Double IPA Dogfish Head 90 Minute Clone

CornyKegs 728
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1.5 weeks into the bottle and slightly warm (because I couldn't wait for it to completely chill) and this beer is amazing! The hop notes are fantastic. The malt, dead on with the original! Awesome beer! Thanks for the recipe.
 
Just brewed this last night. Completely shyte efficiency, but it smelled and tasted pretty good. A pound of DME brought it close to in line with the recipe. I also pitched Thames Valley instead of Whitbread because the damn LHBS had it put in the wrong place and of course I didn't check before checking out. Anyway I've got the malt and hops to do another round so I'll see how this one comes out and then probably do one with the right yeast in a month or so.
 
SenorPepe said:
Just brewed this last night. Completely shyte efficiency, but it smelled and tasted pretty good. A pound of DME brought it close to in line with the recipe. I also pitched Thames Valley instead of Whitbread because the damn LHBS had it put in the wrong place and of course I didn't check before checking out. Anyway I've got the malt and hops to do another round so I'll see how this one comes out and then probably do one with the right yeast in a month or so.
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Thames Valley is pretty clean, The only thing I'd be worried about is if it attenuates enough. Raise the temp of the fermenter once it starts to slow down. That should help the yeast attenuate the beer.
 
I figured it wouldn't make too much of a differnce if I keep it at 64. I am actually kind of concerned about the opposite; Wyeast lists TV's attenuation at 77% and Whitbread's at 68-72. Have you found that to be not right in the past? I haven't actually used either of them although I've used TVII.
 
I always use WLP007 which is the dry whitbread, supposed to be 70-80%. You'll be fine. IIPAs should be dry
 
Is there a recommended mash and sparge time for a bigger beer like this? I was thinking I'll do a 60 min mash and maybe a 15 min batch sparge. Is that enough? This is my first all grain and I'm pumped!!
 
brew2enjoy said:
Is there a recommended mash and sparge time for a bigger beer like this? I was thinking I'll do a 60 min mash and maybe a 15 min batch sparge. Is that enough? This is my first all grain and I'm pumped!!
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Mashing for 60min is plenty. Split your batch sparge into two parts, stir like crazy after each one, and you can run out the wort immediately after stirring. Just stir the sparges very well.
 
scottland said:
Mashing for 60min is plenty. Split your batch sparge into two parts, stir like crazy after each one, and you can run out the wort immediately after stirring. Just stir the sparges very well.
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Thanks as always for the quick response. I also forgot to ask... what is your pre-boil volume for a 90 minute boil? I downloaded brew target and it is telling me 6.25 gallons. That seems low to me. I use a propane burner.
 
brew2enjoy: This really depends on your boil off rate. Go off of previous experience with full boil batches.

I usually do 6.25 gallons for a 60 minute boil, and did 7.25 for a 120 minute boil. Possibly 6.75 would be a good starting point. Something to keep in mind - after the first 30 minutes (60 minutes left) measure how much water you have in the pot. Adjust rate of boil from there.

I'm new to all-grain though...
 
remuS said:
brew2enjoy: This really depends on your boil off rate. Go off of previous experience with full boil batches.

I usually do 6.25 gallons for a 60 minute boil, and did 7.25 for a 120 minute boil. Possibly 6.75 would be a good starting point. Something to keep in mind - after the first 30 minutes (60 minutes left) measure how much water you have in the pot. Adjust rate of boil from there.

I'm new to all-grain though...
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Exactly. It's totally dependent on your system, what kind of pot you have, how high the burner is turned up, what temp it is outside, etc.

If this is your first 90min boil I would: Take your 60min pre-boil (say 6.5gal) and subtract your typical 60min post boil (say 5.5gal). Which would give you your typical 60min boil off = 1gal. Then just assume you'll get 50% more boil off with a 90min boil. 1.5gal. So i'd start with 7gal to finish with 5.5 in that scenario. You'll just have to use your experience with your brewery to know.

Definitely err on the side of more wort to start. You'll lose a good amount of wort to the hops in both the kettle and the secondary. If you're concerned your efficiency will end up low, simply add some more 2-row to the recipe.
 
Well, this will be my first all-grain brew and only my 2nd full boil. The first full boil I think was right around 1 gallon boil-off during a 60 min boil so I will use that and go from there. This will definately be a learning experience for me but I am looking forward to the challenge!
 
If I cannot obtain Simcoe, any close substitutes you'd recommend?

I've searched the board and there doesn't seem to be one and there are mixed opinions as to combinations.
 
zyx345 said:
If I cannot obtain Simcoe, any close substitutes you'd recommend?
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Simcoe is super unique, that's a toughy. It's citrusy, with a grapefruit kind of thing, but it's also really oily, resiny, and pine like.

I'd probably mix Cascade, Centennial, and Chinook together. I don't really know.....

Falconer's Flight, or Zythos are two new hop blends that would work well as a Simcoe replacement. If you can find those, i'd say that's the way to go.
 
Finally got to break in my brand-new mash tun and brew this yesterday. I must say for my first all grain, everything went incredibly smooth! I over-shot my pre-boil volume a little and ended up with about 7.5 gallons at 1.060 which I calculated at 72% efficiency. I am glad I overshot my volume because those simcoe leaf hops absorb alot of beer! I still ended up with about 5.25 gallons in my fermenter (I was shooting for 5.5). I took really good notes though so I will make some adjustments for the next batch. I also over-shot my strike water temp a little so I had to add a little cold water and stir for about 10 min to get to my mash temp. I wasn't sure how much heat my cooler would absorb so I aimed a little high figuring it would be easier to lower the temp then raise it. Final post-boil gravity was 1.081, a few points short but no biggie.

