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Yeah, considering getting a second fermentor from them as they are pretty cheap right now. Anyone know the difference in quality of the new black spigots as oppose to the old ones? Apparently they are better quality, have better seal?
 
I just bought a couple of the new spigots a month ago, hoping that they would be better than the white ones. They do seem to be harder material but I did have an issue getting them to seal properly.
 
Oginme said:
I just bought a couple of the new spigots a month ago, hoping that they would be better than the white ones. They do seem to be harder material but I did have an issue getting them to seal properly.
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I was just curious if I could swap out the Mr. Beer spigot with a bottling one I found at a local home brew store. The listed size is 5/16 - 3/8.
 
Holiday101 said:
I was just curious if I could swap out the Mr. Beer spigot with a bottling one I found at a local home brew store. The listed size is 5/16 - 3/8.
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I looked into doing that but the hole in the MBK is just a little too small. I contemplated trying to ream it out, but didn't want to ruin the MBK. Aside from that, the spigots available are longer than the ones available from Mr. Beer, so the outlet would be below the sitting level of the MBK.
 
Yeah, my Mr beer that I got for Christmas came without a spigot. So I picked one up at a homebrew shop. Arugh it was too big for the hole, (kept it to make a bottling bucket someday). In January when a replacement spigot arrived , (black one?), I put it in and checked for leaks. It leaked.... I had to do some careful trimming around the hole. One side is slightly higher because there is a seam at the hole. I shaved the high spots down at a 45° angle, matching the gasket. No leaks :).
 
So, I'm thinking about making hard root beer using a Mr Beer Classic American Light refill kit.

If I understand correctly, I would brew the CAL in my LBK as normal. When the beer is done fermenting, transfer the 2 gallons of beer to a sanitized steel pot big enough, then gently mix the beer with 2 to 3 cups of sugar, and 2/3 bottle of root beer concentrate, (the one I picked up, “Watkins 2 oz”, makes 3 gallons of root beer), and bottle.

When the bottles are carbonated, (Squeeze test plastic bottles), pasteurize the bottles to stop the yeast, https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=193295.

Any thoughts?
 
olephart said:
So, I'm thinking about making hard root beer using a Mr Beer Classic American Light refill kit.

If I understand correctly, I would brew the CAL in my LBK as normal. When the beer is done fermenting, transfer the 2 gallons of beer to a sanitized steel pot big enough, then gently mix the beer with 2 to 3 cups of sugar, and 2/3 bottle of root beer concentrate, (the one I picked up, “Watkins 2 oz”, makes 3 gallons of root beer), and bottle.

When the bottles are carbonated, (Squeeze test plastic bottles), pasteurize the bottles to stop the yeast, https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=193295.

Any thoughts?
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My only thought is that when I used Watkins extract, I was disappointed. It wasn't a very strong root beer flavor. I have had good results with McCormick's every time. It's usually in the baking section of bigger stores (but not all stores carry it).
 
Thanks, I'll keep looking for McCormicks.

If I have to use the Watkins, I will add it to taste even if it takes the whole 2oz. I could add more vanilla too.
 
TonyKZ1 said:
Yep, that'll be fine. Quite a few people do that with the LBKs. I've now got a 2.5G Slimline (basically a square water jug) to use as a bottling bucket. I was using a 2G bucket for my 1G recipes but happened upon this 2.5G slimline deal so now I can use to bottle my 1-2G recipes.
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My 2.5g Slimline just broke... After 2 years I dropped it on the floor!
 
As for the spigot I saw a video where a guy swapped out the standard with a small sized bottling spigot he got from a home brew shop with only a small modification. The spout is a little longer but not by that much. Mr. Beer has a wand & spigot they sell but shipping to Canada is like $24 so I'd rather find a local solution.

As for the alcoholic root beer I'm actually thinking now along the lines of using natural spices and perhaps no more sweetness than a Quad.
 
