I actually use the vacuum tops a lot for wine so I will try them out. Point of using the refractometer is to pull small samples thou.
However, before yeast had fully dropped out, I was into 7 days of dry hop and didn't want to chance any off flavors from too long a dry hop. .
remember... IPA's were dry hopped for 5-7 months as they were in transit from England to India. Don't worry about a longer dry hop.
I liked it when I pressurized my fermentor with pure O2. I shook it though, so I don't know how much would get into suspension with doing it as you did. I bet it works like a charm though.
However, some helpful ideas for Sanke (you've probably considered some of these) You can do what I did and dry hop in the serving keg. Which, at room temperature, is good for 7 days or so. But at serving temps (or colder), the aroma is slower to develop. I remember a NG Crack'd Wheat clone that took a little over 2 weeks to reach full aroma...and it never got grassy.
For you, if you dry hop for 5 days, then crash cool, you probably have a bonus 2 days, maybe more if you're close to freezing, meaning a 9-11 day dry hop might be closer to the aroma you'd get from 7 days at 75˚.
Let us know as soon as you see activity via your pressure gauge. I can't wait for you to get as excited as I did the first time.
I have served from my fermentor before, but that was just to see if I could. I wouldn't recommend doing so due to that much yeast, but it worked just fine.Wort, do you serve from your fermenter? I can't remember and I'm not about to go through 107 pages.
Lager update, my Novemberfest is pouring right now and it's gorgeous. Brewed on 10/1 and poured on 10/3. It would have benefitted from a decoction mash for more body in the lager, but it is quaffable already. I love pressure fermentation.
I wouldn't bump up anything until you are a few days in. 10 psi is where I used to start and would stay there until the very end. Then I would let my pressure build to wanted volumes and leave it alone until it was done. Now I do bump my temperature up about 4 degrees after the majority of yeast has done its job as a insurance policy against diacetyl, as well as speeding up the finish.I woke up this morning to find a gentle hiss and ten pounds of pressure! I'm still trying to figure out how many valve turns equals how many psi, but somehow I ended up exactly where I wanted to be on my first shot. Thanks for your help everyone, and WortMonger...you're enthusiasm is infections
I know that the pressure will slow down yeast activity and that many people bump up the temperature to compensate. Certainly, the exact contours here will vary from system to system, but until I get a feel for things does anyone have a rule of thumb? If I'm starting out at 10 psi and gradually ramping up to 25, how much do I want to raise my temperatures to get a roughly equivalent fermentation?
I've got 10 gal of BM's Centennial Blonde that just finished up pressurized fermentation. It is split between 2 cornies with my spunding valve connected to a tee between the two liquid ports. I am thinking about using gelatin, but am undecided about how to go about it. The way I see it I can: 1) add the gelatin directly to these corny kegs, cold crash, then transfer to serving kegs. 2) transfer, add gelatin, cold crash, transfer again 3) or some other combination of steps. What metod would you guys suggest for ending up with a good balance of the least amount of sediment in the serving kegs with the least amount of work. Basically, I am just looking to have serving kegs that will not take too long to pour clear after transporting.
I've got 10 gal of BM's Centennial Blonde that just finished up pressurized fermentation. It is split between 2 cornies with my spunding valve connected to a tee between the two liquid ports. I am thinking about using gelatin, but am undecided about how to go about it. The way I see it I can: 1) add the gelatin directly to these corny kegs, cold crash, then transfer to serving kegs. 2) transfer, add gelatin, cold crash, transfer again 3) or some other combination of steps. What metod would you guys suggest for ending up with a good balance of the least amount of sediment in the serving kegs with the least amount of work. Basically, I am just looking to have serving kegs that will not take too long to pour clear after transporting.
Any chance you could do a complete and very detailed walk-thru of your filter setup. That is exactly as I do, only one keg at a time.Now I just cold crash and run through a 1micron filter to keep any sediment from passing through. I rigged a counter pressure setup pretty cheap and I love it. What's great with the brass needle valve is I can just put it in a bucket and any foam from the transfer just gets pushed out the gas ports into a bucket. I out a link to it in case you are interested.
On another note, my wife and I welcomed our third child and first son to the family yesterday and I toasted a pressure fermented Fest beer in his honor!
So, the gelatin forms a "jello" on the bottom of the serving kegs? After the first pint or so it makes a clean area around the pick-up tube and you have clean beer?1MadScientist said:I have used gelatin in buckets and conicals only and see that it's very thick and seems immobile at the bottom. What I would think is the best practice would be to put your gelatin solution in your empty SV and counter pressure transfer, wait 2-3 days and serve. I'm assuming here that the SV remains immobile too.
So, the gelatin forms a "jello" on the bottom of the serving kegs? After the first pint or so it makes a clean area around the pick-up tube and you have clean beer?
Another confusing thing... when you say SV you are meaning serving vessel (keg) right?