PVC pipes and boiling water

I'd like to use some PVC piping with my homebrew setup, but I'm not sure about how safe it is in prolonged contact with boiling liquids. And I've been searching online and haven't really been able to find anything to state that it's ok.
I'm guessing that PVC piping is safe in prolonged (let's say indefinate) contact with boiling water, but I'd like to have this thought confirmed.
Does anyone have any experience with this, or has anyone ever looked into it? What is the maximum temperature that PVC can withstand safely?
Thanks for your help!

You may want to look into cpvc pipe instead, it's rated for higher temps not sure how high..

I have looked into it and decided it is absolutely not worth the risk. It's definitely not safe at boiling temps. CPVC is better and some folks here do use that, but here's the thing:

At the quantities we're talking about, copper isn't more than a dollar more. Why not just go with copper and be done with it? Are you really willing to risk funky tasting beer or bad health for....... one dollar?

All the copper stuff you need, all the fittings, elbows, etc, are all available. You don't have to sweat/solder anything (at least not for use in an MLT), they snap together like an erector set. It's just one aisle over from the PVC tubing in the home supply store. Check it out.

I'd be worried about funky chemicals leaching out of the plastic at higher temps. I went with copper, but maybe I'm too paranoid.

John

I've heard of people using C-PVC at mash temps, but I don't recall ever hearing anyone use it in the boil. If it's something that would touch the very bottom of the pot, it's going to get quite a bit above 212° at that spot, too. Personally, I'd stick to copper/stainless for boil applications.

I use a CPVC manifold in my mash tun and have had no problems. I prime the tun with boiling water and that hasn't caused any problems, either. I like CPVC b/c I can take it apart for easy cleaning and I didn't have to buy solder and a torch and other stuff I'd never use again.

That said, if I were really going to expose it to prolonged boiling temperatures like you'd see in a brew pot, then copper is really your only choice.

All my pipeing and valves from my BK and MT are CPVC. But my pickup tube and valve on the BK is copper, and also I have about a 6" piece of copper after the valve before I make the transition to CPVC.

Thanks for all the tips. A while ago I was in a building store and asked for the difference between CPVC and PVC cement (I was installing a bathtub) and the person there said that CPVC (cement) should only be used on drains because they aren't food grade ... any idea if this is true?

With copper fittings, I don't even bother with a solder torch and such.

Just a VERY slight crimp with a pair of pliers will deform the elbows and connectors enough to make a very tight friction fit!

Clear up a couple things, don't use PVC with boiling temps, it won't handle it and it will probably get soft (I know i use to use a 300 degree oven to heat pvc to reshape it)

CPVC is food safe and is used for the hot water lines in indoor plumbing (actually i think it might be required for hot and cold now in lieu of PVC)

CPVC will leave a lot of spots for junk to get caught in in the fittings, and will be hard to clean.

Copper will easily handle hot temps and is easier to clean

Shockerengr said:

CPVC will leave a lot of spots for junk to get caught in in the fittings, and will be hard to clean.

Copper will easily handle hot temps and is easier to clean

Click to expand...

Can you clarify these points please? Assuming you can disassemble the manifold in both cases; why would one be easier than the other to clean?

Shockerengr said:

Clear up a couple things, don't use PVC with boiling temps, it won't handle it and it will probably get soft (I know i use to use a 300 degree oven to heat pvc to reshape it)

CPVC is food safe and is used for the hot water lines in indoor plumbing (actually i think it might be required for hot and cold now in lieu of PVC)

CPVC will leave a lot of spots for junk to get caught in in the fittings, and will be hard to clean.

Copper will easily handle hot temps and is easier to clean

Click to expand...

I agree with most the comments above. CPVC is rated for high temps and pressures when hot. I spec'd it out on about 20 residential water heaters we use for suppling hot water for glass washing.

If was my choice I would go with copper.

By the way: CPVC Max Temp is 210'F - Per American Society of Testing Materials D-1784

I attempted to use regular PVC when I first started brewing and it didn't work...at least not very well....it gets soft with temps over 170F. I tried to find some CPVC but couldn't get my hands on any in the area, anyhow, in the end I listened to some wise old brewers and went with copper

PVC when heated up releases chlorine. This is not only bad for your beer but not good for you. I'm not 100% sure but I think that if you used ABS (looks like black PVC) you should be fine.

Shockerengr said:

...
CPVC will leave a lot of spots for junk to get caught in in the fittings, and will be hard to clean...

Click to expand...

That's why you don't cement it at the joints. They can be disassembled and cleaned easily that way.

Toot said:

With copper fittings, I don't even bother with a solder torch and such.

Just a VERY slight crimp with a pair of pliers will deform the elbows and connectors enough to make a very tight friction fit!

Click to expand...

I never would have thought of that! Good idea.

This article recently made the internet circuits in one form or another:

http://www.inhabitat.com/2007/03/26/pvc-no-good/

Steer clear my friends - I was even considering making a hop-back out of pvc tubes, but decided not to because of toxins - then researched stainless (hah!) and then brainstormed a brilliant one made from a glass Mason ball jar. I'll post pics after I can get it built...

but - pvc, no thank you.