Anybody ever try a extract recipe from the Briess web site in a LBK? I'm thinking about brewing their "Turtle on a Log".

http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Recipes/beer/display/turtle-on-a-log

It's for 5 gal. But I think that if I half the recipie, 2.5 gal. Should fit in a LBK.
 
So I'm about to do a partial mash + the one can of American Lite extract. I've seen some info on how to go about this but I am still uncertain on amounts and such. Essentially I'm trying to make a better beer with the extract that I have. I'm even thinking of going a little stronger ABV. At any rate I'm trying to figure if I should have 1 gallon of wort via BIAB + the extract and then another gallon of water added (I suppose at the sparge process) for a 2 gallon batch. If so then how much grain am I using and what kinds?

I'm thinking it be nice to do a citrusy hoppy strong beer around 6-6.5% Extract alone is rated at 5% ABV.
 
Holiday101 said:
So I'm about to do a partial mash + the one can of American Lite extract. I've seen some info on how to go about this but I am still uncertain on amounts and such. Essentially I'm trying to make a better beer with the extract that I have. I'm even thinking of going a little stronger ABV. At any rate I'm trying to figure if I should have 1 gallon of wort via BIAB + the extract and then another gallon of water added (I suppose at the sparge process) for a 2 gallon batch. If so then how much grain am I using and what kinds?

I'm thinking it be nice to do a citrusy hoppy strong beer around 6-6.5% Extract alone is rated at 5% ABV.
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Take a look at this thread. I tried adding an LME on the advice of my LHBS and it didn't turn out so great.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=164140
 
I have two MB fermenters and am making 5 gallon batches. I figure I can split my wort and experiment with different dry hop ideas. Anyone else doing this?
 
At some point, I will probably make 5 gallons of BierMuncher's Centennial Blonde, but not gonna mess with it. I just have 2 LBKs now.

:)
 
Never brewed with a Mr. Beer kit, or the LBK. I did pick up a couple cases of the Mr. Beer 1/2 liter brown bottles for a 5 gal batch, and bottled with them yesterday. Only comment - the necks are so dark, it was somewhat difficult to see through them - had to open the kitchen blinds and turn on all the lights on to make sure they were filled to where they should be. Other than that, easy peasy.
 
Yep, I can't wait to taste it. But I don't want to brew it just yet, I'm "working" on emptying a case of Grosh bottles first.

I noticed some of their recipes have detailed instructions. I.e. temp to ferment, how long, etc. Of course this on doesn't.
 
BrewinBromanite said:
Yep. I cut a small piece to attach to it. Works flawlessly, once you get the flow rate down to prevent too many bubbles. Never bothered with a bottling wand. View attachment 339613
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A bottling wand gives other advantages. I'm not saying your approach won't work (it has for you).

But if you want beer to stay fresh for a year or more, filling from the bottom is better.
 
bpgreen said:
A bottling wand gives other advantages. I'm not saying your approach won't work (it has for you).

But if you want beer to stay fresh for a year or more, filling from the bottom is better.
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Never tried a bottling wand, so can't compare. However, if you take your time and make sure the flow rate is slow and smooth, it fills up with zero bubbles. Takes a few tries to get your technique down, but just set the ones with a little foam aside for a minute, and then cap or top off a little if needed. You could always cut a longer tube to start closer to the bottom, but this works really well. Unless you're getting really crazy and trying to rush it, there's virtually no foaming/bubbles - so there's no issues storing over a year if the recipe is suited to it. Never had any oxidized bottles, and have had some nearly 2 years old that tasted great.

That being said, I may look into a bottling wand, and if I already had one, I'd probably try it out. Are they easy to use solo, or is a brew-buddy recommended?
 
