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Old 01-22-2013, 05:33 PM   #331
Alefebvre
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Mar 2011
Ottawa, ON
Posts: 27

So this is my second time reading this thread I have all my parts ordered to make Walker's PWM just needed some quick info on one thing regarding the 30a switch. Am I looking for a 4 pin switch? Will this one work: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-x-Green-But...0f31304&_uhb=1

Also will the light on the switch come on only when the element is on?

 
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:24 AM   #332
GregKelley
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Feb 2006
North Royalton, OH
Posts: 173
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alefebvre View Post
So this is my second time reading this thread I have all my parts ordered to make Walker's PWM just needed some quick info on one thing regarding the 30a switch. Am I looking for a 4 pin switch? Will this one work: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-x-Green-But...0f31304&_uhb=1

Also will the light on the switch come on only when the element is on?
That switch does look like it will work. This switch would handle the power coming from the wall into the box. So the light will come on when you turn it on but then it is the PWM that switches the element on and off. The PWM is after this switch so this switch would not be affected by the PWM.

 
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:38 PM   #333
xMOBISx
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Apr 2013
Posts: 2

Hi it looks like the picture is no longer available. Can you please repost it

 
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:14 AM   #334
bumble86
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Feb 2013
Posts: 4


Hello, I bought the FK804-2 PWM kit and a 2.2u cap, soldered it into C1 and powered it up with a 9v DC power supply. I get a constant 9v output, no oscillation. I can see oscillation on the 555 timer on the output (pin 3) but on the other side of the 300 ohm resistor, there is no oscillation. I'm stumped.

 
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:46 PM   #335
clearwaterbrewer
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Aug 2010
Clearwater, FL
Posts: 267
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Bumble86 - That side of the 300 ohm resistor goes to the transistor, and the lead next to where it is soldered is connected to ground, you may have a solder jumper to it... that would be the most logical explanation.. If there is not, maybe the transistor is shorted, to test that theory, totally remove the transistor and remove all solder from those three holes with wick or suction tool... then measure the R300 output again.

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Old 06-22-2013, 06:20 PM   #336
bumble86
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Feb 2013
Posts: 4


Good call. replaced the transistor and it works perfectly.

 
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:09 PM   #337
owentp
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Jan 2012
Mattawan, MI
Posts: 342
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Freddy's, so does the wall wart plug into a separate 120 v receptacle or does the hot leg spliced into it power it? Your diagram shows that one leg it spliced to power it. Little confused of how to wire at this point. The rest appears clear.

 
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:52 AM   #338
alien
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Apr 2012
Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,235
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For people reading this thread for the first time, the LED dimmer can be made to do slow PWM by changing a single capacitor. See the link in my signature.

 
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:26 AM   #339
clearwaterbrewer
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Aug 2010
Clearwater, FL
Posts: 267
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How would you guys like to be able to get rid of everything but the resistor and the SSR? How about a DIY kit with box, SSR, heat sink, cable glands, thermopaste, etc... http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html

While you are there, for $36, you can get a tri-clover element adapter..
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-g...-adapters.html
(is 2" tri-clover and does require a 2" ferrule welded to your kettle and a clamp and gasket, but 2" is much easier to slip the element in)

I use the element adapters myself, and they are great, I built my own 555 PWM as shown earlier in this thread, but plan on using this kit to build for a friend..

 
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:01 PM   #340
owentp
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Jan 2012
Mattawan, MI
Posts: 342
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So all i would need to get is the wiring components, receptacles & power switches?

When will you have instructions?

 
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