Roeselare 3763 (Flanders Red) Question - Home Brew Forums
Register Now For Free!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Fermentation & Yeast > Roeselare 3763 (Flanders Red) Question

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-06-2011, 09:43 PM   #1
OneHotKarl
Recipes 
 
Oct 2005
Roseville, CA
Posts: 81
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts



So here's the question, I will be brewing Jamil's Flanders Red recipe soon and want to know how to use this blended yeast. I plan on using 100% Wyeast 3763 right from the start and let it age with oak for 1 year.

If I pitch the 3763 to the primary and it ferments down to maybe 1.020 or so with the standard brewing yeasts in the 3763 and than transfer to secondary to get it off the yeast trub would I lose all the bugs left behind in the primary?? Would the secondary have enough of the bugs to do the final year long bug fermentation, or do I simply leave the beer in the primary carboy the entire year along with the standard yeast trub in the bottom?

Any advise would be helpful, this is the first time using the 3763. Thanks.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 09:47 PM   #2

Personally, I would transfer it off of the trub. If it was a lambic, you could leave it, but a flanders needs to be a bit less funky.

This is why I prefer to add a neutral yeast like us05 at the beginning and then add the bugs when I transfer to secondary. I think you'd lose a lot of yeast to the trub, but I think you'll have enough to get the job done in secondary. You could also try racking a little early, around 1.030 or so. There would still be plenty of yeast in suspension.
__________________
He who drinks beer sleeps well. He who sleeps well cannot sin. He who does not sin goes to heaven.

Another HERMS rig...

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 03:58 AM   #3
yodalegomaster
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
MN
Posts: 420
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts


I would use add about 1/4 of a lb of maltodextrin to the recipe. Ps: I just made a Killer Flanders red, It tasted like s**t till the second year. So, good we went through 10+ gallons at NHC this year. And it needs to be blended with a one year old to be very good.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 04:01 AM   #4
yodalegomaster
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
MN
Posts: 420
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts


Forgot to mention that this is the most forgiving recipe ever, after 2 years it's going to taste like a Flanders no matter what you do up front. So, get the the right color and your good to go.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 04:05 AM   #5
passedpawn
Waste Allocation Load Lifter - Earth Class
HBT_ADMIN.png
 
passedpawn's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Apr 2009
☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
Posts: 26,530
Liked 7013 Times on 4151 Posts


I brewed JZ's recipe 3 weeks ago. I pitched roselare only. I took a sample and it is good (a bit sour) already. I didn't think the sour would show up until months later.

I intend on adding oak in the next week. I'll let it sit at least 3 or 4 months. I'll taste every month. If I like, I'll bottle.
__________________
- Andrew

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 04:23 AM   #6
RiverSwillBeer
 
RiverSwillBeer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Jan 2007
Marseilles, Illinois
Posts: 218

@ yodalegomaster.... if you are talking about the Flanders Red that was at the booth that looked like the hunting cabin ... that was OUTSTANDING !! I probably drank half a gallon that night.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 04:50 PM   #7
Saccharomyces
Be good to your yeast...
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
Saccharomyces's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Jun 2008
Pflugerville, Texas
Posts: 5,447
Liked 116 Times on 70 Posts


I have been fermenting my Flanders red for 100 days in primary (plastic, leaches some O2 in for the Brett) using Roeselare only, and then aging in kegs. At 100 days it's fairly sour and funky, but it takes 16-18 months for the flavor to fully develop. I'm up to 25 gallons, having a full pipeline insures I'll be able to have a continuous supply of beer served at its peak!
__________________
[How to Calculate Mash Efficiency | Do I Need a Yeast Starter? | My Ghetto Fermentation Chamber | Twitter | 6 Gal. HDPE Fermenters | Slanting Yeast | No Sparge Brewing]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soperbrew
big brother only monitors facebook and untappd

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 05:13 PM   #8
spiny_norman
Recipes 
 
Apr 2009
San Diego, CA
Posts: 198
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts


I'm brewing this in a few weeks; my first attempt at a sour. I was planning on fermenting in a carboy with WLP001 for a couple of weeks and then transferring to a corny (with airlock) and adding the bugs and then putting it away for 18 months. Anyone done this with a corny? I wondering if I should cut the dip tube so that I can get the beer out when it's done. After 18 months, crash cool, transfer to another corny, force carb and bottle.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 05:31 PM   #9
Gritsak
Recipes 
 
Aug 2009
Posts: 604
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts


my current flanders was fermented with harvested jolly pumpkin la roja yeast in the primary, then secondary with 3763 and dregs from various sours. I'm about 4-5 months in and just took my first sample in 3 months a few days ago. It had a great sour character. I'd be happy to drink it as is, but plan to leave it for another few months at least.

I don't have much experience, but almost everything i've come across recommends adding dregs from various sours to the secondary to increase the complexity. This has worked well for my thus far.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 06:07 PM   #10
Saccharomyces
Be good to your yeast...
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
Saccharomyces's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Jun 2008
Pflugerville, Texas
Posts: 5,447
Liked 116 Times on 70 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by spiny_norman View Post
Anyone done this with a corny? I wondering if I should cut the dip tube so that I can get the beer out when it's done. After 18 months, crash cool, transfer to another corny, force carb and bottle.
Two posts back? I don't use an airlock on the keg... it isn't needed. Just pull the pressure relief every month or so whenever you think of it. Brett don't produce as much CO2 as sacc yeast, it won't build up very much pressure at all once the primary fermentation is over. (The amount of pressure is also a pretty good indicator to you how much activity is going on in there since you can't see through stainless)

Don't go cutting into your dip tubes just yet. When you are ready to transfer, don't move the keg -- just hook up a picnic tap and remove a pint (the sediment near the dip tube will come out with it), then push the rest out slowly to a bottling bucket or another keg with CO2. Works like a champ -- the sediment will remain in the keg.

The kegs I use for sours I put a loop of tape around the handle, so I don't accidentally grab that keg and put a non-sour beer in it. Once pediococcus has been in your keg, you will need to replace all the seals and boil the poppets before you can safely put a non-sour beer in the keg.
__________________
[How to Calculate Mash Efficiency | Do I Need a Yeast Starter? | My Ghetto Fermentation Chamber | Twitter | 6 Gal. HDPE Fermenters | Slanting Yeast | No Sparge Brewing]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soperbrew
big brother only monitors facebook and untappd

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Quick temprate question, and promary/secondary question. Cazamodo Fermentation & Yeast 4 10-23-2010 08:52 PM
Roeselare in primary lag phase andreiz Fermentation & Yeast 13 09-09-2010 03:30 AM
WY3763-Roeselare & WY5151PC-BrettC: Starter Question JayInJersey Fermentation & Yeast 2 07-29-2010 01:34 PM
Transferring Flanders to Secondary? cellardoor Fermentation & Yeast 7 05-21-2010 03:16 AM
Roeselare Blend Is Back! adx Fermentation & Yeast 1 01-07-2010 12:59 AM


Forum Jump