The Beer Engine arrived!

Nice discussion on the Sparklers. I'd been dissapointed to not get the guiness type pour. I thought that was just part of using an engine.

mmb said:

Glad you asked. It's a device that allows cask beer fanatics to complain about each other.

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the anti-sparkler crowd (myself included, though I really don't care) say that the sparkler kills hop flavor and takes away from the natural subtlety of cask beer. I think you will find that using an LPG regulator to blanket the beer that you will get plenty of head on the beer even without a sparkler. I'd rather not even have a swan neck, but it seems hard to find pumps without it.

Or if you wanted to be really fancy you could use the sparkler when you make northern english beers and take it off for southern english beers, though some will even debate this dichotomy.

http://stonch.blogspot.com/2007/10/stonchs-survey-2-sparkler-debate.html

I was wondering if someone would post about the swan neck thing. I've never seen a pump without one but I've never been to The Jolly Olde.

*shrug*

Bsquared said:

I got a hold of a guy David from Worthside, who was supper helpful and explaned how to take apart the Engine and what to look for that would be causing the problem. He said that the gaskets should be good because the the stickers on the unit said it was last serviced in 2005,and they last a while.

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Yes, I have ordered a set of replacement gaskets from the UK, and a set of 3 different sized sparklers. I've read that they help out a lot.

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Bsquared, I apologize for not responding sooner. I'm starting to really get annoyed with life interfering with my fun

I'm happy to see that you got such good info from the Worthside guys. My pump body looks a wee bit different than yours , but it comes apart just as you described. I was particularly interested to see you were able to order some parts. Can you send me the contact info you have for ordering those parts? I think it would be a really good idea to have spares on hand! You can PM the info if you'd like.

I'm looking forward to seeing yours pumping some beer. Video please

MrH

+1 to a video

We broke in the beer engine this weekend with an English IPA pulled through a Randal filled with fuggles and EKG! I'm still enjoying the last of the keg, which is holding up surprisingly well.

I have an extra Sanyo mini fridge that I hooked up to a controller to keep the kegs a 55ºF. From there I hooked up the keg to a canister water filter filled with a few Oz's of fuggle and ekg. Then I connected the canister with a 1/2line to the beer engine and pulled it through.

To the inlet of the keg I hooked up an in line air filter that vented air in through a 20µM filter.

Also I got some sparklers and played with them a little, and decided that I don't like sparklers

I want and want some more...

Nice photos and an interesting idea to hook the enamel stripping animal to a beer engine.

mmb said:

I want and want some more...

Nice photos and an interesting idea to hook the enamel stripping animal to a beer engine.

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Is that why my teeth feel fuzzy today?

Bsquared said:

To the inlet of the keg I hooked up an in line air filter that vented air in through a 20µM filter.

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I'd be interested to hear a little more about this. Did you use a check valve to just let air in and not let the natural carbonation pressure out? Or just the filter? What sort of filter did you use?

I'm brewing an ale that's destined for cask serving today. Splitting it into two, 2.5 gallon cornies.

-Joe

nostalgia said:

I'd be interested to hear a little more about this. Did you use a check valve to just let air in and not let the natural carbonation pressure out? Or just the filter? What sort of filter did you use?

I'm brewing an ale that's destined for cask serving today. Splitting it into two, 2.5 gallon cornies.

-Joe

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I got an aquarium check valve for $3, it restricts air flow to one direction.I installed it so it restricted the air flow to air coming into the keg. I installed it with 1/4in ID hose and hose clamps (and a zip tie because i ran out of small clamps.) I think it worked well to keep the CO2 from leaking out of the keg, but pulling air in to replace the beer that was pulled out of the engine.

The cornie worked great, I did not modify the dip tube or set the cornie on its side, the suction from the engine was sufficient to pull the beer up and out.

Great info, B2. Thanks for the answer!

-Joe

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I was wondering if anyone had a lead on where to pickup replacement parts for this engine? I have one that's leaking from around a small cork seal and haven't got a clue where to get a new one.

Thanks,

I got some replacement parts for my worthside from eBAY.co.UK here is a link for a company selling a new engine I bet they will have parts.

This is the guy I got my parts from. Retail-trading

Shoot him an email.

Thanks, mate. I was hoping that there was a US distributor somewhere since I hate paying $5 shipping for a part that costs 40p. But seeing as my engine is useless without one, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet.

Dumb question, but why are these so expensive? Looks like most of the actual mechanism is plastic, followed by a small amount of hardwood and the handle.

They are very cool, I just don't get the price tag. What am I missing here?

They are for the most part made in England, and for whatever reason, It costs a boat load to ship any thing from england to the US. I think for the most part too is there is not a ton of demand for these. Only a few companies make them, and as far as I know...no Chinese manufactures.

the best price I have seen for a new one is through Northern Brewer, + they sell pins and Firkins.

Every time I see threads on beer engines I want one so bad, but the price has always turned me off. I have seen a few DYI engines but nothing looks cooler than a authentic one.

