Does anyone else hate their Chugger pumps?

I've never had a problem priming my Chugger pump or getting it to restart after turning it off for a while, as long as it was clean. In fact I found with my system there's no need for a bleeder valve either.

The only time I did have an issue was when the impeller stuck to the shaft because of wort build up. After taking it apart, cleaning the impeller hole out with a brush and putting it together again it's been fine since.

As shown my pump is mounted even with the kettle bottom, but it's inlet is below the kettle outlet and the hoses are just long enough to do the job.

I had issues with my pump when it was positioned horizontally. I then mounted it vertically, with the inlet @ 0600, and installed a bleeder valve and never had an issue since. Dont feel I need the bleeder valve anymore, as it worked fine without it on my recent rig build, so I will go without. One thing I do use is some hemostats when changing hoses. I will clamp them so the liquid doesnt spill everywhere from the hose.

ScrewyBrewer said:

...... as long as it was clean. .......

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I wonder if pump cleanliness has something to do with the priming issues a few are reporting? I run a PBW solution through my pumps and CIP nozzles for 30 minutes every time I brew and disassemble pumps and fittings to clean every 2 or 3 times. When I disassemble there is ALWAYS some sticky wort left somewhere in the system even after the PBW wash.

ok. learned a lesson the hard way on my chuggers. I had a 3/8" intake and a 1/2" outflow. I was constantly getting negative pressure and airlocks. after searching high and low on homebrewtalk. I found some mention of the negative pressure situation. Reversed the barbs...and viola...pumps are "chugging". Feel kind of dumb, but sharing if so if this helps someone else.

jddevinn said:

I wonder if pump cleanliness has something to do with the priming issues a few are reporting?

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Not in my case, the pump hasn't sucked since new...

I did fix it though, the bleeder valves work very well. Chugger should integrate an air bleed into the pump body.

-CHRIS- said:

Not in my case, the pump hasn't sucked since new...

I did fix it though, the bleeder valves work very well. Chugger should integrate an air bleed into the pump body.

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I do have bleeder valves installed as well. However, before them I didn't really have an ISSUE getting them primmed.... I had an issue that getting them primed involved moving hoses to prime and somtimes making a mess...and sometimes burning myself slightly.

Ravenshead said:

I'll third the bleeder valve recommendation. My March pumps used to give me fits as well until I installed one.

To tell you the truth, I'm not sure if they aren't both the same pump off the same line with different labels. They sure look the same.

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I wont get into the history between Chugger and us....but i can tell you with 110% confidence that they are NOT off the same line
Our motors are sourced from a US based company but the factory is in Mexico...and the raw magnets come from china...then we mold them into impeller here at the factory...the rest is all made right here in the U.S.
We do all our own plastic injection molding and the castings are made for us in Pennsylvania i believe...or somewhere on the east coast anyway. We do all our own machining as well.


As far as the issues the OP is having....about the only thing i can see, just from the setup, is the length of hose in the system. You are creating an air trap possibility in the pump head because the outlet hose dips back down under the pump. Straighten that out, or shorten the run so air can work its way out more freely and it should help.

Walter read my mind with his comments about pump problems related to poor piping design. I learned the hard way that many "pump problems" are really poor system piping problems.

The pump should always be mounted lower than the vessel being pumped from.

Suction piping should always allow flow to travel downward. Any upward flow transitions can prevent quick priming and allow an airlock condition to occur.

Suction piping should be at least the same I.D. as the pump inlet fitting. A size larger helps on long runs.

All suction pipe fitting have to be air-tight, and not just water-tight. An air leak anywhere on the suction side will prevent the pump from performing correctly.

No flow control valves allowed on the suction side of the pump. Throttling valves only on the discharge side of the pump.

A system drain valve at the lowest spot on the system is a handy aid for cleaning in place systems.

A bleeder valve at a high spot on the discharge piping can help with priming the pump in some installations.

Remember that the more fittings, valves, complicated piping designs in your system increases the odds of an air leak and pumping problems.

Keep your plumbing as simple and direct as your system allows.

Leak test everything before you pump the first batch of wort.

WalterAtMarchPump said:

As far as the issues the OP is having....about the only thing i can see, just from the setup, is the length of hose in the system. You are creating an air trap possibility in the pump head because the outlet hose dips back down under the pump. Straighten that out, or shorten the run so air can work its way out more freely and it should help.

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Walter, you are spot on with the hose lengths. Since my brewery is portable I can't have "perfect" runs and furthermore the electricbrewery.com design dictates that hoses are moved around to different height fittings during the brewing process.

All that being said, the simple bleeder valves have removed all problems with priming my pumps. If I get bored, I may drill and tap the valve body for a more eloquent solution.

Chris

-CHRIS- said:

Walter, you are spot on with the hose lengths. Since my brewery is portable I can't have "perfect" runs and furthermore the electricbrewery.com design dictates that hoses are moved around to different height fittings during the brewing process.

All that being said, the simple bleeder valves have removed all problems with priming my pumps. If I get bored, I may drill and tap the valve body for a more eloquent solution.

Chris

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This is why all my hoses are permanently installed for the whole brewing process, No moving things around needed. I just have to turn the handles on a few 3 way ball valves during brewing. one of the advantages of mounting the cheap dc pumps inline is the fluid flows through them backwards just fine if needed when they are off...

The only hose I disconnect is the chiller recirc hose when I'm done circulating boiling wort through and want to transfer to my conical or carboy...