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Old 11-01-2012, 10:22 PM   #21
Ravenshead
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That's pretty sweet alien. Do you wire it to one leg of you power feed like an SSR or directly in-line?
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I had no problems whatsoever getting my pee to ferment.

 
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:23 AM   #22
alien
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I don't actually own one. I think it goes inline on the 220V hot wires.

 
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:07 AM   #23
crane
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It looks like you would wire it directly in-line with both 120V legs from the GFCI going to the AC input terminals and your heating element connected to the 2 AC output terminals.

If you are going to use this to control mash temps you have to ask yourself how good of temp control do you want. With this device you will have to fine tune the setting to hit an exact temperature, which may result in overshooting, undershooting and drifting over the course of a 1 hour mash. If you go with the PID controller route you can simply set it to 154 and walk away. If you think about it the PID controller measures the temp every second or so and adjusts the output to maintain the correct temp. With this device you will be the one looking at you mash temps and adjusting the dial to maintain the temp.

I'm not saying you can't get by with this, but if you are going to go throw the hassle of building a box to house this and buying connectors and cables I would say it would be worth the extra $50 or so to buy a PID controller upfront.

 
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:48 AM   #24
chuckjaxfl
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For the OP,

My system is pretty much what you're describing. I'm using a single element (5500) mounted in a keg, and a 10 gallon orange cooler. I just mash with the full volume of water. Check out the "I love no sparge brewing" thread by started by Sacc.

I'm using an Arduino for a controller, as I want to be able to continually add layers of complexity as knowledge and money allows. My plumbing & pumping is all done manually, I'm using the Arduino solely for temp control at the moment. It works as both a PID (to control for mash temp) and a PWM (to control boil duty cycle).

Admittedly, the cost of an Arduino, a power supply, and a display of some sort does approach the cost of an Auber PID. However, it is scalable. You can add more vessels and pump and valve control later without having to purchase more controllers.

FWIW, I agree whole heartedly with crane's last statement above. I don't see the point of going through the considerable trouble of building a control system, if it's not going to control anything for you?

 
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crane View Post
It looks like you would wire it directly in-line with both 120V legs from the GFCI going to the AC input terminals and your heating element connected to the 2 AC output terminals.

If you are going to use ...

...but if you are going to go throw the hassle of building a box to house this and buying connectors and cables I would say it would be worth the extra $50 or so to buy a PID controller upfront.
I use a PID for my elements. I was looking at this to control a giant box fan I built out of an AC unit I had to replace. Right now it has one speed-- huricane.
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:21 PM   #26
seatbelt123
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I would absolutely consider using this. I don't need a PID because my BK is well insulated and only drops a few degrees an hour on cool days. I typically just bump on the heat for 30 seconds or so at 30 minutes and stir. I would use this, lets say at half power for that step and then again to control the boil rate.

For the record I currently use two 1500w 120v elements and turn on one or both depending on what I'm trying to do.

 
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