Coldies said:

Every time I see threads on beer engines I want one so bad, but the price has always turned me off. I have seen a few DYI engines but nothing looks cooler than a authentic one.

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Some times you just need to pull the trigger.

I love mine, but I've only been able to use it a few times. But thats going to change in the next few months I hope.

Okay Im gonna biuld a DYI one. I plan on carbing with sugar and putting a small blanket of co2 on it. I'm gonna use a check valve that will not allow the air/blanket of co2 to escape but will pull air in through a hepa filter. Now its time to brew a mild. Thanks for the inspiration Bsquared.

Bsquared said:

They are for the most part made in England, and for whatever reason, It costs a boat load to ship any thing from england to the US. I think for the most part too is there is not a ton of demand for these. Only a few companies make them, and as far as I know...no Chinese manufactures.

the best price I have seen for a new one is through Northern Brewer, + they sell pins and Firkins.

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BSquared, can you share the shipping method that was used? I have soem friends in England and might be able to get them to find/ship one to me, but I have no idea what method to use?

They had it shipped through the English postal system, the problem we ran into was with declaring its value, so it got sent back to England once before finally arrived. You might want to contact UPS of Fed ex too, and see what there rates are. If your friends are shipping it for you, they will be able to ship it with out declaring a sale price so you might get the shipping down that way.

BSquared,
Scored an engine on ebay.uk.com and have a friend coming over from London next month so having him bring it as luggage (Saves a ton of cash)

Assuming all is well (guy I bought it from says it is in working order), I am curious how the engine connects up. In other words, what size beer line from the keg/pin/whatever to the engine. Any help will be appreciated.

Also, do you have a check valve (or does the engine) between the keg and the engine to prevent backflow? I see you put a check valve on the gas in to prevent losing CO2 to atmosphere (I plan to do the LPG "breather")

Have a triple chocolate oatmeal milk stout (ain't that a mouthful) waiting to be pulled through this

Awesome score!

My beer engine has a 5/8" barb connection, and I use a 5/8od hose to a 5/8x1/4 nylon adapter i got at homedepot.I dont have a check valve but I can see howe this would be a good ides especially if you are not planing on drinking the whole keg in a day or two.

Engine should be here next week. Hope it works. Bought a LPG regulator as a breather. Cheapest I found was here:
https://secure.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?r=view&i=447324

Free shipping (have to pay tax). $9 all in

Got the engine. Last week when my mate visited

Its a Homark Engine. Company has been out of business for some time.

The seller did a totally s**ty job packing this and so the handle is chipped (porcelain at the top) and the entire inlet tail was broken straight off and beat up, so now trying to figure out a new input. CFBS has one, but its ~$40 shipped to the US. Looking to cobble something together with local parts. John Guest makes a BSPT fitting that should fit the cylinder and start the whole thing.

Pump works however. Before I removed the broken piece from the cylinder I managed to wedge some vinyl tubing into the hole and was able to pull water from a bucket below.

Fairly ticked off, but the return shipping cost negates trying to send it back. Caveat emptor I guess

Ugh...that sucks.sure hope you can get it up and running.

BSquared,

Gonna buy a new inlet tail, but it has a 1/2" barb on it ( and built in check valve). Wondwring wher in teh line you made your restriction/reduction in line size? Close to the engine? or close to the keg (assuming you are using Cornies)

I put the reduction in the middle, I dont think it matters too much because the system is not under pressure like keged beer is.

@geepmaley Reach out to Alex Hall... he may have some HoMark parts

Jay,

Already tried Alex. No joy.,.....

But found Collin Farris Brewing Supplies in the UK can help out. Just trying to nail down what I need to buy.

Good news! I am excited for you (and just a little bit jealous )

Got my new regulator (Taprite 742 $35 delivered via ebay) and my LPG regulator 'Cask breather'. Waiting on the parts from Jolly olde England to repair the pump (seal kit plus new inlet tail), then its off to the races.

Questions:

Do you have poly pins and if so, where do you get them?

My triple chocolate oatmeal milk stout is ready to go waiting the pump

I got a stainless pin from Northern brewer at NHC almost two years ago, but have not used it yet. Having a little one and lots of house projects has put the brewing on hold. The time I did try and use it, i put in priming sugar and ended up blowing out the bungs and spraying 5 gallons of beer all over my brew room!

Got my parts from England today. Now have to figure out how to hook it up to the keg.

Yo usaid you had a 5/8 to 1/4 reducer. I guess I need to fine one.

My inlet tail is 1/2", though, so need 1/2 to 1/4" tough to find.

What 1/2" beer line did you use?

I got a Nylon reducing barb from ACE, and used vinyl tubing for 1/2" line.

Bsquared said:

I got a Nylon reducing barb from ACE, and used vinyl tubing for 1/2" line.

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Just straight vinyl from ACE or actual beer lien from some place?

Yes, just regular tubing. Its a short length so I paned on replacing it each use or so. also because there is no (or little) CO2 you don't have to calculate resistance like you would have to do with a draft system.