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Old 12-03-2009, 08:21 PM   #1
Sockmonkey
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Any recommendations for a good-looking method to mark a siteglass?

I spent a few hours using a P-Touch with clear labels to mark my siteglass by the quart. When it was done it looked absolutely fantastic and professional... until about 24 hours later when all the labels started falling off.

Suggestions?

 
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:32 PM   #2
doggage
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Getcha some of that glass-etching stuff. People have used it for etching gallon marks on their carboys.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mark...-carboy-63174/

 
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockmonkey View Post
Any recommendations for a good-looking method to mark a siteglass?

I spent a few hours using a P-Touch with clear labels to mark my siteglass by the quart. When it was done it looked absolutely fantastic and professional... until about 24 hours later when all the labels started falling off.

Suggestions?
What size glasses? Sabco offers pre-marked tubes for $30 a pair. I did the same as you and I am upgrading to the Sabco toobs.

Only, I marked mine up and down for additive and deductive quick reference. And I even used Rhino Exterior Extreme condition labels.

 
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:41 PM   #4
Ohio-Ed
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I took a corny post o-ring and an extra fine point sharpie and marked my polycarbonate in quarts. Then I put old o-rings at each gallon mark. I put a different colored one at the 5 and 10 gallon mark. Certainly not 100% professional but working fine so far.

Ed

 
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:53 PM   #5
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I plan on utilizing the sharpie for my HLT when it gets built.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I plan on utilizing the sharpie for my HLT when it gets built.
The o-ring makes a great edge to guide the sharpie. Just make sure the o-ring is relatively straight/level.

To "set" the volume, I put a measured amount of water in (a couple gallons I think) and drained it completely. The difference between what went in and what came out is the "dead" space. I left that in and started filling a quart at a time. It was about 2 gallons before it even appeared in my site glass. So my first marked "even" gallon is 3.

To measure dough-in water, you have to make sure you heat enough that you will be able to measure the last of it or add the exact amount needed and completely drain the hlt.

Ed

 
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:21 PM   #7
android
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sorry to hijack, but does anyone else have any problems with their makings not staying accurate? mine seem to change over time, so i'm completely non-trusting of them.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:36 PM   #8
Sockmonkey
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Doggage: That looks really awesome, but I don't think I could be precise enough with it on my little siteglass. Plus, I'm not sure it would work on polycarbonate?

Gila: It's a 3/8" polycarbonate from Bargainfittings.com. I'll check out what Sabco has to see if it would work for my rig.

Ohio-Ed & Irregular: Sharpie may be what I end up with. I'm worried with my not-so-steady hands that I'll end up with something crappy looking. The o-ring guide is a good idea.

 
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockmonkey View Post
Gila: It's a 3/8" polycarbonate from Bargainfittings.com. I'll check out what Sabco has to see if it would work for my rig.
Nope. Don't bother. There's are set for 1/2" ID.

 
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:39 PM   #10
Sockmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GilaMinumBeer View Post
Nope. Don't bother. There's are set for 1/2" ID.
Yeah, it looks like they're also pre-calibrated for sabco kettles.

 
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