BrewinBromanite said:
Never tried a bottling wand, so can't compare. However, if you take your time and make sure the flow rate is slow and smooth, it fills up with zero bubbles. Takes a few tries to get your technique down, but just set the ones with a little foam aside for a minute, and then cap or top off a little if needed. You could always cut a longer tube to start closer to the bottom, but this works really well. Unless you're getting really crazy and trying to rush it, there's virtually no foaming/bubbles - so there's no issues storing over a year if the recipe is suited to it. Never had any oxidized bottles, and have had some nearly 2 years old that tasted great.

That being said, I may look into a bottling wand, and if I already had one, I'd probably try it out. Are they easy to use solo, or is a brew-buddy recommended?
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Bottling wands are very easy to use. You just put it in the bottle and press down to start the beer flowing. When the bottle is full, lift the wand off the bottom and the beer stops flowing. When you take the wand out, the bottle is filled with the right amount of beer.

I've never used a beer-buddy and when I searched for it, all I found were links to an app.
 
bpgreen said:
Bottling wands are very easy to use. You just put it in the bottle and press down to start the beer flowing. When the bottle is full, lift the wand off the bottom and the beer stops flowing. When you take the wand out, the bottle is filled with the right amount of beer.

I've never used a beer-buddy and when I searched for it, all I found were links to an app.
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I don't know if you'll have much luck finding a brew-buddy searching online (except maybe on this site perhaps), although there's all sorts of websites these days... :mug: Just joking of course!

I was asking whether or not a bottling wand is easy enough to use without an extra set of hands (aka - a buddy or helper / 2-man process)? My "brew-buddy" (my bro-in-law) recently bailed on me after brewing together the last several years, so I recruited my younger cousin to help out. He's now in "intern" phase, so he's assigned mostly on the cleaning and heavy-lifting duty. And gets some free beer at the end, so he should be back :D:mug:
 
BrewinBromanite said:
I don't know if you'll have much luck finding a brew-buddy searching online (except maybe on this site perhaps), although there's all sorts of websites these days... :mug: Just joking of course!

I was asking whether or not a bottling wand is easy enough to use to use without an extra set of hands (aka - a buddy or helper / 2-man process)? My "brew-buddy" (my bro-in-law) recently bailed on me after brewing together the last several years, so I recruited my younger cousin to help out. He's now in "intern" phase, so he's assigned mostly on the cleaning and heavy-lifting duty. And gets some free beer at the end, so he should be back :D:mug:
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Ok. I've always brewed alone. It has been a long time since I've bottled, but if I remember correctly, I found it easier to bottle worth the wand than without.
 
bpgreen said:
Ok. I've always brewed alone. It has been a long time since I've bottled, but if I remember correctly, I found it easier to bottle worth the wand than without.
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Just watched a few youtube videos of using a bottling wand. Looks simple enough, although, every bottle I saw filled seemed to produce air bubbles/slight foaming -- I assume due to the beer traveling through the small space of the valve. Wouldn't be enough for me to worry about at any rate, but I just wanted to note that the small tube attached to the spigot method can actually result it much less bubbling than what I saw in the videos if you're careful enough (ie...slow flow rate, don't rush it, and tilt the bottle on its side slightly when filling to prevent sloshing). I do like the consistency of the bottle-fills with the wand, though. I may pick one up and try it out on my next brew just for the heck of it, and to compare for myself. My only gripe with my current process is that it's difficult to get the perfect (or at least consistent) amount in each bottle, since you're basically just eye-balling it. The wand looks like it takes care of that issue at least, so might be worth it. That and if it speeds up the process slightly, that would be a bonus. Cheers.
 
