Thrifty RIMS canister from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions

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Thoughts on how the temp controller will handle overtime? I would imagine the relay would be clicking a lot on a rims tube.

Could you do a test from 150 to 170? I would like to get a sense for step mash.

Thanks!
Chris
 
Toadies said:
Thoughts on how the temp controller will handle overtime? I would imagine the relay would be clicking a lot on a rims tube.

Could you do a test from 150 to 170? I would like to get a sense for step mash.

Thanks!
Chris
Click to expand...

How many gallons of liquid? From my calculations on 8-9 gallons of liquid from what test we already did it would take 15-20 min. Assuming a 5 gallon batch and only 4 gallons of liquid it would be 1/2 that time.

Cheers
Jay
 
I've been looking into some automation for my NG setup and this looks great for handling mash temps. But, all my stuff has the brew hardware cam lock fittings. Is it easy to do cam locks (or an NPT fitting that a cam lock could be put on) instead of tri clover? Or I suppose I could find a way to rig tri clover to cam.

Also, is there any concern with mounting this a couple feet below a BG14 that'll be running at full blast under a kettle while the water comes to temp and during the boil?

E: looks like brew hardware has a conversion piece so being native cam lock means one less part, but no big deal. The second question still matters though
 
Yesfan said:
Did you do any testing using a 240V source? I'd like to see how much faster the water temp got to 160. 2.5hrs to 160F from 60F seems a bit much for me.

The system looks good Jay. Great job!
Click to expand...

Ditto for me too.
 
Jaybird said:
How many gallons of liquid? From my calculations on 8-9 gallons of liquid from what test we already did it would take 15-20 min. Assuming a 5 gallon batch and only 4 gallons of liquid it would be 1/2 that time.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

Sounds excellent to me! Any thoughts on the PID controller not having SSR relay?.
 
jackyl said:
I've been looking into some automation for my NG setup and this looks great for handling mash temps. But, all my stuff has the brew hardware cam lock fittings. Is it easy to do cam locks (or an NPT fitting that a cam lock could be put on) instead of tri clover? Or I suppose I could find a way to rig tri clover to cam.
Click to expand...

The TC connection is only where the element connects to the tube. You will want to leave it that way unless you have some sort of camlock heating element. You can put NPT-cam fittings on the wort in/out.
 
jackyl said:
I've been looking into some automation for my NG setup and this looks great for handling mash temps. But, all my stuff has the brew hardware cam lock fittings. Is it easy to do cam locks (or an NPT fitting that a cam lock could be put on) instead of tri clover? Or I suppose I could find a way to rig tri clover to cam.

Also, is there any concern with mounting this a couple feet below a BG14 that'll be running at full blast under a kettle while the water comes to temp and during the boil?
Click to expand...

Both in and out are open fair game for any part you want to add.

I don't think there is going to be any issues a couple feet. I would just take a good temp and feel where you plan on mounting it.

Cheers
Jay
 
Toadies said:
Sounds excellent to me! Any thoughts on the PID controller not having SSR relay?.
Click to expand...


I think that most relays that are built these days have a fairly good switching life. Personally my HLT has been running off the same relay for the last 12+ years no SSR there. But I cant really answer that question about THIS PID as I have only tested it the one time and don't know what switch lifespan it has.
I am really just offering it as a low cost option. I will contact Auber tomorrow and ask them some of these questions.

Cheers
Jay
 
How much for the tube, element and attaching hardware(clamp,gaskets,washer) only?

Will the first order be 2 in. tubes or 1.5 in.?

I only have access to 110V and was wondering if a 2000W fold back element would fit inside. What is the inside length of the tube or what is the largest standard type element that might fit?
 
ba-brewer said:
How much for the tube, element and attaching hardware(clamp,gaskets,washer) only?

Will the first order be 2 in. tubes or 1.5 in.?

I only have access to 110V and was wondering if a 2000W fold back element would fit inside. What is the inside length of the tube or what is the largest standard type element that might fit?
Click to expand...

2" only at this point. Going to start here and see if we even need to go with 1.5" Not sure if the fold back element you have will fit in the tube. If it will fit in a standard 2" tube it will fit in this one.

