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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Chillers and Stir Plates > DIY Interwoven "Rib-Cage" Immersion Chiller
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Old 03-03-2009, 03:18 PM   #11
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OT: FSR, How does one become a Primetime Brewer?

OT-2: 25 gallons in one day? Nice work. I wish I could have brewdays like that, just don't have large enough equipment. I've been planning a 2brewday for a while. This Immersion chiller I made will easily shave an hour off each brew because I won't have to wait almost an hour from flameout to Primary transfer before I free up my brewpot again for the second batch.

LakeErie, thanks again for trying my design. Hope it serves you well.


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Old 03-03-2009, 05:23 PM   #12
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OT: FSR, How does one become a Primetime Brewer?

OT-2: 25 gallons in one day? Nice work. I wish I could have brewdays like that, just don't have large enough equipment. I've been planning a 2brewday for a while. This Immersion chiller I made will easily shave an hour off each brew because I won't have to wait almost an hour from flameout to Primary transfer before I free up my brewpot again for the second batch.

LakeErie, thanks again for trying my design. Hope it serves you well.
Just come to one of our meetings and join. Primetimebrewers Home Page

The 20 gallons was two 10 gallon batchs, I can brew up to a 40 gallon batch at one time.


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Old 03-03-2009, 05:28 PM   #13
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Cool design, my only qualm is that one side will have much cooler water flowing through it than the other side, but that is pretty minor and it should mix somewhat
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:28 PM   #14
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Cool design, my only qualm is that one side will have much cooler water flowing through it than the other side, but that is pretty minor and it should mix somewhat
Well, here is my thinking, cold water enters at the top where the wort is hottest due to heat rising and cold sinking. The water then heats up as it passes down and back up through the coils and then the hot water is expelled from the top of the coil on the other side after having passed through the hottest part of the wort at the top, twice. In effect trying to create falling wort on one side (cold water in), and rising wort on the other (Hot water out), so it stirs itself due to temperature gradient.

The data points I remember are these:

At 3 minutes the temp had fallen from 212 to 160
At 6 minutes temp was 120
At 9 minutes temp was 90
at 12 minutes temp was 70

Kinda neat the way the temp fell at those integers. This is of course due to the Delta wort temperature vs input water. Law of diminishing returns if you will. To cool to Lager pitching temps of what 50* it would then stand to reason it would take 33-36 minutes.
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:20 PM   #15
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Its Michigan in early March, so "Friggin' freezing" would be accurate. Exact temperature of the water coming in has to be between 45-55* I will check when I get home.


No doubt. Across the lake over here in WI, my water is cold enough to give me an ice cream headache right outta the tap.
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:40 PM   #16
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No doubt. Across the lake over here in WI, my water is cold enough to give me an ice cream headache right outta the tap.
my tap water was 42* last night.
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:05 PM   #17
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Well, I'll take that as what mine was since you are just a hop, skip and a jump down Chicago Dr. from me.

42* for the guy asking what the tap water temp was.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:22 PM   #18
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Kind of funny my first post on a homebrew site and its not about beer.

I made my IC out of 40' of 1/4" ice maker tubing. I used 20' for one coil and 20' for a second coil. One coil was big and I used a corny keg to wrap it around and the other tube I made smaller by wrapping around some PVC pipe. I used a "T" fitting to have the same temp of water entering both coils at the same time. The inlet for the coils starts at the top and flows down through the wort to take advantage of the natural current of the heated water. I tested it with boiling water first and it was interesting as you could see the cool copper interacting with the hot water. Kind of a mirage effect. You can't see that in wort.

I don't recall exact times, it was more than 13 minutes, I had it to pitch temp well under 30 minutes tho. My water was much warmer than low 40's, I seem to recall in the upper 50's. I'll ahve to take a reading tonight when I get home I'm curious now.

Similar concept is why I posted. My original thought was to make a very tight wound IC to place in the middle of the pot and use water bath for walls. It worked well though as the outside coils are further apart than the tighter wound inside coil. I'll have to water bath next time.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:14 PM   #19
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can anyone tell me what pieces i need to attach tubing? Ill get 25' of copper 3/8" tubing... now im so new at building anything from pieces i buy at lowes or depot. So anyway, i guess ill order the copper online if its cheapest, i can wait. HOW did you only pay $11??? What kind of tubing and clamps do i need? what sizes? what kind of attachment for the hose? Seems easier to just drop it in the sink of ice, i cant afford to buy one for 60 bucks im laid off right now
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:32 PM   #20
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I only paid $11 because my friend had this copper tubing laying around.

What do you need? I'd say 1/2" hose clamps from Autozone for a few bucks, and the necessary barbed fitting to hook to a garden hose faucet (they are clearly marked in the fittings aisle in Home Depot or Lowes) if you plan to go that route. Or you'll need to unscrew the diffuser on your sink and bring it with you so you can get the right threaded barb adapter if you want to hook it to your sink kitchen faucet. Then just find the 20' of clear hose or whatever you want thats 3/8" ID or OD. doesn't matter it'll stretch. I got the cheapest stuff I could find, it was $4.16 for 20'.

My faucet has weird threads so I needed to get an adapter to screw into my adapter, hence the $11 cost.



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