Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

One batch will be:
Englishman's Nut Brown Ale with 1 lb of amber DME, one booster pack, 1 tablespoon of maltodextrine and 1/2 oz. of cascade hops

Other batch will be:
Oct Vienna Lager with 1 lb. of light DME, one booster pack, 1 tablespoon of maltodextrine and 1/4 oz. of cascade hops.

Any special advice or info y'all can offer up...this is one of my 1st variances off of the MB brewkits.

What say you? and let 'er rip.

Both sound pretty good and very similar to what I'm doing. I have Nut Brown + 1# dark dme, 3/4# brown sugar and 1/2 oz Willamette in the bottle now. I boiled the dme, sugar, with hops at 20 and 5 minutes in 1 gallon of water and added the hme after cutting off the heat. Is pretty tasty. I am fermenting the bottle Vienna lager with 1 booster pack and 1# amber dme. Still has a week to go before bottling.

How do you think it would be if I added a lb of golden amber dme and a cup of booster in a batch of Cowboy Golden Amber and/or a Classic American Pale Ale?

stevehardt said:

How do you think it would be if I added a lb of golden amber dme and a cup of booster in a batch of Cowboy Golden Amber and/or a Classic American Pale Ale?

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Do you mean on top of the original recipe (with a pouch of booster already) or just to the can of HME?

If it's just the can of hme, plus the dme and a little bit of booster, you'll probably be ok (perhaps a little sweet, lightly hopped, but I think still well within the realm of personal taste)
If you're adding all of that as HME, Booster, LB of DME + MORE booster, you're going to have a very unbalanced brew, in the obvious pursuit of ABV versus actual flavor. If you added more hops, it could be the start of a big beer... but that'd be a little awkward with the flavor of the Cowboy Golden.

Raenon said:

Do you mean on top of the original recipe (with a pouch of booster already) or just to the can of HME?

If it's just the can of hme, plus the dme and a little bit of booster, you'll probably be ok (perhaps a little sweet, lightly hopped, but I think still well within the realm of personal taste)
If you're adding all of that as HME, Booster, LB of DME + MORE booster, you're going to have a very unbalanced brew, in the obvious pursuit of ABV versus actual flavor. If you added more hops, it could be the start of a big beer... but that'd be a little awkward with the flavor of the Cowboy Golden.

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Excellent point..I should have been more clear...just going to use the HME, a pound of amber dme per mr beer batch, and a cup of booster (as opposed to a full pack of booster). Think that will taste OK?

I brewed the MB Seasonal Lager (1st lager) 4 days ago and had a couple lagering questions. Right now it is sitting in a cooler with ice packs at 50 deg.

I plan to leave it in there at 48-50 for about 2 weeks;
transfer off trub to secondary fermenter for a week;
do a D-rest at 60-65 deg. for 2 days;
transfer to bottle bucket, batch prime and bottle;
I then plan to let these bottles warm condition to carbonate for 1 week;
and finally lager them for an additional 2 or 3 weeks at 35-40 deg.
--Total time: 6-7 weeks

Does this seem good? or would any other steps and time be recommended?

stevehardt said:

Excellent point..I should have been more clear...just going to use the HME, a pound of amber dme per mr beer batch, and a cup of booster (as opposed to a full pack of booster). Think that will taste OK?

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Yeah, you're raising the fermentables a bit versus the recipe (which will boost the ABV nicely), but not overdoing it.

BTW- you can hold onto the rest of the booster for bottling later

Helm said:

I brewed the MB Seasonal Lager (1st lager) 4 days ago and had a couple lagering questions. Right now it is sitting in a cooler with ice packs at 50 deg.

I plan to leave it in there at 48-50 for about 2 weeks;
transfer off trub to secondary fermenter for a week;
do a D-rest at 60-65 deg. for 2 days;
transfer to bottle bucket, batch prime and bottle;
I then plan to let these bottles warm condition to carbonate for 1 week;
and finally lager them for an additional 2 or 3 weeks at 35-40 deg.
--Total time: 6-7 weeks

Does this seem good? or would any other steps and time be recommended?

Click to expand...

Actually, now that I think about it, doing the D-rest before the transfer to secondary might be best. Thoughts?

