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Old 12-04-2012, 02:49 PM   #1
zmad2000
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Nov 2011
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I just finished my first Mash Paddle and was looking into putting a finish on it. I read about using mineral oil but i already have a beeswax and mineral oil mix. Its food safe and i was just wondering if anybody else has used that combo on their mash paddle.

My main concern is that during the boil the wax may leach out/off of the paddle. I was thinking i could use a hair drier to help get the wood to absorb the finish.

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:00 PM   #2
stratslinger
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Most, if not all, of the wooden paddles I've seen have been unfinished, spefically to prevent the finish from interacting with the wort in any way. You don't want the oils to get into the wort, as they'd tend to degrade your head retention, and you certainly don't want anything like polyurethane or the like going into there...

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:03 PM   #3
Golddiggie
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The person that made my paddle said to use JUST mineral oil (same stuff you use on wood cutting boards) as needed. You don't want other things getting into your mash (wax would sit on the surface, and most likely flow at mash temps). Just because it's 'food safe' doesn't make it mash safe or friendly.

BTW, mineral oil gets absorbed by the wood itself and just help to prevent it from cracking/splitting from getting too dry. You shouldn't use so much that it's left sitting on the surface.
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:28 PM   #4
zmad2000
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Nov 2011
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I am thinking of using a beeswax/mineral oil finish not polyurethane. I know enough about finishes to not use that stuff.

Would the wax and oil leach out after the wood has absorbed it?

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:37 PM   #5
tmoney645
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I would not put any finish on it at all. Even mineral oil and linseed oil will start to leach out at the higher mash temps. What type of wood did you use? As long as it is a good hardwood you will be fine without any finish, just rinse it off and hang it up to dry when your done.

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:53 PM   #6
GoodDogShelby
 
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Hard Maple.

No finish. Just the sweet wort that has dried into it after it has gently caressed those little sugars out of the fruit of the earth. Sorry, was I waxing poetic again?

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:14 PM   #7
zmad2000
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I used Maple from Lowes.

I REALLY want this paddle to last since i only had a camp saw, dremel and later on some files to make it. So there is a ton of SWEAT and a bit of blood that went into making it. My second one is taking a lot less time but i have a few more tool.

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmad2000 View Post
I used Maple from Lowes.

I REALLY want this paddle to last since i only had a camp saw, dremel and later on some files to make it. So there is a ton of SWEAT and a bit of blood that went into making it. My second one is taking a lot less time but i have a few more tool.
IF it starts to show sign of splitting, then oil it. Otherwise, leave it alone. I've oiled mine once in more than a few batches. I might not need to do it more than every year, or five. I'll probably oil the handle section more often than the part that goes into the mash.
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跟猴子比丟屎 ・ Gun HOE-tze bee DIO-se

On Tap: Caramel Ale, Mocha Porter II, MO SMaSH IPA
Waiting/Carbonating: 12.5% Wee Honey II, 8.9% Old Ale, English Brown Ale, Lickah ESB, Mocha Porter II
Fermenting
K1:
K2: Epic mead
K3: TripSix
On Deck: Caramel Ale
Aging:mead
Mead [bottled]:Oaked Wildflower Traditional, Mocha Madness, Blackberry Melomel, maple wine

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:29 PM   #9
Shooter
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I just use a butcher block wax on it when it starts to get dry. Let it soak in for 30 minutes or so and then wipe it clean. I don't worry too much about anything leaching out in the minimal amount of time it is in contact with the wort.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:33 PM   #10
krenshaw
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mine is unfinished.. i just hose it off when i'm rinsing out my mashtun after a brewday and haven't had a problem.. had it for about 2 years now
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