Let me get to my store and I will find you an exact price. It will be everything without the PID you would just deduct $64 or $66 for the PID
Cheers
Jay
 
Inside length is 13.5" and totally able to custom build longer or shorter. Obviously there will be a custom cut charge and material but were totally able and willing to do it.

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
2" only at this point. Going to start here and see if we even need to go with 1.5" Not sure if the fold back element you have will fit in the tube. If it will fit in a standard 2" tube it will fit in this one.

Let me get to my store and I will find you an exact price. It will be everything without the PID you would just deduct $64 or $66 for the PID
Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

I am just interested in the tube and element stuff , none of the output fitting or PID.

I dont have the element, but if you stay with 2" it should be OK.

Is the wattage listed on the morebeer site correct? I am assuming the element is a passive device so power should increase by 4 not 2 for 220V operation. Did you check the current drain when running your tests?
 
ba-brewer said:
I am just interested in the tube and element stuff , none of the output fitting or PID.

I dont have the element, but if you stay with 2" it should be OK.

Is the wattage listed on the morebeer site correct? I am assuming the element is a passive device so power should increase by 4 not 2 for 220V operation. Did you check the current drain when running your tests?
Click to expand...

Same here as to wanting just the tube and element as I have everything else. Have you thought of offering mounting brackets too?
 
Submitted the pre-order. Now to find a pump and sparge arm. It never fails I need more equipment.

Thanks Jaybird for creating this package!
 
ba-brewer said:
I am just interested in the tube and element stuff , none of the output fitting or PID.

I dont have the element, but if you stay with 2" it should be OK.

Is the wattage listed on the morebeer site correct? I am assuming the element is a passive device so power should increase by 4 not 2 for 220V operation. Did you check the current drain when running your tests?
Click to expand...

I'll get some other packages together as well and get those listed. I wanted to get this up since I had so many PM's asking when is it gonna be done :)

Give me a few days and I will have it entirely broken down into just parts to buy as well.

Cheers
Jay
 
ba-brewer said:
How much for the tube, element and attaching hardware(clamp,gaskets,washer) only?

Will the first order be 2 in. tubes or 1.5 in.?

I only have access to 110V and was wondering if a 2000W fold back element would fit inside. What is the inside length of the tube or what is the largest standard type element that might fit?
Click to expand...

ba-brewer said:
I am just interested in the tube and element stuff , none of the output fitting or PID.

I dont have the element, but if you stay with 2" it should be OK.

Is the wattage listed on the morebeer site correct? I am assuming the element is a passive device so power should increase by 4 not 2 for 220V operation. Did you check the current drain when running your tests?
Click to expand...

Vandulus said:
Same here as to wanting just the tube and element as I have everything else. Have you thought of offering mounting brackets too?
Click to expand...

all the rest of the "PARTS" HOPEFULLY will be listed today as separate parts.

The tube itself SKU 3037 is $58.99
The element SKU 3038 is $39.99
The 2" Cap drilled @ 1.25" for the element SKU 3042 is $9.99

All the rest of the "parts" are on the website already. Clamps, gaskets, ball valves ETC..

If you want to get some of these going just PM me and I can hook you up with an option to get your orders going.

Cheers
Jay
 
Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44

As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44

As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help with my decision Jay (sticking with the economic version). I'm excited, my wife thinks I'm insane as this is all I talk about.
 
Ok Jay, I am ready to order parts of this. I need the element, controller and 2" TC cap with 1.25" hole. How do I get it done?
 
Jaybird said:
Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44

As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

There is an error in the posted wattages on the morebeer site for the element, have you determined what the wattage is for that unit? I email morebeer but have heard back from them.

Also what is the diameter of the element?
 
ba-brewer said:
There is an error in the posted wattages on the morebeer site for the element, have you determined what the wattage is for that unit? I email morebeer but have heard back from them.

Also what is the diameter of the element?
Click to expand...


I'll clamp it tomorrow at full load and see what the current is. That will tell us a lot.

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
I'll clamp it tomorrow at full load and see what the current is. That will tell us a lot.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

Got a response from morebeer, they say it is only 550W at 110V. They also said they would have a higher wattage one in a couple months.

