Resealing Hop Bags

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ChickenHops

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I went overboard on my hops buying last fall (12 lbs, 10 varieties). I quickly realized that I needed a way to extend the shelf life as much as possible, especially after opening a bag for the first time. After some experimentation I settled on purging the original bags with nitrogen (they're also stored in a freezer). I don't have any empirical evidence regarding how well N2 purging works, but the cost is pretty minimal and the process (now that I have it down) is pretty effortless.

Some background regarding cost. I bought an extra 20# CO2 tank off craigslist last fall. The seller also had a CO2 regulator. The gauges were broken. The seller also had a second tank. It turned out to be nitrogen.

I replaced the gauges in the regulator and had a complete (second) CO2 system. The CO2 tank was nearly full. The whole setup set me back less than $50. At the time the N2 tank was an afterthought.

The N2 tank was empty. I swapped it for a full tank. Cost to fill was $15. It should last me forever. I had to buy an adapter to use the CO2 gauge on the N2 tank. Cost for the adapter was around $15.

I already had some compressor accessories, including a hand valve with a needle valve. I used that with an air compressor to fill kid's basketballs, footballs, etc. Here's what my sub-$50 "purging station" looks like:

2827-nitrogen-tank-attachment-bag-filling.jpg


Here's a closeup of the hand valve with needle valve. I think around $10 at most hardware stores.


2828-bag-filling-attachment.jpg


I try and work with hops bags in an area separate from where I grind grains, brew, etc. I'm not sure if it matters, but I feel that handling hops away from those areas whenever possible reduces the chance of contamination (especially is important if the hops might be used for dry hopping). When I open a large hop bag I only take out what I think I'll use over the next month or so. I cut a large corner of the bag to remove the hops. (this process also works for one pound bags of pellets)

2830-open-corner-bag-pour-out-amount-hops-needed.jpg


Initially I used an iron to seal up the mylar bags. I discovered that hair straighteners work even better. Found the one below at Goodwill. $2

2829-hair-straightener-bag-sealing-can-use-iron-but-more-convenient.jpg


After removing the hops that I need I seal the large opening so that only a small opening remains. Doing so makes it easier to fill and purge the bag. If the opening is too large, it allows air to flow back in the bag after purging, or bits of leaf hops to blow out of the bag when purging. If the hole is too small it takes too long to purge the nitrogen. I found that a 1/4 to 1/2 inch opening is about right.

2831-seal-all-but-one-small-corner-bag.jpg


Next I place the needle valve in the small hole and fill the bag with nitrogen.

2832-fill-bag-nitrogen-using-small-hole-corner-bag.jpg


Once filled, I purge the bag by squeezing. I've even put the bag under a pillow or a large book to get out nearly all the air. I'm not sure how critical it it is to purge all the gases, but the more you purge the less room the bag takes up in the freezer.

Again, having a smaller hole prevents air from being sucked back into the bag once I remove the pressure. I perform a fill and purge 3 or 4 times. I'm not sure how much O2 is left in the bag. I hope it isn't a lot. (Sometimes I wonder if this is all a waste of time, but common sense tells me it makes a difference. And it really doesn't take that much effort.).

As a sidebar, the hop aroma is (or should be) pretty strong when you purge the bag. A good sniff gives a good indication of the different aroma characteristics in different varieties.

2835-purge-nitrogen-repeat-fill-purge-several-times.jpg


After the last purge I seal the remaining small hole. On the final purge I'm particularly careful not to allow any air back into the bag.

2833-after-filling-purging-several-times-seal-small-opening-put-bag-back-freezer.jpg


I store hops in the original bags as much as possible. I also have a vacuum sealer which I use. My initial plan was to repackage all the hops into vacuum bags. However, after doing this with one bag (which had 20 oz of hops) I found that the vacuum bags took the same or more freezer space than the original mylar bag. Plus, vacuum bags are costly and filling them with hops is a bit of a pain.

2834-small-quantities-used-near-future-i-seal-vacuum-packs.jpg


My N2 filling (and purging) process took a little while to refine. It now takes very little effort. For people who already have a CO2 system all you need is an N2 tank and adapter, as long as your regulator can handle the higher pressure of N2.

I wont' know for a while how long hops will last using this process. I can say that bags that I first opened and resealed 6 months ago still seem as fresh as the day I first opened them. It's nice to have plenty of quantity and variety on hand at all times.

BTW, nitrogen isn't just handy for brewing. I even use it to top off the (N2 filled) tires on my car when they get low.
 
Cool! I saw that straightener and thought "SWMBO would kill me if I used her straightener like that!"

You know if you ever go overboard on hops again you can save yourself all that trouble and just send some my way!
 
How important is it that the gas used is nitrogen? Would CO2 work just as well? Isn't the only thing that is important to eliminate oxygen contact, or is there some other reason to use nitrogen?
 
The value of hops (and beer) that I've given to friends is probably greater than the cost of all my equipment. No problem. Friends usually return the favor.

The real benefit of prolonging the shelf life of hops is that it allows me to have much more variety on hand. The closest LHBS is very distant. Before long I may have to make ethanol just so I can afford to drive there. :)

I buy in quantity whenever possible. I brew more than I ever thought I would. It bothers me when I need one thing -- hops or other ingredient -- to make something I want to make. Luckily I doubled up buying Amarillo last fall. It's hard to find now. I have plenty, I hope! :mug:
 
How important is it that the gas used is nitrogen? Would CO2 work just as well? Isn't the only thing that is important to eliminate oxygen contact, or is there some other reason to use nitrogen?

Really good question about CO2 vs N2. I wondered that myself. I recall doing some research, and can't remember finding anything definitive one way or the other. I'm no expert, but I know that nitrogen is relatively inert and it's used in packaging to preserve perishables. CO2 might work just as well.

I use nitrogen because I happened upon an inexpensive tank. It's also smaller and easier to move around since my CO2 tanks are both 20#. I've also wondered about using N2 to dispense beer once it's carbonated just right.
 
I stumbled across this looking for the CO2 answer.

Extensive organoleptic and microbial assessment of food products packaged or processed using argon-based gas mixtures showed excellent preservation of flavor and other quality characteristics. Compared to classical nitrogen-based modified atmosphere packaging (MAP), argon displaces oxygen more efficiently, prevents oxidation, and yields superior results. Quantitative data obtained from in-house double-blind sensory panels, competing product quality challenges and testing at point of manufacture were integrated with microbial assays throughout shelf life to determine relative quality scores. Products tested include wine, cheese, potato chips, nuts, pizzas, processed meats, poultry, orange juice, fresh pasta, prepared meals, and produce. Comparative studies with these products show that argon yields both a significant extension of shelf life and an average of 25% improvement in quantifiable quality parameters such as flavor, appearance, aroma, color, texture, and overall customer acceptability. Argon preserves chemical flavor components better than other techniques, resulting in significant improvements in shelf life and product quality.
(warning, paysite)
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/bk-2003-0836.ch020



I know that Argon is about 19.00 at the welding store near my house. You'll need a bottle ($70, and what looks like free shipping and a ****ty website):
http://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com

and a regulator ($29 harbor freight) :
http://www.harborfreight.com/regulator-gauge-94841.html

and some bits to connect it all (that you probably have if you are running your own draft).

I am going to try argon tomorrow. If you're sadly trying to tig-weld large piles of stainless crap together and call it a brewery, you probably have argon just laying around smirking at you.
Not that I'd know from experience.
 
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