Another Jockey Box completed....

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Yambor44

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Started with an OLD cooler


Added on 6 pass chill plate


Adding the fittings


Created some "jumpers" as I am only using 3 taps. So the beer goes into one entry, out the exit, into another entry and out another exit to the tap. This way it makes 2 passes thru the plate chiller.


The shanks ended up too short for this thicker walled cooler.


We added the middle shank and tap without the black cosmetic collar. Then held it at that point with a "C" clamp. Removed the tap/shank and then where able to add the cosmetic black collar do-hicky.
 








Ice in at 30 degrees


Outside completed


My question is this: I read that you need to add ice only with a chill plate and let the water drain constantly as you are cooling and ice ice as need. My water is going in at 80 degrees and coming out at 43. It was coming out at about 53 before I slowed the flow down from 30 psi to 10. Seems about the right speed when filling a mug. Should my water be getting colder than that with 2 passes?? Does anyone have any experience using ice water with a chill plate? My plate is 8 x 12 by about 3 inches thick. Weighs 22 pounds accoring to the UPS ship label. Heavy little sucker.
 
why the 6pass plate, and not a 3pass? you would have needed less fittings, and no jumpers (which would also make cleaning easier)
My guess is you either had this on hand, or it was still cheaper with all the fittings.

I would expect that you would want water in contact with it. if you constantly drain the water, you have less contact with the plate, as there will be air between the pieces of ice... but i have never used one of these.
 
why the 6pass plate, and not a 3pass?

It was either a a 2 tap or 3 tap. For the money I went with the 6 pass for three taps. After researching I thought that it would help to cool warmer beer (I live in Florida) if it made two passes. Maybe not.

you would have needed less fittings, and no jumpers (which would also make cleaning easier)
My guess is you either had this on hand, or it was still cheaper with all the fittings.

The fittings came with it. Cleaning will be the same with or without jumpers imo.

I would expect that you would want water in contact with it. if you constantly drain the water, you have less contact with the plate, as there will be air between the pieces of ice... but i have never used one of these.


GreenwoodRover wrote +1 to the Ice and Water. Keep the drain plugged. The thermodynamics and heat transfer to the plate will be much more efficient.

This was my thinking as well but the researching I did said the other way. I will add some water and get another reading.
 
If you want it colder.. I would slow the flow and/or add salt to the ice/water mix.


Hope it doesn't drop the temp too much...your beer could freeze in the line and stop flowing if you go too low.

I have a 50' Stainless Coil Jockey Box. I still keep my kegs cool...to prevent beer spoilage...and the Jockey Box just chills it that extra little bit...plus it's a nice presentation to have a faucet and Decorative Tap Handle.

I have a problem if I add ice before priming the lines with beer. A little bit of residual water, from flusing the coil, will freeze...and I have to pour room temp water over the coil to melt the blockage.
 
I have a two line system that I use to bring beer to parties, etc. I tend to throw around 10 lbs of ice to cover the plate and keep bottled beers cold in the cooler, I do not let the water drain.
I also add around 20 lbs of ice into a rubbermaid bucket holding the two 5 gal kegs. to keep at it at least a little chilled in case the kegs don't get floated. (Strange but it does happen at smaller get together's).
To be honest I have never been anal enough to measure the serving temperature, but it's a lot cooler than the 85F-90F outside temperature and the beer always taste great. Hope this helps, and that looks like a sweet set up, enjoy it.
 
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