweries will drop the yeast, i.e. chill the beer, then filter. The proteins at that point have coagulated to a size that can be filtered out, resulting in a clear beer. I'm with the last poster, I really don't sweat it, I'm through half the batch before it starts getting crystal. But I do get the attraction of serving a crystal clear homebrew.


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