I was in Cologne this summer and sampled quite a few Kolsch while there. What surpirsed me most was how much more bitter than I expected the majority of them were. A number of them had a lingering bitterness to them, not unlike a typical mass produced German lager. Again, this was not what I expected. Everything else I read was spot on, slightly fruity, soft, delicate, no real hop aroma, etc.
The BJCP guidlines say 20-30 IBUs. I'd put the majority of the ones we tried at 30 or more - at least is seemed that way. The guidelines also say this
This make sense, but I would add, that the majority of the ones we had were of the drier style. (we had mostly drafts, the only bottle was DOM which was my least favorite, a "BMC" according to a guy on the train). I think they should emphasize this more in the guidelines. Malzmuhle was the only one that matched what I thought a Koslch should taste like - just based on reading and versions made in the US, and the two imports Gaffel and Reissdorf. Malzmuhle was also the richest and maltiest.