I guess if it gets the job done that is what matters. I am sure it will work for maintaining mash temp but I am more interested in using the RIMS for step mashing. What sort of times you getting for the 5gal tests, do think it will preform the same with grain in the mashtun?
 
ba-brewer said:
Got a response from morebeer, they say it is only 550W at 110V. They also said they would have a higher wattage one in a couple months.

I guess if it gets the job done that is what matters. I am sure it will work for maintaining mash temp but I am more interested in using the RIMS for step mashing. What sort of times you getting for the 5gal tests, do think it will preform the same with grain in the mashtun?
Click to expand...

From their website. The reason I bought them. 1100 Watts at 110 VAC

I will be doing a full load test later today. Its been SUPER SLAMMED in the store so as soon as it slows down I will blast back to the testing shop and check it out.


A powerful, 304 stainless steel heating element well suited for most kettles. With its weldless design and a diameter of 1 1/4" it's easy to install. Install by simply drilling a 1.25" hole in your kettle and tightening the nut from the outside. The heating element requires a power cord which can be purchased separately (Cable is a computer power cord - IEC320 C13 to nema 5-15P). 11.5" Long

Features:

Dual Power Output - Feed 110v power for 1100w, or 220v power for 2200 watts! (IEC Female socket can be hooked up to 110 or 220 v)
Food grade, high temperature silicone seal
The element itself is 11.5 in long, 0.75 in. Diameter.

If it is only 550 I would be super surprised.

Cheers
Jay
 
I sent you a PM with the email text.

I was thinking from your numbers it was 1100W too as it does not seem like 550W would do that kind of heating, but the fact is doubling the voltage will increase power by 4 if the element is a passive element. If it is 1100Ws then 220 will give 4400Ws not 2200W.
 
No, but they said they expect to get a higher wattage one in a few months.

I am new to RIMS stuff but if the unit functions "as is" then maybe 1100 is not that important.
 
ba-brewer said:
No, but they said they expect to get a higher wattage one in a few months.

I am new to RIMS stuff but if the unit functions "as is" then maybe 1100 is not that important.
Click to expand...

Me too, the reason I am picking this solution is the all-in one package convenient.

I'm sure this will work. Btw I bought this pump. Keeping it cheap :D.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you ever run the test?



Jaybird said:
From their website. The reason I bought them. 1100 Watts at 110 VAC

I will be doing a full load test later today. Its been SUPER SLAMMED in the store so as soon as it slows down I will blast back to the testing shop and check it out.


A powerful, 304 stainless steel heating element well suited for most kettles. With its weldless design and a diameter of 1 1/4" it's easy to install. Install by simply drilling a 1.25" hole in your kettle and tightening the nut from the outside. The heating element requires a power cord which can be purchased separately (Cable is a computer power cord - IEC320 C13 to nema 5-15P). 11.5" Long

Features:

Dual Power Output - Feed 110v power for 1100w, or 220v power for 2200 watts! (IEC Female socket can be hooked up to 110 or 220 v)
Food grade, high temperature silicone seal
The element itself is 11.5 in long, 0.75 in. Diameter.

If it is only 550 I would be super surprised.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...
 
Sorry guys with holiday and the mad scramble of the store the last several days I have not had a chance to look at all the requests. A lot of these will be answered today.

Again guys sorry for the delay

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
(R) = 12.3
(I) = 9.7
(V) = 120
(P) = 1171

There it is gents
Measured using my Fluke 87

Came in at almost 1200 watts at 120VAC

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...
Well it looks like the information I go from morebeer was wrong, sorry for any confusion I may of caused.

When I seen the listed power numbers only doubled between 120 and 220 one of those could not be right. Good to hear the 120 power was correct.
 
ba-brewer said:
Well it looks like the information I go from morebeer was wrong, sorry for any confusion I may of caused.

When I seen the listed power numbers only doubled between 120 and 220 one of those could not be right. Good to hear the 120 power was correct.
Click to expand...

I have a buddy with a 240v plug in his garage. I'll see if I can pull some numbers in the future.
 

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