Has anybody tried adding a priming solution (white cane sugar) into the keg? If so I was wondering what is one's recipe that has worked? I have "How to Brew" and everything is for 5 gallon batches. My calculations for a 2.125 gallon batch are 7 fl oz of water, 1.6 oz of cane sugar, boil and let cool...then add. However it seems like more sugar should be added.

Currently I use the Mr Beer sugar tool for 12 oz bottles. This method has worked great, no explosions, but its VERY tedious.

natefrog255 said:

Has anybody tried adding a priming solution (white cane sugar) into the keg? If so I was wondering what is one's recipe that has worked? I have "How to Brew" and everything is for 5 gallon batches. My calculations for a 2.125 gallon batch are 7 fl oz of water, 1.6 oz of cane sugar, boil and let cool...then add. However it seems like more sugar should be added.

Currently I use the Mr Beer sugar tool for 12 oz bottles. This method has worked great, no explosions, but its VERY tedious.

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I don't think you want to add it to the fermenter. Instead, use a second container. Some use a second fermenter, some use a container available at Walmart and other places called slimline.

Helm said:

I brewed the MB Seasonal Lager (1st lager) 4 days ago and had a couple lagering questions. Right now it is sitting in a cooler with ice packs at 50 deg.

I plan to leave it in there at 48-50 for about 2 weeks;
transfer off trub to secondary fermenter for a week;
do a D-rest at 60-65 deg. for 2 days;
transfer to bottle bucket, batch prime and bottle;
I then plan to let these bottles warm condition to carbonate for 1 week;
and finally lager them for an additional 2 or 3 weeks at 35-40 deg.
--Total time: 6-7 weeks

Does this seem good? or would any other steps and time be recommended?

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I'd recommend not only doing the d-rest in the primary, but skipping the secondary altogether. In this short amount of time you don't need to worry about a secondary.

Ferment, raise temp, cold crash, bottle, carb, then cold condition.

I brew mainly hefeweizen, but I want to get it off the dead yeast and also be able to batch prime sugar, which I can't do because of fear about stirring up the trub in the primary. Do you guys suggest getting a second mr.b fermentor for my secondary? I only do 2.5 gal batches... Don't have room for anything larger. I have a rackin cane I can use. Anyone have experience wit this?

I just got a Mr. Beer kit as a gift from my girlfriend. She found some new ones on sale for $12 each and the company made an error and sent out 2. So win win!

We live in a 2 bedroom apartment with a roommate right now so the Mr. Beer kits are perfect. I'm looking forward to some decent brews for a fraction of the price of a microbrew. And I'm excited to learn and try out some different ideas and see where this takes me.

bpgreen said:

I don't think you want to add it to the fermenter. Instead, use a second container. Some use a second fermenter, some use a container available at Walmart and other places called slimline.

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+1 to what bpgreen says. Batch priming is so easy and efficient once you have that bottling pail or 2nd LBK.

Walzenbrew said:

I brew mainly hefeweizen, but I want to get it off the dead yeast and also be able to batch prime sugar, which I can't do because of fear about stirring up the trub in the primary. Do you guys suggest getting a second mr.b fermentor for my secondary? I only do 2.5 gal batches... Don't have room for anything larger. I have a rackin cane I can use. Anyone have experience wit this?

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You can use tubing from Lowes to rack into the secondary. If you don't have much room, then a second fermenter makes sense.

knaych said:

I just got a Mr. Beer kit as a gift from my girlfriend. She found some new ones on sale for $12 each and the company made an error and sent out 2. So win win!

We live in a 2 bedroom apartment with a roommate right now so the Mr. Beer kits are perfect. I'm looking forward to some decent brews for a fraction of the price of a microbrew. And I'm excited to learn and try out some different ideas and see where this takes me.

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Please tell us where she got them on sale. Thanks!

Have you seen one of those "Beer Machines" , its a little pricey but I think you would like it.

bueller?

jankdc said:

You can use tubing from Lowes to rack into the secondary. If you don't have much room, then a second fermenter makes sense.

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I already have the tubing...I'm wondering about whether it is worth it to buy a second fermentor in order to get it off the trub or whether it would even make that big of a difference

I received my mr beer kit for Christmas and am about to try out my first west coast pale ale this weekend. Of course im already addicted to brewing mr. Beer style, and have "Bengal tiger ipa" in the fermenter. (recipe from mr. Beer). Does anyone have any modified recipes mr. Beer style that is a wheat or ipa that isn't too complicated but uses hops ? If so let me know!!!

