Mash tun manifold.. My build.

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Optimal

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So I got around to building a manifold today, turned out decent and the wife was like "did you make this". She's useless when it comes to DIY... Just don't tell her I said that! Anyways, this is the second one I built. The first had the tubes running horizontal and just didn't look right. So I looked around on HBT and found a solution!

It's not complete, the cutting discs I have for my Dremal are ancient and very brittle. The last thing I want is pieces of disc in my face!

Any suggestions on how I could improve it, even if it requires rebuilding. I plan on fly sparging, and think this should work and doesn't promote channeling. But I am no expert! Also only the 3 center vertical pieces will be slotted.

Installed
img00026ud.jpg


Going to put a 1/2"x3/8"x1/2" "T" and run a piece of hose from the barb to the "T".
img00027h.jpg


P.S Thanks to whoever gave me the idea. Sorry I don't remember who it was.
 
I'd say you just about hit perfection with this one.

I was about to say don't put holes in the tubes against the sides but see you already have that covered.

The only thing I would change would be to widen spacing on the inner three. As it is now, you'll have most if the draining taking place in the center. Any extracted wort on the far left or right will have to travel further than any near the middle. Those inner three should divide it, so to speak, by thirds.

But excellent build and I love the siphon tube. When I rebuild mine I'll definately be looking at yours!
 
Nice! Is it disassemblable (is that even a word)? If not, how are you going to wash the inside? Just a question, as I'm working on making a new one for my tun.
 
I might give this a try, just one row of holes on the bottom? Or should I just go with what I think is right and add a bunch?

If you have a jig saw cutting slots isn't too much work. Build a little wooden jig out of scrap to hold the copper and stop the guard on the saw at the desired depth. Just another option I'm throwing out there.
 
If you're fly sparging you should leave the manifold about 1-2" from the cooler walls. As is now, you may get channeling along the cooler walls.

I do like the center drain design. That's how mine is made and it lauter very well.
 
you're too close to the walls. Read www.howtobrew.com and see how they recommend spacing it off the wall to prevent channeling down the smooth sides.


I was thinking that, but because I'm not using the outer tubing to pull wort from just the inner ones that it wouldn't be a huge issue. But it if turns out to be I've got one sexy batch sparge manifold, or the makings of a fly sparge!
 
Its a nice build, but a waste of material to me. Why use all that copper in your manifold that will not be sucking up wort at all(speaking to the amount of copper on the walls of your cooler) All it does is prevent the manifold from moving around, which its unlikely to do with 10-20 lbs of grain on it anyway.
 
Well after lots more reading, thinking, a pot of coffee, and some other extra curricular activities here it is.

I'm going to use the old one as the fly sparge manifold, this one is the mash tun manifold.
img00029n.jpg
 
You can send me the first one and I'll try it out for you!:D

Actually, I made mine out of cpvc and made the 4 long runs as my pickups.
I cut slits with a hack saw every 1/2 inch on both sides of the pipe, staggering the layout. I keep the cut slots vertical.

I have never had a stuck sparge or channeling. I also get 83%+- efficiency.

I also noticed that I have to lauter less with the cuts as compared to the drilled holes.

Good luck and keep brewing

Bull
 
I dont use a cooler but I would have to think the center tubes would be fine for the pick up, I use kegs with a single 1/2 inch pickup in the center but its the same principle correct ?

Pat
 
All looking good.. I have always drilled holes as well rather than slits.. I think it looks better and cleaner.. never had a issue with any of my manifolds and they are all copper.
 
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