Another first for me was how quickly fermentation started. Per recommendations I made a massive (3 qt) starter of WLP007 and I had activity within 3 hours. I checked it this morning before I left for work and it has a nice 3" krausen and the temp is holding nicely at 65. Thanks for the great recipe and for answering all my noob questions! I will update as things move along. I took some pictures that I will post on here a little later.
 
Just tapped my partial mash of this brew (first kegged beer!) and it is delicious. I seem to recall there being a bit maltier of a flavor in the original, but this is pretty close. Im very excited with how this turned out. Mine also seems to be a bit darker in color (perhaps a bit too dark) but it taste great none the less. Definitely gonna keep this one on my short list and play around with it especially with my all-grain set-up nearing completion. Thanks so much for the recipe!
 
Pics.. Smell was amazing! Only thing I forgot to do was take a temp reading AFTER the mash, but it had settled nicely at 151 when I closed the lid. I doubt I lost more than 1-2 degrees over the hour long mash.

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I grabbed everything for this beer yesterday and began my first ever starter. Can't wait to start brewing it. 90 Min isn't available around here anymore.
 
Whew that WLP007 works FAST. Day 4 and it has mostly dropped out. It's still a little cloudy so there is still some yeast in suspension finishing things up. I am trying to get the temp up a little to help it finish. I think this may be the first yeast I attempt to wash and save. I really like how it has performed thus far! I think I will give it another week and dry hop it.

Scottland, what is the benefit of adding the dry hops in two stages?
 
WLP007 always rips through beers, but oddly enough drops clear before it chews off the last few points. Give it at least 3-4 more days after the krausen drops
 
I brewed this over the weekend and totally screwed up my mash temp, which lead to a very low OG. I read a couple versions of the recipe and the one I ended up with, which consequently was the wrong one, had a mash temp of 122 and then bringing it up to 149. So, I mashed at 122 for 40 minutes and then added enough water (stole from the sparge water, not sure if that was right or not) to bring it up to 149 for last 20 mins or so of the mash. My OG, chilled wort, ended up being a depressingly low 1.044. So, it's been sitting in the primary for a 4 or 5 days now and I have a couple of questions.

If I leave it alone will I end up with a low ABV, but drinkable beer? Albeit not a 90 min clone.

Is there anything I can do now to raise the OG, like add some DME? Or is that too late?
 
Maaan, I gotta say this beer smelled kinda weird when I went to dry hop it. Fingers crossed. Scottland, I'd also like to know the reasoning behind splitting up the dry hop schedule.
 
CrackWagen said:
I brewed this over the weekend and totally screwed up my mash temp, which lead to a very low OG. I read a couple versions of the recipe and the one I ended up with, which consequently was the wrong one, had a mash temp of 122 and then bringing it up to 149. So, I mashed at 122 for 40 minutes and then added enough water (stole from the sparge water, not sure if that was right or not) to bring it up to 149 for last 20 mins or so of the mash. My OG, chilled wort, ended up being a depressingly low 1.044. So, it's been sitting in the primary for a 4 or 5 days now and I have a couple of questions.

If I leave it alone will I end up with a low ABV, but drinkable beer? Albeit not a 90 min clone.

Is there anything I can do now to raise the OG, like add some DME? Or is that too late?
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Usually you would add the DME before fermentation. I'm not sure if it's safe to add it this late but maybe someone else can chime in there. I think it will still be good, just a really hoppy pale ale. I believe DFH mashes similar to what you tried to do. They start low and slowly ramp the temp up, but they have special equipment and precise temperature control. You probably could have sparged again and just boiled off the extra volume, that might have helped your efficiency a little. At this point I would stick with what you have. It should still be good.
 
SenorPepe said:
Scottland, I'd also like to know the reasoning behind splitting up the dry hop schedule.
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Hop oils are very volatile, and it seems like adding fresh hops a number of time over a number of days really boosts the hop aroma of the beer.
 
CrackWagen said:
If I leave it alone will I end up with a low ABV, but drinkable beer? Albeit not a 90 min clone.

Is there anything I can do now to raise the OG, like add some DME? Or is that too late?
Click to expand...

That mash schedule would have worked, but you would have needed to hold the 149* rest for at least 60 minutes. I think that's where your issue was.

You'll still have a drinkable beer, it'll just be quite bitter for a pale ale. I'd roll with it, and see how it turns out, you might like it. Considering your 4-5 days into the primary, I wouldn't go to the trouble of adding more fermentables.
 
Thanks for the speedy reply guys. I'll definitely be sure to not make the same mistake next time.
 
So I am drinking a bottle of 90 minute right now and the label said that it was made using a single continuous 90 minute hop addition. so this isn't saying that it is only one type of hop, it is saying that the hop blend that they use is just being added constantly for 90 minutes?

I Just drank a 60 minute before the 90 and I am going to pick up a 120 at the local beer store friday, they have 2 left. yum yum
 
I love the 60 and 90 minute IPA's, been enjoying them for years since I have the luxury of living within 20 minutes from the brewery! I actually just tried the 120 minute a few months ago and honestly, it fell short of my expectations. Not that it wasn't good, i was just expecting more. The 60, 90, squall, and burton baton are excellent though.
 
Can I put this much grain in my 10 gal converted drink cooler I used for a mash tun?
 

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