I brew, primarily, Pale Ales and American IPAs and like some variety when it comes to hops. I use a base recipe for both as far as the grain bill goes and vary mash temperature and hops additions.
My grain bill for Pale Ales (6 gallon pre-boil):
10 lb. Breiss 2 row
2 lb. Munich 9L
1 lb. Acid Malt(for PH adjustment)
For IPAs I just add 2 lb. 2 row.
During the summer months I generally like dryer beers, so I mash at 148 to 150 F. and do my bittering additions at 60 min., flavor at 15 and then dry hop with a couple of ounces.
During the winter, for a little more body, balanced with more hop flavor and aroma, I mash at 154 to 156 F. and split my bittering IBUs equally between 60 and 30 with flavor at 15 and dry hop with a couple of ounces.
This has worked well for me, as well as being a consistent base for trying out different varieties and combinations of hops. I always use US-05 for both styles, so yeast isn't a factor. Wondering if anyone else does this. It cuts down on the malts I keep on hand and allows me to buy in greater quantities which reduces the cost.
Bob
My grain bill for Pale Ales (6 gallon pre-boil):
10 lb. Breiss 2 row
2 lb. Munich 9L
1 lb. Acid Malt(for PH adjustment)
For IPAs I just add 2 lb. 2 row.
During the summer months I generally like dryer beers, so I mash at 148 to 150 F. and do my bittering additions at 60 min., flavor at 15 and then dry hop with a couple of ounces.
During the winter, for a little more body, balanced with more hop flavor and aroma, I mash at 154 to 156 F. and split my bittering IBUs equally between 60 and 30 with flavor at 15 and dry hop with a couple of ounces.
This has worked well for me, as well as being a consistent base for trying out different varieties and combinations of hops. I always use US-05 for both styles, so yeast isn't a factor. Wondering if anyone else does this. It cuts down on the malts I keep on hand and allows me to buy in greater quantities which reduces the cost.
Bob