Advice on Co2 splitting for Kegerator

To start, before I move on to a double tap, I just wanted to split my Co2 line so I can serve and carb at the same time. THe Co2 canister is located on the outside and what I want to do is split the line AFTER it is in the kegerator, rather than drill the hole out larger for a second line.

My friend had these pieces laying around, so I thought I could save some money and use them -



I needed some hose barbs, line and gas ball lock. I just went to a restaurant supply place and bought this but they didn't have the barbs ($8 for 4 ft. of hose?) -



Now, at home, I have the larger red air tube and now I have this thinner tube (which is really a beer line) that fits the ball lock they sold me (which I sorta regret - should have just went to the LHBS).

So now, if I'm correct, I'll need 3 hose barbs - one of which needs to be the smaller size. I know it technically would screw right into my regulator, but like I said, i wanted to avoid drilling into the kegerator. I was going to cut that line and connect it to one of the splits.


So, if I'm understanding this correctly...

1) 1/4 Female End - 5/16 Hose Barb > Into Y splitter (red air line)
2) 1/4 Female End - 5/16 Hose Barb > Out of Y splitter (red air line)
3) 1/4 Female End - 3/16 Hose Barb > Out of Y splitter (clear hose)

Now the specs for those shut off valves say they are 1/4 both ends - but they look different to me. What's the difference between MPT and MFL (i know what they stand for, but not the specifics)?

You really need to go to the LHBS instead of HD or Lowe's for the barbed swivel nuts for the output of the check valves. Those are MFL fittings on the end of those valves, so you'll need a barbed swivel nut like one of these:

5/16": http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/5-16-barbed-swivel-nut.html
1/4": http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/1-4-barbed-swivel-nut.html

For every metal to metal connection like this, you'll need a flared nylon washer...luckily, they are $0.15: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/flared-nylon-washer.html

The hose barb at the top of the splitter will be a lot bigger than the ones coming off the check valve...you might need to hit HD or Lowe's for those. And make sure to use plenty of teflon tape on that connection.

Do you know the diameter of that tubing? If it's 1/4" ID, you should be fine. If it's 3/16", then you will probably need 1/4" ID or 5/16" ID...since the 3/16" won't be able to fit on the barbed swivel nuts (I believe). I'm thinking that your red tubing is 5/16" and that the new tubing is 1/4".

I think your shopping list stands at:

Two barbed swivel nuts for splitter output
2 flared nylon washers (at least)
One female to barb connector for top of splitter
Clamps (worm drive or oetiker). At least 6 (1 at regulator, 1 at top of splitter, 1 at top of first split, one at bottom of first split to QD, one at top of second split, one at bottom of second split to QD)

Thanks very much! You input definitely helped me understand what I needed (didn't even know about the washers). I think I may just return what I bought from the restaurant supply place...

If I'm not mistaken, I should just be able to buy this(and the washers) and screw it right onto the shut off outlet.

So then, I can either just drill the damn hole or find the top fitting as you suggested. Maybe this is what I need for the top of the splitter? 1/4" Female NPT x 5/16" Brass Hose Barb

These are the clamps I need?(I don't really feel like buying the clamping tool to do oetiker).


Doing it this way, I can just order this stuff from NB (or check my LHBS) -

Gas Connector Kit - Ball Lock Version (This will screw right onto the shut off outlet and be ready to go, right?)
Flared Nylon Washers
5/16" Barbed Swivel Nut (this will fit my exsisting red tube and screw into shut off outlet)
Clamps - 2, I believe - one for the red hose that gets the swivel nut above and one at the top of the splitter (the others will already be in place)

Yes, those will work and you will only need two clamps. Yes, those clamps will work.

Do you know the size of the thread at the top of the splitter? If it's 1/4" (like this one: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wye-1-4-mpt-x-1-4-fpt.html), then this shouldn't be too hard.

Say your regulator looks like this now: http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb447/Armen_Tamzarian/PICT0084.jpg

You'll need that brass hose barb that you linked to go on top of the splitter. It's 1/4" thread, but then the barb is 5/16". Your red hose is most likely 5/16". Then you just connect the red hose from the regulator check valve to the 5/16" barb that you installed at the top of the splitter. Make sure to use plenty of teflon tape attaching the brass hose barb to the splitter.

It should be that exact Y splitter that is in your photo with the regulator. Yes, I believe the red hose is 5/16".

A 5/16" barbed swivel nut (1/4 thread) will fit both the top of the splitter and the shut off valves? They really seem like they are different sizes, yet they are both 1/4 thread.

I'll also need a regular nylon washer there, right?

I think I got it (it's missing the hose clamps - one for each barb to tube connection, but this should do it) -

EdK said:

It should be that exact Y splitter that is in your photo with the regulator. Yes, I believe the red hose is 5/16".

A 5/16" barbed swivel nut (1/4 thread) will fit both the top of the splitter and the shut off valves? They really seem like they are different sizes, yet they are both 1/4 thread.

I'll also need a regular nylon washer there, right?

Click to expand...

I think you need that brass hose barb that you linked instead of a barbed swivel nut for the top of the splitter. If you do that, you don't need a washer there. You would just teflon tape the brass hose barb to the splitter.

If you buy that gas ball lock connector from Northern Brewer, you don't need any swivel nuts...they already come in that setup. http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/...s/gas-connector-kit-bl-ball-lock-version.html

Got it, thanks....

I believe I would still need a swivel nut to connect the exsisting red hose, which I will have to cut in two pieces. No?

I thought you were buying two of those gas connector kits from NB to connect to each of the MFL connectors at the base of the splitter. If you are only buying one, then you'll need a swivel nut to connect the red hose to splitter. You'll also need another flare washer and two more clamps.

Okay, I think I'm all set, thanks so much for walking me through this!

Well, after giving it some more thought, I decided to just hold out and buy a proper 3 way manifold to mount inside - the Danby Kegerator I have can fit 3 cornies, so I might as well just go that route so it's there when I finally go to add additional taps.

I have the same situation. Thanks for the info guys! This is super helpful

EdK said:

Well, after giving it some more thought, I decided to just hold out and buy a proper 3 way manifold to mount inside - the Danby Kegerator I have can fit 3 cornies, so I might as well just go that route so it's there when I finally go to add additional taps.

Click to expand...

Probably a good idea. I use two manifolds myself - I like having the check valves on each output.