Cold Crashing????

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Actually i use a micro screen coffee filter. Going into the bottles is clear. But after2-3 weeks in the bottle, it settles out as this black crap.
 
Cold Crashing..... What I'm getting from this thread....

Cold crash at 40 degrees for 18 hours. To avoid a vacuum, use aluminium foil with a rubber band instead of an airlock and bung.

18 hours at 40 degrees.... is that correct?
 
18 hours at 40 degrees.... is that correct?

I don't believe that 18 hours at 40*F is sufficient.

It takes time for that 5 gallons of liquid to attain that colder temp. I'd suggest 2-3 days minimum. I typically do 5-7 days at 35-36*F.
 
I would say at least a day too,2-3 works good for me. I dont think the foil thing is the best idea either, why not just put a solid stopper plug in it? I would almost think foil could sneak some air in the carboy over a certain number of hours or days especially if crashing more than a few days.
 
I would say at least a day too,2-3 works good for me. I dont think the foil thing is the best idea either, why not just put a solid stopper plug in it? I would almost think foil could sneak some air in the carboy over a certain number of hours or days especially if crashing more than a few days.

Have you ever tried to get a stopper out of a carboy?
 
Cold Crashing..... What I'm getting from this thread....

Cold crash at 40 degrees for 18 hours. To avoid a vacuum, use aluminium foil with a rubber band instead of an airlock and bung.

18 hours at 40 degrees.... is that correct?

I use an elaborate algorithm accounting factors such as gravity, circumference to height ratio, volume, starting temp, distance from the sun, whether the cold crash begins at high/low-tide, barometric pressure, altitude, rotation of the earth, etc. Unfortunately, it's too complex to accurately convey in written or spoken language. Sometimes interpretive dance helps...the following may aid your understanding, but I doubt it: :ban:

Just to be safe, I'd recommend 34-36F for 2-7 days.
 
If you use an S airlock with StarSan inside, suck back from cold crashing is not an issue.
 
Im using a bucket fermenter, going to dry hop for about a week. Any differences with cold crashing using a bucket vs carboy? Any considerations needed when dry hopping?
 
I use cheap Vodka in my airlock, I wouldn't even think of using sanitizer becuz I've experienced suckback before and I don't relish the idea of drinking a bunch of unknown chemicals in my beer! Also, a sanitized balloon (turn it inside out becuz many of them have some kind of talc inside) would work better in my opinion than foil. If the foil/rubber band seal 'sucks back' it may burst a hole in it and then you have no longer have a seal (i.e. it's not flexible)! Just my 2 centavos....
 
I wouldn't even think of using sanitizer becuz I've experienced suckback before and I don't relish the idea of drinking a bunch of unknown chemicals in my beer!

Unknown chemicals? Even if it does suck back, 2 oz. of StarSan in 5 gallons of beer is going to have absolutely no effect.

You should probably have more than that 2 oz. worth of StarSan foam left in the keg after you sanitize prior to racking. If you don't you probably aren't sanitizing correctly.

Anyway, don't be scared to use StarSan in the airlock. There are no real drawbacks.
 
I use cheap Vodka in my airlock, I wouldn't even think of using sanitizer becuz I've experienced suckback before and I don't relish the idea of drinking a bunch of unknown chemicals in my beer!

I guess you're not at all concerned about what "unknown chemicals" might be in that cheap vodka. :D
 
One trick I have done to eliminate sucking sanitizer back in during cold crashing is to sanitize a small water balloon or Nitrile/Rubber Glove and stick it (the balloon or middle finger) through the airlock hole in the carboy stopper or bucket lid. I then put the airlock back on to hold it in place. Any suck back is then kept out of the beer. Once it is cold I can remove them and put the airlock back on to cover the hole if I fine with gelatin after a few days, but that's probably not necessary otherwise.
 
One trick I have done to eliminate sucking sanitizer back in during cold crashing is to sanitize a small water balloon or Nitrile/Rubber Glove and stick it (the balloon or middle finger) through the airlock hole in the carboy stopper or bucket lid. I then put the airlock back on to hold it in place. Any suck back is then kept out of the beer. Once it is cold I can remove them and put the airlock back on to cover the hole if I fine with gelatin after a few days, but that's probably not necessary otherwise.

Or you can just use one of these guys:

media.nl
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread but just a question

If you use an S airlock with StarSan inside, suck back from cold crashing is not an issue.

If you are sucking in air into the carboy is this not an issue? Or is CO2 heavier than air so it wont disrupt the CO2 bed on top of the fermented beer?
 
Yes, the air is not a big issue. Personally, I prefer the 2 piece airlocks -- I think you get less suck back.
 
You're over filling it. Otherwise it's impossible to get suck back with the S-type. It will bubble backwards.
 
As far as temperature goes, could I put my brew out on the back porch? Temps are getting in the 20's & 30's. Is this too cold?
 
Some help please! :confused:Tried to cold crash for the first time. I set my temp to 32 expecting it to take quite awhile to get he 5 gallon batch down. After about 12 hours I had some slush formed on the top inch of my beer. I turned the temp control to 36 but now its been a day and still have a slushy top layer. I was going to keg and force carb after 3 days but with the slush not sure what I should do? I am hoping the:confused:;) beer is not ruined, since I have drank partially frozen commercial beers with a significant difference.
 
Some help please! :confused:Tried to cold crash for the first time. I set my temp to 32 expecting it to take quite awhile to get he 5 gallon batch down. After about 12 hours I had some slush formed on the top inch of my beer. I turned the temp control to 36 but now its been a day and still have a slushy top layer. I was going to keg and force carb after 3 days but with the slush not sure what I should do? I am hoping the:confused:;) beer is not ruined, since I have drank partially frozen commercial beers with a significant difference.

Let it thaw and keg as normal. It should be fine. I've had the same thing happen before with no ill effects.
 
What hunter said above. Or, you can rack the beer out from underneath the slush. The beer will be slightly stronger in alcohol because the H20 is what has frozen. At 36, it will take a while to thaw out. Take it out of your fridge for a few hours. It'll be fine.
 
When using a converted chest freezer/fermentation chamber to cold crash, is it best to remove the temp prove that is taped to the side of the bucket and just set it loosely in the chamber? Well this method just turn the chamber into a fridge rather than running the freezer non-stop until 5 gallons of beer is cooled down by 30 degrees? Or is leaving it taped to bucket fine?
 
When using a converted chest freezer/fermentation chamber to cold crash, is it best to remove the temp prove that is taped to the side of the bucket and just set it loosely in the chamber? Well this method just turn the chamber into a fridge rather than running the freezer non-stop until 5 gallons of beer is cooled down by 30 degrees? Or is leaving it taped to bucket fine?

You could leave it on. The freezer will stop when the outside reaches your desired temp, meaning the inside of the carboy/bucket will still be warmer.
 
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