Originally Posted by Brickout
P-J, thanks for catching that.
Looking at the spec's on that switch is listed at, "Contact Rating @ 250V (Amps) - 15".
This is O K to use? Not that I'm questioning you. I just want to make sure I'm getting the correct switch.
Originally Posted by P-J
Those switches are fine for our application as the voltage measured to ground from any point is 120V. Both 120V phases are open whenever the switch is off and therefore the voltage across the switch points when off would still not be 240V (Zero in fact). It is more than capable of carring the current needed (25A).
Hope this makes sense & helps.
Ok: First I want to thank you Brickout for your question about the switch. I fielded that question a whole bunch of times before you asked and have been -- damn -- nevermind. I'll just get upset again. (Getting old sucks.!)
Thank you so much Brickout for your question presented in a very pleasant manner.
BTW: I KNOW
I'm still very correct in my choice of the original switch. It is dead on (but - I'm tired of getting beaten up over it).
As alway: For those that want to do a build and want to feel more comfortable with the switch and its power rating, I've done extensive research and had an AhHa moment a couple of weeks ago when I found this one: Digi-Key Part Number S823/U-ND
. There are 3 different switches types all rated for 30A @ 120V and
30A @ 240V.
When you all get to the linked site just scroll down and click on the data sheet for tons of info about different switches that they have available. They have got 'em all and are rated for 30A @ 120V &
Problem solved. All of my new diagrams using element switches will show this switch set for element control.
Brickout: You are looking like you are ready to go and get in on.
Please keep us informed. If there is any way I can help, please ask.
Wishing you the very best.