BrewinBromanite said:
Just watched a few youtube videos of using a bottling wand. Looks simple enough, although, every bottle I saw filled seemed to produce air bubbles/slight foaming -- I assume due to the beer traveling through the small space of the valve. Wouldn't be enough for me to worry about at any rate, but I just wanted to note that the small tube attached to the spigot method can actually result it much less bubbling than what I saw in the videos if you're careful enough (ie...slow flow rate, don't rush it, and tilt the bottle on its side slightly when filling to prevent sloshing). I do like the consistency of the bottle-fills with the wand, though. I may pick one up and try it out on my next brew just for the heck of it, and to compare for myself. My only gripe with my current process is that it's difficult to get the perfect (or at least consistent) amount in each bottle, since you're basically just eye-balling it. The wand looks like it takes care of that issue at least, so might be worth it. That and if it speeds up the process slightly, that would be a bonus. Cheers.
Click to expand...
I don't know what bubbling you saw in videos, but if a bottling wand is used properly, there is much less chance for oxidation than bottling from the tap, no matter how careful you are. The reason for that is that when you bottle from the tap, the beer is traveling down the side of the bottle and is exposed to the air the entire time. With a bottling wand, there's no exposure until it hits the bottom of the bottle. If you're adding any oxygen anywhere else in the process, you're doing it wrong.

A bottling wand fixes your gripe of inconsistent fills. You fill to the top, remove the wand, and Bob's your uncle.
 
bpgreen said:
I don't know what bubbling you saw in videos, but if a bottling wand is used properly, there is much less chance for oxidation than bottling from the tap, no matter how careful you are. The reason for that is that when you bottle from the tap, the beer is traveling down the side of the bottle and is exposed to the air the entire time. With a bottling wand, there's no exposure until it hits the bottom of the bottle. If you're adding any oxygen anywhere else in the process, you're doing it wrong.

A bottling wand fixes your gripe of inconsistent fills. You fill to the top, remove the wand, and Bob's your uncle.
Click to expand...

If you are bottling from the tap, you should absolutely be using a beer gun or at least a growler filler.
 
I have a question. There is terminolgy or rather abbreviations I simply don't understand. SG is one abbreviation that I can't figure. I understand OG FG what is SG? Sugar gravity? Also what are the benefits of a refractometer over a hydrometer? Thanks!
 
SG = Specific Gravity

As for the refractometer vs hydrometer: Both are useful in different ways. I use my refractometer during the brew day to take quick readings of the gravity pre-boil and during the process. I use my hydrometer for post boil gravity and final gravity readings.

The refractometer uses less wort or beer, is fast, and can handle hot wort accurately. During fermentation and afterwards, the refractometer readings must be corrected for the refractive index of ethanol.

The hydrometer cannot handle hot liquids accurately and is best used with wort cooled to the calibration temperature listed on the scale.

I found that I needed to correlate my refractometer to achieve the same readings as I get with my hydrometer.
 
Hello everyone! I got my Mr. Beer from a clearance sale at the local Wally World for a whopping $10 along with 3 mixes.

I started the process and let it ferment for 2 weeks (16 days to be exact, work caused me to have to wait 2 extra days).

Anyway, I bottled the beer yesterday and the first 3 and last 2 bottles bottles were hazy, but all of the ones in between were clear. Should this be of any concern? I've read posts about some peoples being hazy but it was all of the bottles, not just a few of them.

I also tasted a bit of the beer before bottling from the tap on the Mr. Beer keg and it tasted like slightly funky flat beer...

I look forward to the responses and to trying the beer in a few weeks!

Thanks!
 
Nothing major. You may find the overall flavor of the beers with less yeast sediment to be cleaner and have a preference or you may not notice anything at all. I'd bet a BJCP judge would be able to tell the difference easily but they have trained palates looking for flaws. I used to cold crash and rack to secondary because of this in many of my beers. I would also sacrifice a fair amount of beer to stay away from the sediment. It's also harder to avoid bottle sediment in a 12oz bottle than in the mr beer 1L bottles. I just got a kegging system and am figure out the whole filtering thing right now. I'd say serve cold and pour all your beer servings at one time if you can.
 
Got it, thanks! Now just have to wait and see what the result is...

In the meantime, I'm going to start a new batch in the keg of the Mr. Beer Oktoberfest tonight... Gotta have something to do waiting all these weeks to drink my own first beer!
 

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