Thanks,
The rookie.

Walzenbrew said:

I already have the tubing...I'm wondering about whether it is worth it to buy a second fermentor in order to get it off the trub or whether it would even make that big of a difference

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It's a matter of preference. I don't think a stout would make a difference, but with a pale ale or pilsner style racking to a secondary would help clear it up. I got a second fermenter for with that in mind, but ended up just brewing another batch.

jankdc said:

It's a matter of preference. I don't think a stout would make a difference, but with a pale ale or pilsner style racking to a secondary would help clear it up. I got a second fermenter for with that in mind, but ended up just brewing another batch.

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Ok thanks. I only brew wheat beers, which are naturally very hazy all thoughout so maybe it won't make a big difference

Walzenbrew said:

I already have the tubing...I'm wondering about whether it is worth it to buy a second fermentor in order to get it off the trub or whether it would even make that big of a difference

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You're right, wheat beers are usually hazy, so you shouldn't sweat the trub as much. Still, you're going to have sediment anyways, so having an inch of it does kinda suck.

You can sort-of imitate batch priming into your bottles. If you boil the sugar-water, COOL IT, and then put equal amounts into each bottle, then that can sort-of do the same thing. Just put equal amounts into each bottle using something that can measure accurately... such as some turkey basters that have volume markings on the side.

That's just an idea, I've never tried it.

Carbonation tabs are another thought, but they do add to the expense.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/coopers-carbonation-tabs-141008/

Justibone said:

As a starting beer brewer, think temp in the 60's rather than the 70's.

Cider and wine don't care as much, but ale definitely does.

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I figured it out; it's the yeast that was causing the high alcohol content. I've been using champagne yeast (Lalvin EC-1118), which is what originally came in my Mr. Beer cider kit. Using an ale strain is much milder. That stuff makes some awesome wine though!

I've been reading about open versus closed fermentation. If I pay special attention to sanitizing, can I leave my beer in the primary mr beer fermentor for 3 or 4 weeks? I would like the trub to solidify up so less of it gets in the bottle, and I notice over time it does this. Would the mr beer be ok for this since it is not airtight?

Walzenbrew said:

I've been reading about open versus closed fermentation. If I pay special attention to sanitizing, can I leave my beer in the primary mr beer fermentor for 3 or 4 weeks? I would like the trub to solidify up so less of it gets in the bottle, and I notice over time it does this. Would the mr beer be ok for this since it is not airtight?

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i leave all my beers in the MrB keg for a minimum of 4 weeks. you could go longer, the debate rages about O2 permutation and risk of infection on this forum, but i can tell you from experience that the only infection i've had was from the wort coming into contact with water in my sink during the cooling phase because i had filled my grain bag over the empty sink and the lactose bacteria from the grain infected the batch.
CO2 is heavier than O2, it will fill the space above the beer and push out anything lighter than it essentially creating a protective barrier - effective as long as you don't agitate the keg or keep it in a very drafty area.
leave it in there and happy brewing.

+1 gtlaw10

Give it time.

If you really want to compact the trub, if you can cool it somehow right before bottling (does it fit in your fridge?) then the trub will be even tighter. Of course moving the keg before bottling could end up being counterprodcutive. Hard to say.

Justibone said:

+1 gtlaw10

Give it time.

If you really want to compact the trub, if you can cool it somehow right before bottling (does it fit in your fridge?) then the trub will be even tighter. Of course moving the keg before bottling could end up being counterprodcutive. Hard to say.

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+1 I stick mine in the fridge for a day or two before bottling and it really does help compact things so they stay on the bottom. After moving the LBK I let it sit still for about an hour and anything that got roused from moving has a chance to settle again. I then transfer to the bottling bucket with an auto siphon and wind up with very little trub in the bottles.

OClairBrew said:

+1 I stick mine in the fridge for a day or two before bottling and it really does help compact things so they stay on the bottom. After moving the LBK I let it sit still for about an hour and anything that got roused from moving has a chance to settle again. I then transfer to the bottling bucket with an auto siphon and wind up with very little trub in the bottles.

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+1 as well. I love the bottling bucket & I can batch prime. Seems to me the bottling time goes down and cleaner, clearer brews goes up.

