New e-brewery

Like half of the people who start a threads here, I'm looking for help and clarification! (My next post will hopefully be the other half who posts pictures of their builds!)

So I'm torn... Brew-Boss? BCS? PID?

My goal is to start eBIAB and possibly expand to a 3V, e-HERMS.

I currently have a gas fired, 3V, standard set-up, and have been brewing since '96, all-grain since probably '98. 5 and 10 gal batches, some high-gravity.

My original thought was that I'd just convert to electric w/ a PID HERM controller, and then I started reading. And reading...

So, what's the best bet for a eBIAB that is expandable incrementally? Cost is of course in play, that's why I'm starting BIAB and thinking modular.

Has anyone done this? What steps did you take?

Compared to a PID system, what does the BCS take the place of?

I've got NM-B 6-3 wire run from my main panel into my back room in the basement. I've got a 50A spa panel from Home Depot. I've got my "wishlist" at brewhardware.com waiting for the element/tri-clover assy to come back into stock, so I can place the e-kettle order. I've got an extra keg ready to convert.

So, help me with the controller decision. Brew-Boss? BCS? PID? Other?

Thanks!
Kevin

If your thinking of upgrading in the future I would go the DIY route. Simply because you can get exactly what you want the first time. While pre made systems are good, there might be a certain amount of compromise that you will be doing as far as equipment. Also they might not offer you the ability to adapt equipment to the extent that you want. I would go the PID route, and add more as you see fit. Lastly buy a control box that is to big for what you want now so you will have ample room to add more pids, switches, alarms etc.

it would be hard to outgrow a BCS but I also feel a BCS might be overkill for a BIAB.... nvm get a bcs.

It all depends on how much you want to spend and how fast you want to spend it.

It cost me $165 to take a 15g keg from Gas Fired -> 5500w Electric including a basic PID control box.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=550270

1. If you didn't mind keeping your existing HLT, you could certainly use the same build and then your strike and sparge temperatures could run on automatic.

2. The same controller box could be used on your boil kettle. The temperature control part doesn't matter, but the PID lets you throttle the heat the same way you would control the gas. All you would need to add for the boil kettle would be the element, cord, and enclosure. If you really wanted to save money you could ignore the PID temperature. Unplug the HLT, plug in the BK, and set to 60%.

Going that route would move a traditional 3v Gas rig to electric heat for under $200, but it would not get you any of the automation that the other systems offer.


If your goal was to stop buying gas and make better beer, I would personally suggest going the basic electric route and using the left over $1,000 to buy enough malt, hops, and yeast for 20 batches of beer. I find the more I use the gear, the easier brew days get, and the better the beer ends up tasting.



If you are bored with your kit and want new brewing toys, and I should stress that this is a Perfectly OK Reason to buy new brew gear, then Poptarts is right, BCS is the stable and future-proof option. Plenty of bells to ring and whistles to blow.

If you are considering upgrades over time and you don't know how deep that iceberg will go, and you are good at electronics/schematics/wiring... get a BCS.

Whats a bcs

Google ecc BCS it's a micro controller

Very happy with my BCS build. I've got a few threads related to the control panel build.

Also been brewing since the late 90's - one of the best decisions I've made. Love this hobby.

Let me know if you have any questions if /when you go the BCS route.

First purchase made yesterday from brewhardware.com! My kettle will be a bottom drain, 5500W keggle!

I've decided to start cheap w a bare bones PID right now, and we'll see where this rabbit hole takes me in the future!

K

Brewhardware delivered. Started cutting out my keg bottom last night.

Just ordered temp controller, probe, SSR, and heat sink off Amazon to be delivered Friday. Going to stop by Home Depot and get a Homer box for my first control 'panel'!

Kevin

Awesome! You have 240 close by?

Why isnt Strangebrew elsinore being discussed?

After researching this very thing myself 8 months ago i went with Strangebrew Elsinore over BCS or a PID solution. Its cheaper and has all of the capabilities of BCS, if not more(PH testing w/ the proper probes).

For $80(the cost of a RPI on Amazon) you can have everything the BCS does for you. Web interface, software PID, digital output pins to trigger things like float sensors...

Because I'm a mechanical engineer by education with a healthy respect for electronics and no knowledge of software!

Maybe the rabbit hole will lead me there next, once I'm up and running simple electric! I'll add that to my reading.

K

poptarts said:

it would be hard to outgrow a BCS but I also feel a BCS might be overkill for a BIAB.... nvm get a bcs.

Click to expand...

I'm out of outputs on my BCS-462. [emoji17] It wasn't that hard!

My plan is 50A to the spa panel. I've run 6-3 wire from my panel into my brewing area, as I had the wire. Should I have run 4 conductor wire?

I believe that I read that you need 4 conductor wire if you want to be able to have the pump controlled by the panel. Did I misread that, and I'm good w the 6-3, or should I replace that w 6-4?

At this point I'm good w a manual switch for the pump circuit, but if it means being able to have better control in the future, I'll swap it out.

Thanks!
Kevin

kmmuellr said:

My plan is 50A to the spa panel. I've run 6-3 wire from my panel into my brewing area, as I had the wire. Should I have run 4 conductor wire?

I believe that I read that you need 4 conductor wire if you want to be able to have the pump controlled by the panel. Did I misread that, and I'm good w the 6-3, or should I replace that w 6-4?

At this point I'm good w a manual switch for the pump circuit, but if it means being able to have better control in the future, I'll swap it out.

Thanks!
Kevin

Click to expand...

Yes, if you can do it you want H-H-N-G if you want your panel to have 120v circuits as well as 240v.

you can also get 240v pumps. you can run a panel at 240v only but you need to make sure all your indicating lights, contactor coils, etc. are rated for 240v.

itsnotrequired said:

you can also get 240v pumps. you can run a panel at 240v only but you need to make sure all your indicating lights, contactor coils, etc. are rated for 240v.

Click to expand...

Another option here (that I chose) is running a dc power supply off the 240v and using DC pumps like the 24V 3gpm pumps... you can permenently pump them into your system very cheaply and not have to deal with switching hoses around and such...

I came home for lunch to see what I actually pulled thru the ceiling over a year ago. Turns out I'm OK! Red, black, white, bare copper. Woohoo!

I've got a 1/25 HP march pump, so unless I decide to change something g after this is set up, I'll stick w a 120 circuit.

K

And I'm back!! Finally getting back to this build.

Had some issues last night w a leak in my hot pod from brewhardware. Operator error. I was over tightening and blowing out an oring.

Tonight everything is fired up and heating water!!!

Now on to calibrating my TD4 and tuning. Is there any TD4 for dummies link out there? The manual that comes with it is about useless. Temp bthe other night seemed pretty close. Tonight my dial thermometer was showing 160 when I shut it down and the td4 was showing 71.

Kevin

Make sure you change your setting to the type of temp probe you have. That might explain the temp difference.

augiedoggy said:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=572582

Click to expand...

Thanks! I'd seen that but assumed that the drop box link contained the same two sheets of paper that came w/ my controller.

Hopefully I'll have time to play around tonight.