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Old 11-19-2012, 08:48 PM   #11
dadshomebrewing
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Oct 2012
Chicago, Il
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NRbrewguy View Post
Hey All,
I know the topic of filtering yeast has been discussed... mostly by BMC drinkers saying "ew, there's yeast in here."

By using a food-grade nylon screen (I'm not sure of the mesh size) at the end of my siphon tube in between primary/secondary/bottling, would I be filtering trub while letting the live yeast through? My beers never really clarify properly during bottle conditioning. I'd like to get them a little clearer without sacrificing quality.

So what do you think, will this hurt my beer or help it?
teach them how to pour a beer into a glass properly, and the problem will go away



 
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:37 PM   #12
MattsFlyShop
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Nov 2012
Sparks, Nevada
Posts: 47


Awesome. So I'm going to let it sit for a week or two and pull what I can from above the trub. I'm not worried about the yeast so much, just the grains and husks that I missed.



 
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:47 PM   #13
m_stodd
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Sep 2012
milwaukee, WI
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If you don't want trub in your secondary, why don't you just not put it in there? It isn't like it's mixed in with the beer.

Open spigot
Drain trub until beer comes out
Close spigot
Drain beer into secondary

If you put a screen at the end of your spigot with the intention of catching particles, it seems like the relatively small surface area would get clogged pretty quickly if it was doing it's job. Why not just put a mesh bag in your secondary, rack into secondary, remove mesh bag?

 
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:17 AM   #14
MattsFlyShop
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Nov 2012
Sparks, Nevada
Posts: 47


That's what I'll be doing, just bought a few 5 gal paint strainers from Home Depot, should these be sanitized or boiled?

 
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:30 PM   #15
MattsFlyShop
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Nov 2012
Sparks, Nevada
Posts: 47


Well, afer listening to many experienced brewers, I will not be filtering this Brown Ale, I'll syphon the beer off of the trub into a secondary after a week or so in my garage, calculate the priming sugar and bottle 4 gal. instead of 5...cut my losses. I learned the importance of patience and proper equipment. Grain and hop bags from now on.

 
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:40 PM   #16
jerrodm
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Sep 2012
Silver Spring, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonMagee View Post
This is why I don't see much use in a valve in the primary. Just get a autosiphon and start it high in the liquid, moving it slowly down as the volume drops until you are just above the trub. Then stop and accept your losses.

The result will be good, clean beer.
This.

 
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:44 PM   #17
billl
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May 2012
Raleigh, NC
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I use a valve in the primary and it works fine. Crash cool for a couple days to compact the cake, run off a pint or so of whatever got stuck in the valve, and I've got clear beer.

 
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:00 PM   #18
MattsFlyShop
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Nov 2012
Sparks, Nevada
Posts: 47


I transferred my Brown Ale to a Bright this weekend, i'll have about 3.5 Gal to bottle when all is said and done...not being patient and paying too little attention cost me a half of a batch of good beer. I brewed a Pale Ale yesterday with much better results as I used a Grain and Hop Bag (sterilized 5Gal paint Strainer) throughout the boil and removed it just before the cool... the transfer into my fermenter was effortless... I'm living proof that Cavemen Can Brew Beer
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:44 PM   #19
MattsFlyShop
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Nov 2012
Sparks, Nevada
Posts: 47


Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrodm

This.
Yes, exactly that

 
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:08 PM   #20
sweetcell
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Jan 2012
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people have made a lot of good suggestions here for clarifying your beer:
- cold crash for 48 hours (if you don't have a fridge, put your bucket in a larger bucket/tub and pack in some ice, forzen water bottles, etc)
- use a siphon (recommendation: an autosiphon) and pull beer from above the trub. stop siphoning as you get close to the trub. if you try to extract every last drop, you're going to get yeast.
- use finings (irish moss, whilrfloc, gelatin, etc)
-give the yeasties time to settle


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