FWIW - I don't use a bottling bucket, I bottle directly from the MrB keg. I have recently been shocked to see a marked improvement in clarity, and by marked improvement I mean clear as filtered ales. The change in my process was to chill the hot wort ASAP, and I cannot stress the ASAP nature enough, 212F to 65F in ~10 minutes through a salted and circulated icebath in my kitchen sink. clarity for free.

gtlaw10 said:

FWIW - I don't use a bottling bucket, I bottle directly from the MrB keg. I have recently been shocked to see a marked improvement in clarity, and by marked improvement I mean clear as filtered ales. The change in my process was to chill the hot wort ASAP, and I cannot stress the ASAP nature enough, 212F to 65F in ~10 minutes through a salted and circulated icebath in my kitchen sink. clarity for free.

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I just bottled from both of my kegs today and was surprised that my first couple bottles were far less clear than majority of my others. Usually only like last bottle or 2 are not as clear due to the bottom of the keg. Maybe the kegs were a little riled up before I bottled today as I had to move them upstairs. Otherwise I've had good luck with clarity out of the MrB keg. My blonde ale today was very clear after the first 2 or 3 bottles.

just finished my second batch. this one does not have much flavor and taste more like carbonated water. where did i go wrong?

bearded said:

just finished my second batch. this one does not have much flavor and taste more like carbonated water. where did i go wrong?

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You got to tell us what you did first.

gtlaw10 said:

FWIW - I don't use a bottling bucket, I bottle directly from the MrB keg. I have recently been shocked to see a marked improvement in clarity, and by marked improvement I mean clear as filtered ales. The change in my process was to chill the hot wort ASAP, and I cannot stress the ASAP nature enough, 212F to 65F in ~10 minutes through a salted and circulated icebath in my kitchen sink. clarity for free.

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This isn't surprising at all - a good cold break makes a HUGE difference. Congrats.

The other thing you can do is cold-crash the keg for 2-3 days after fermentation is complete. Take the whole keg and place it in your fridge for 2-3 days to settle out more of the particles and to compact the trub. Your beer will be even clearer.

gtlaw10 said:

FWIW - I don't use a bottling bucket, I bottle directly from the MrB keg. I have recently been shocked to see a marked improvement in clarity, and by marked improvement I mean clear as filtered ales. The change in my process was to chill the hot wort ASAP, and I cannot stress the ASAP nature enough, 212F to 65F in ~10 minutes through a salted and circulated icebath in my kitchen sink. clarity for free.

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Definitely gonna try that, thanks

bearded said:

just finished my second batch. this one does not have much flavor and taste more like carbonated water. where did i go wrong?

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Did you give it enough time ? At minimum the 2-2-2 method for 6 weeks total. Also make sure to fridge the beer at least a day before trying has helped mine.

quick question, got my first batch of mr beer sitting in the fermentor. its been in there for 2 and a half weeks. are there any negative effects of letting it sit in there too long? i gotta find some bottles to bottle this batch

I wouldn't let it sit more than 4 weeks at room temp.

Yes, oxidation. If you leave fermented beer in the keg too long after fermentation has completely stopped oxidation can create off flavors. It's not necessary to leave the beer for longer than two weeks in the keg fermenter before bottling. That would be a different story in a sealed carboy with airlock and less airspace. In the keg with open notches you're letting more air in once active fermentation has stopped.

Most fermentation is complete in the first week (depending on beer style, and assuming pitching temp and yeast quality are on par) and the second week allows for residual fermentation (per style) and lets the yeast "clean up." The beer will settle and clear a little too so there's is less accumulation of sediment in the bottles.

There's really no need to leave it longer than that, and too much time in the keg can actually be detrimental to the quality of the beer. Don't panic, but my suggestion would be to get it into some bottles this week, then leave those bottles at room temp (70 or lower, like in the cool corner of the basement) for a week or so before putting them in the fridge. If you have a very cool place to keep the bottled beer you don't have to rush refrigeration. If it's been in the keg for two weeks there will be very little yeast activity and bottle carbonation will naturally stop after about a week.

Hope that helps.

BFitch said:

quick question, got my first batch of mr beer sitting in the fermentor. its been in there for 2 and a half weeks. are there any negative effects of letting it sit in there too long? i gotta find some bottles to bottle this batch

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There are negative consequences to letting it sit too long, but too long is more than 2 and a half weeks. How long do you anticipate needing to let it sit?