plastic control panel enclosure question

I'm picking up a plastic enclosure today since it will be way easier to cut into than a metal one, and easier to keep waterproof with the tools I have.

So for the components that are not mounted on the top or sides, but are entirely inside the panel, such as the terminal strips and contactor, how can I keep those in place in the PVC panel? Glue?

I figured I'd get one of those 6" x 8" x 8" PVC junction boxes from Home Depot.

NoCornOrRice said:

I'm picking up a plastic enclosure today since it will be way easier to cut into than a metal one, and easier to keep waterproof with the tools I have.

So for the components that are not mounted on the top or sides, but are entirely inside the panel, such as the terminal strips and contactor, how can I keep those in place in the PVC panel? Glue?

I figured I'd get one of those 6" x 8" x 8" PVC junction boxes from Home Depot.

Click to expand...

i was thinking of buying the same thing. so im curious as to how you will do all of this

What and how many components are you planning on using?

I just built one for my RIMS tube. I ended up going with the 12" box as the next smaller one was WAY too cramped.

Anyway, I took a 12" x 12" piece of 1/4" lexan, drilled a hole in each corner and used a bolt with two nuts (one on each side of the lexan) to create standoffs. I then used JBWeld to attack the bolts to the enclosure. Just attach the bolts to the lexan first, mark where they go, then put your jbweld in those spots and set the lexan in the enclosure. After it dries (24hrs), undo the top nuts and remove the lexan and then use a bit more jbweld to fully cover the head of the bolt for added strength. It also helps to sand the enclosure or rough it up where the JBweld will attach so that it gets a better bond. Components are then attached to the lexan so that no meatal bolts or other holes need to be drilled through the enclosure which could risk an short point or electrical hazard.

l3asturd: your setup looks awesome btw. My setup calls for one each of (Auberins): PID, SSR w/ external heatsink, contactor, alarm, indicator light, illuminated switch, pump switch, alarm switch. I'm hardwiring the Boil kettle and spa panel to the control box, at least for now.

DumpsterDave: brilliant, thank you

I would recommend that you shop on ebay and get an enclosure with a back panel. It will be easier in the long run.

I did look at ebay, as with most of the e-brewing parts, though, shipping to the East Coast of Canada was usually unavailable or rediculously expensive. I like this lexan idea, sounds easy enough.

Short screws that don't puncture all the way through, or drill the holes for everything to mount but screw from the outside in. The latter is what I did for almost everything in my plastic toolbox o' power.

I used the 12x12 and it worked great. Super easy to cut, rasp, and ream for a perfect fit of everything. As for mounting on sides and back, i just screwed through the wall, a dab of silicone keeps the screw holes watertight... at least tight enough for our needs. I don't plan on mounting the control panel where it could get seriously wet anyways...

do you guys have a p/n for the 12x12 enclosure?

Can be found at any big box hardware store. HD, Lowes, Menards...

Carlon E989 Junction box - 12 x 12 x 6.

You could use a 12x12 metal backplane, mounted on plastic standoffs inside the box. This part is the same one found in most of the metal enclosures, and you can use a tap and die set to create threaded holes for fastening internal components.

http://www.platt.com/platt-electric...sures/Hoffman/A12N12P/product.aspx?zpid=26884

A 5-position ground bar mounted (grounded) to metal backplane will allow you to keep ground continuity if all external connections are tied in to it.

That carlon box has a max temp rating of ~173F I believe. So be sure your SSRs are properly mounted, with a fan or something. With a 5500w element I temped the heat sink at 190F (for the little cheap sinks you get when you buy the SSR/Sink combo on ebay).

Doubt it would do more than smolder or denature and melt the carlon with direct contact, but just sayin'

If I remember though, though boxes are like $33 or something. Not much of a leap to get into a decently sized metal enclosure.

I've used these PVC boxes on a couple projects. They are cheaper and easier to cut/drill but have other drawbacks when compared to metal enclosures. I am sticking with the metal ones. I'll pay a little more upfront for convenience.
My 2 cents.