Dry Hop Riddle

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Champurrado

Champurrado

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My recipe calls for .75 Oz. Cascade Dry Hopped. I don't usually rack to a secondary for low gravity Ales. This one finishes fermenting in 4 weeks. At what point during fermentation do I throw in .75 oz. of Cascade pellets? I'm thinking after two weeks. That way the batch gets the benifit of two whole weeks of the hops.

Thanks.
 
I usually dry hop for only 5-7 days. Any longer and I start to notice a green plant kind of taste in the finish of the beer.
 
Mr. Jared, Mr. Tim:

Appreciate the advice. I'll go with 7 days and hope for some real Hops notes in this one.

Thanks.
 
I read somewhere that 7-10 days is ideal @ 70-72 degrees for dry-hopping. I don't secondary so I just wait 21 days, cold crash for 3 days to get most yeast out of suspension then bring temp back up and dry hop for 7-10 days, then cold crash again to get hops out of suspension then fine with gelatin for 3 days then rack into kegs for serving. I ferment in a fridge so the whole time the fermenter never moves and there is only one transfer.

Eastside
 
Eastside Brewer said:
I read somewhere that 7-10 days is ideal @ 70-72 degrees for dry-hopping. I don't secondary so I just wait 21 days, cold crash for 3 days to get most yeast out of suspension then bring temp back up and dry hop for 7-10 days, then cold crash again to get hops out of suspension then fine with gelatin for 3 days then rack into kegs for serving. I ferment in a fridge so the whole time the fermenter never moves and there is only one transfer.

Eastside
Click to expand...

Just curious, why do you crash cool twice? I wait for fermentation to complete, dry hop for a week, remove the hops, and then crash cool for a minimum of three days.
 
Another question: Do you use a hop mesh bag or stainless steel basket or do you just add the pellets right into the carboy?

Thanks.
 
"Just curious, why do you crash cool twice? I wait for fermentation to complete, dry hop for a week, remove the hops, and then crash cool for a minimum of three days."

The first crash cool is to get the yeast out of the way for dry hopping. You don't want any of the hop flavor/aroma from dry hopping sticking to the yeast cells since much of the yeast will settle out during the second crash cool and not make it into the final product.

You can add hops anyway you want. I throw them right in and use gelatin, then a paint strainer bag on the end of the auto siphon when racking to a keg. Just recently I ordered elongated tea balls from midwest so I can easily remove the hops from the carboy for multiple dry hop additions.
 
I just throw the hops in, and rack off of them when the dryhop is over. If I'm dryhopping in the keg, though, I use leaf hops and use a tea strainer or small hops bag. (I just don't want hops particles clogging up my diptube in my keg). In the carboy, though, I just throw them in.
 
dstar26t said:
"Just curious, why do you crash cool twice? I wait for fermentation to complete, dry hop for a week, remove the hops, and then crash cool for a minimum of three days."

The first crash cool is to get the yeast out of the way for dry hopping. You don't want any of the hop flavor/aroma from dry hopping sticking to the yeast cells since much of the yeast will settle out during the second crash cool and not make it into the final product.

You can add hops anyway you want. I throw them right in and use gelatin, then a paint strainer bag on the end of the auto siphon when racking to a keg. Just recently I ordered elongated tea balls from midwest so I can easily remove the hops from the carboy for multiple dry hop additions.
Click to expand...

Exactly! + 1 Brother.
 
OK, then I'm just throwing them in, no bags, strainers or rocket surgery, letting the pellets lurk for seven days or so then I'll rack into a bottling bucket and package.

Thanks.
 

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